2013 TXC 310 oil change

[Mike Rotella]

Is there a link or post on how to change the oil on a new TXC310R? And where can I get a manual on this bike? Thanks Guys.

 

[Rob1965]

Mike, did you figure it out or find a link? I just purchased one yesterday and am wondering the same.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[Mike Rotella]

did you get the flash drive owners manual that comes with the bike? Its in there. I finally got mine working and changing the oil in this bike is definitely a pita. Why is it so hard to put a drain plug and an oil fill on a dirt bike?

 

[Rob1965]

I did, and I went to the dealer and he said on the 2013, don't worry about the hoses, just use the drain plug at the bottom of the engine which is what I will do when I change. Have you had any problems with your starter assuming you have a 2013 txc 310? Thanks,
Rob

 

[Mike Rotella]

Theres a screen in that lower hose. I say take it out so the hose doesnt get clogged. It was definitely loaded with crap on the first oil change, but if it wasnt there im sure the paper filter would filter the oil just fine.

 

[DG Harv Serv]

Theres a screen in that lower hose. I say take it out so the hose doesnt get clogged. It was definitely loaded with crap on the first oil change, but if it wasnt there im sure the paper filter would filter the oil just fine.

I guess / hope you are joking about removing the Screen !

 

[Tinken]

I would recommend cleaning the screen filter and replacing in case more material is dislodged later in the life of the motorcycle. There is also a stainless steel oil filter available which replaces the paper main filter. This increases the flow of oil to your engine 7 to 1 over the oem paper element. Flow was a major obstacle when we raced the 310's and I am happy to see that Husqvarna increased the volume of oil going to the head on the MY13's.

 

[MikeB]

I would recommend cleaning the screen filter and replacing in case more material is dislodged later in the life of the motorcycle. There is also a stainless steel oil filter available which replaces the paper main filter. This increases the flow of oil to your engine 7 to 1 over the oem paper element. Flow was a major obstacle when we raced the 310's and I am happy to see that Husqvarna increased the volume of oil going to the head on the MY13's.

Hmm - glad I decided to run the Honda stainless filter almost from the beginning. (The early CRF450R filter fit my 2012 310 just fine)

 

[DG Harv Serv]

I would recommend cleaning the screen filter and replacing in case more material is dislodged later in the life of the motorcycle. There is also a stainless steel oil filter available which replaces the paper main filter. This increases the flow of oil to your engine 7 to 1 over the oem paper element. Flow was a major obstacle when we raced the 310's and I am happy to see that Husqvarna increased the volume of oil going to the head on the MY13's.

A stainless steel oil filter increases the flow by 7 times ??? How does it do that, and offers the same level of Filtration ?

Sorry but I dont see it ! Why dont manufacturers use these "miriacle" filters standard if they can do that ?

I have raced 3 x 310s (a 2011,12 & now 13) and had zero problems with using the OEM Filter.

 

[Tinken]

You can use the oem filter, I never said anything was wrong with that. But SS filters will outflow the oem filter 7 to 1. On this oil filter, a one inch square of the mesh media will flow 1.9 gallons of cold 90 weight gear oil per minute at only 1 psi pump pressure @68°F. Manufactures typically don't use these because they are expensive and they want to sell parts.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/oil-filters-for-the-449-511s.29284/#post-263423
PC116 - Stainless Steel, Reusable Oil Filter $19.99

From PC:

