• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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2013 TE310 hot starting

Still Riding

Husqvarna
My TE310 starts immediately when cold, but when hot i have to wait 1 or 2 minutes and then hit the e button, whereupon she fires up immediately.
if i hit the e button immediately after stopping, the starter cranks the motor easily, but it doesn't fire.
i have done all the mods and the dealer has reflashed the ecu.
Apart from this one issue, the bike is perfect, goes like a rocket and handles technical stuff beautifully.
it is just embarrassing when riding with KTM friends to see them hit the e button and roar away, while i have to wait...........
Has anyone else had this problem?
 
My TE310 starts immediately when cold, but when hot i have to wait 1 or 2 minutes and then hit the e button, whereupon she fires up immediately.
if i hit the e button immediately after stopping, the starter cranks the motor easily, but it doesn't fire.
i have done all the mods and the dealer has reflashed the ecu.
Apart from this one issue, the bike is perfect, goes like a rocket and handles technical stuff beautifully.
it is just embarrassing when riding with KTM friends to see them hit the e button and roar away, while i have to wait...........
Has anyone else had this problem?

Yep same problem and there are a few threads discussing the issue on here.

1st. First thing I am going to check is valve clearances (esp. exhaust valve)
2nd. Ring and worm starter gears (replaced under recall/warranty on many 2013 310's)
3rd. Starter motor

How many miles/kms do you have on the bike now and when was the last time the valve clearances were checked?

Does it start OK hot with the kick starter? (mine does)
 
I will replace the temp sensor right away as it is cheap (I think).
The bike does start with the kick start easily, unless I have been riding it hard.
Then it can take 20 kicks.
The bike has done 900kms or 562 miles. Mostly hardish enduro.
I got it in June.
All 4 valves are in spec.
The dealer says he doesn't know what to do.
 
What was ecu re-flashed with? Map 2 or 3. I found map 3 rich at low throttle settings 5-15%. I'd replace temp sensor in any regard as possible culprit. I have since installed a pcv with auto tune. Has been invaluable as a tool to verify current fueling and correct it without myriad stabs at fixes that don't quite solve the issue. Have not had a hot start issue in over a year.

The following map is the modifications to my fueling made by autontune based upon Map 3, and this is just for Sea Level. If running high elevations the map needs more fuel trims...

final_sea_level.JPG


From 6,000 ft and up (for me to 13,500). this is my final map (note these are adjustments in percentages to fueling across the rpms based upon Map 3)...

final_high_el_fullmap-jpg.46446
 
Thanks Johnrg. I have been thinking of using PCV. I will try the temp sensor and then PCV with auto tune. I think its the way to go.
 
If you run the stock pipe with cat removed and have Map 3 flashed you can use these tables as adjustments on a PCV without use of Autotune. Autotune will require removal of 12mm bung and replacement with the supplied 18mm in stock position. It basically doubles the cost of the PCV, so can save you that. Can also provide the maps if you need them. It is nice to have for a bike you plan on owning long term or may want to add a pipe to as you can then tune as necessary w/o headaches. Anyone need one for a '13/'14 speak with Chris Kelly at Dynojet.
 
Johnrg i am much obliged. i have had sleepless nights over this bike. if you can provide the maps it would be great. i am going to buy PCV and it would be wonderful to save on Autotune. Thank you!
 
I don't know if this will be of any help, but anyways it is just more info for you to tackle your problem....

My dealer installed the "Leo Vince" map in my ECU. (2014 TE310R) Bike runs awesome! I did encounter a problem with hot starting when I turned the idle speed down too much. So obviously user error and fixed now just by setting the idle speed back to stock....
 
I just got mine back from dealer , they replaced the starter motor and temp sensor , then said your not supposed to use the e start when the motor is hot said ur supposed to kick it , then they showed me in the manual where it says just that , do not use starter when engine is hot , guess I will be kicking.
 
Can you post a screen shot of the page in the manual or list the page. I can't find that. Some dealers say to do it just as a workaround as I believe it will circumvent the temp sensor but..... I have never ever heard of any engine with electric start where you are told to not use it. Mine is used on most rides whenever a group stops for a moment and restarts. In fact I've hardly kicked it in 2,000 miles.
 
It's in that paper manual they give you with the bike , page 11 . I have tried a million times to post pictures and so on and no luck .
 
Hmmm... Strange. Not in my printed manual or thumb drive manual or service manual. Maybe just in the '12 docs.
 
Possible , it's actually in bold dark print DO NOT USE STARTER , must have read right past it because I don't understand why you would put on a e start if u can only use it on cold starts .
 
My experience was (and this is with open map 3) the bike is rich. PCV sorted that with Autotune. Map 2 may be better if otherwise stock but the way I am set now with my own maps, I start cold and start hot on the button. Never an issue and done rides with a lot of folks here where we stopped and restarted without an issue with my bike. Others did but not me. When I do kick the bike (just for laughs), takes 3 kicks usually. I have over 3500 miles now and just returned from another trip with no issues whatsoever. Some ZipTy Coolant has been great. No fan kicking on and no pressure to cause any issues. I run the thermostat and was doing cold starts in Bend in 38 degree temps. That bit of using thin 0-40 oil for initial cold starts is helped maybe with the thermostat allowing faster warm ups. Maybe not so much an issue in warm climates all the time but no issues with stock setup on my bike. Good coolant should be all you need. Lose the thermostat and make sure to warm it up before revving it out. Got to say the proof is in the pudding. Knock on wood my bike runs like a top.
 
I find I have no issues with the bike in normal enduro motocross/road type riding.
It is when I first gear single track where the speed is never over a slow jogging speed, and then theres a hill climb bike revving with no airflow other than fan.
This is the only time I have issues.

I will ditch the old coolant for higher quality stuff and ditch the thermostat always 30ºC = 86ºF at high humidity here b4 the next ride.

I will ditch the battery and ordered a lithium High CCA and today ordered another temp sensor.
Yet to check Valve Clearance
I want to avoid engine maps at $5-600usd for ecu programming so will try everything else first I guess.
 
I hear you... I went step by step isolating and solving issues until all was good. The most troubling was the decompressor issue, but that was not simply a hot start thing but all around clicking and locked up kickstarter. For me the hot start initially went away in general riding situations with the temp sensor replacement. If you are running Map 2 or stock TXC jetting is probably fine. The PCV + Autotune showed me Map 3 rich on the bottom and it cured my high elevation hot starting issues.
 
I just got mine back from dealer , they replaced the starter motor and temp sensor , then said your not supposed to use the e start when the motor is hot said ur supposed to kick it , then they showed me in the manual where it says just that , do not use starter when engine is hot , guess I will be kicking.


The manual is not talking about using the e-start when the motor is hot. The manual is telling you not to use the "(cold) start" lever when the motor is warm.
That being said, the e-start on these motors is fragile and I kick my x-lites unless I stall in a section and I use the E-start to light it back up quick.
 
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