PC116 - Stainless Steel, Reusable Oil Filter

Honda
CRF 450 R/X 02-12, CRF 250 R/X 04-12
CRF 150 R 07-12, TRX 450 R 04-12
Husqvarna
E/TC/TXC 250 09-12
Superior Filtration:
This should be the last oil filter you will ever buy! Made from laser cut, medical grade, 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth, this filter provides 200% more filter area in many cases. Our stainless filter catches items down to 35 microns, which is about 3 times better than most good paper or brass filters. Unlike glued paper filters, the FLO Oil Filter pleat seam is welded and able to withstand up to 600 degrees.
Consistent flow under all conditions:
This filter maintains consistent flow under all conditions including extreme heat, the presence of water, and cold start ups where paper filters can flow so poorly that they often cause the bypass valve to open and allow unfiltered oil to enter your engine!
This high tech filter technology is widely used in all types of auto racing including NASCAR, Indy type cars, Formula 1 and in the Aerospace industry where filtration is of the utmost importance.
In addition to all the other benefits, our filter helps keep the land fills free of old used filters.
Cleaning Instructions:
Note the original filter position to ensure correct installation. Clean filter at each oil change with solvent, contact cleaner, kerosene, or any other degreasing agent; even common dish soap. Blow air through the filter from the inside out to remove any small particles or cleaning agent from the screen. Lube rubber parts with clean oil before installation.

Hope this answers your questions.

 

[Mike-AK]

Anybody else running these reusable filters instead of paper? I'm intrigued and would like to hear more. Thanks.

 

[Tinken]

I have always used stainless steel oil filters in my KTM race bikes, but I used paper for my 511 because I couldn't justify spending $70 for one from Scott's performance products.

Then I had a nice long conversation with PC racing and found a KTM SS filter to fit my 511 for $22. It had an indent in one end, so I purchased a low cost shim in the form of a high temperature neodymium magnet that is 3/4" by 1/4", which I place in the end of the filter prior to attaching the filter cover. This is an eighteen pound pull magnet which collects all magnetic debris which pass by. Not only do I run zero weight oil, but combined with the high flow ss filter, my engine is nearly at full flow from start up.

Cleaning is easy. I use a wooden dowel that I push into one end. This seals the hole from the back side. I spray off the filter with cheap brake cleaner first, then swirl the filter around in a bucket of hot soapy water, holding onto the wooden dowel as a handle. Dunk it in another bucket to rinse, then remove the dowel and flow cold water through from the backside to remove any residual particles. Blow dry with some air and back into the bike it goes.

 

[Tinken]

Paper/fiber and mesh filters take a fundamentally different approach to filtering. Mesh filters filter down to a certain size, and for practical purposes, no smaller than that. They do, however, only require a single pass to filter to that level. They work by simply having a very strictly controlled mesh size, through which a spherical object larger than that size cannot pass. They are rated in "absolute" terms, as with this filter (35μm "Absolute"). This rating tells you that nothing larger than 35μm (35 microns) will pass through it. (1 micron, or micrometer more correctly, is 1/1,000,000 of a meter, or 0.001 mm, or 0.000039")

Mesh filters are able to achieve this level of filtration with remarkably low resistance to fluid flow as well, which in the case of this filter means that oil will flow freely at all temperatures such as cold starts, and there will be no appreciable pressure loss across the filter.

"Paper" filters are different. They can stop even finer debris than mesh filters, but they also allow some larger debris to pass. They filter somewhat the same way a thick shrub catches objects thrown into it. Most tennis balls get stuck, but not all. An occasional golf ball gets caught, but an occasional soccer ball passes through to balance that out.

The random arrangement and density of the fibers in the element create odd and irregular gaps through which debris can pass. This creates little crotches of sorts that enable the filter to catch extremely small debris, but also creates gaps that allow it to pass ridiculously large material at other times. The paper element media is also three dimensional to a degree, where as mesh is essentially two dimensional; if something passes through one opening in the mesh, it's through, which isn't necessarily the case with fiber media.

Fiber, or paper, filters can stop debris as fine as 20 microns, or even less. But, they won't stop it all on the first pass. Worse yet, they won't stop all of the debris even as large as 90 microns or more on the first pass, and some particles occasionally come free of the filter to re-enter the oil stream. They are usually considered multi-pass filters, which carries the expectation that the same debris will pass through the system multiple times before being intercepted. They will be given "Beta" ratings like "80/25", which tells you that it will stop 80% of all 25 micron particles on the first pass. However, they will rarely publish the fact that they may very well also test at 85/35 or 85/40, and certainly will not mention that they tested at only 95/60 (95% of 60 micron debris).

Additionally, paper filters resist oil flow, particularly when cold, a great deal more than does mesh, and cold starts often cause a paper filter to bypass (bypass on the 449 is after the filter so in this event a cold start will tend to bottleneck or clog). In this filter, a one inch square of the mesh media they use will flow 1.9 gallons of cold 90 weight gear oil per minute at only 1 psi pump pressure (68 degrees F). For example, a filter with similar size to this one, which contains 15 sq/in of mesh, means that the media itself has the ability to flow over 28 GPM of cold 90 weight oil. That figure is also far beyond the delivery capabilities of the engine oil pump in any case. That basically means that unless you run half a shop rag through your engine, this filter will never bottleneck or clog under any conceivable circumstance, and will filter at full capacity regardless of temperature, even at 600°F. This is often not the case with "paper" filters, which commonly bottleneck or drop the flow way down during the warm-up operation.

So, it isn't a black and white, indisputable, one's better than the other kind of choice, but in my opinion, the 35 micron "absolute" stainless mesh is the way to go.

For more information on stainless steel filters, please visit K&P engineering:
http://www.kandpengineering.com/faq.shtml
http://www.kandpengineering.com/cleaning.shtml

How does this type of filtration compare to paper oil filters?

We use ASTMF316 testing procedures which eliminate many of the user variables found in the SAE procedures. Basically, the filter media is pressurized from one side, and when the media starts passing particles, that is the micron rating. We sent filter media from several common brands of paper filters to the lab to be run through the ASTM test. We sent the media to the lab with no names, just numbers for identification so they wouldn't have any idea what brand filter they were testing. The results for the paper filters ranged from 48 microns for the best filter to over 300 microns for the worst filter. Our tests were right in line with other testing results we have researched that have paper media filters passing particles anywhere between 50 and 90 microns. What does this mean? Paper filters are rated on averages, percentages of efficiency (also known as beta ratios) and multiple passes, so a 10 micron rated paper filter (as advertised on the packaging) may be letting particles 50 microns and larger through. The medical grade stainless steel cloth that we use is consistent across the entire media surface and is rated at 35 microns, meaning nothing larger than 35 microns should pass through the material. The bottom line is we meet or exceed the filtration performance of OEM filters, eliminating any warranty issues. - K&P ​

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/hairy-oil-filter-what-is-this-stuff.25746/

 

[Mike-AK]

Do you know if you can use a magnet on the filter for the TE310? If not, does ZipTy make (or plan to make) a oil filter cover for the TE/TXC 310 with a magnet built in?

 

[DG Harv Serv]

I dont see anywhere above where it says "This increases the flow of oil to your engine 7 to 1 over the oem paper element."

It says 7 times more oil "dripped" through a 1" square, thats different to "increasing oil flow". Also 90w Gear Oil at 1 psi is not really relevent to your engine , is it ?

"Manufactures typically don't use these because they are expensive and they want to sell parts." Sorry dont agree , you show them @$19.99 thats hardly cost prohibative over the cost of the engine. If they are so good all OEMs would use them as they would improve things so much they would never have a warranty claim, hence save money . Also they would sugest you cant clean them and tell you to replace at each service , again making more money !

"I used paper for my 511 because I couldn't justify spending $70 for one" I would have thought with all the so called "benefits" $70 would be a bargain !

I guess lets agree to disagree, I will stick to paper, and trust the thousands of $s spent on R&D at factories like Husky,KTM,Honda etc...

 

[Tinken]

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/44/54/174/735/9571/26098/Motion-Pro-Oil-Filter-Magnet

 

[DG Harv Serv]

As a side note to above, here in the UK we get a 2 year warranty on Huskies.

One condition of this is, we have to use OEM Oil Filters. Just a warning to others .

 

[Tinken]

I guess lets agree to disagree, I will stick to paper, and trust the thousands of $s spent on R&D at factories like Husky,KTM,Honda etc...

If you honestly trusted $$ spent on R&D at factories like Husky, then you wouldn't be running a different brand, nor higher than recommended oil in your motorcycle. But I will agree that you wish to stick to your opinions no matter what facts or opinions anyone else has, not even a former Husqvarna racing team. In the end, that is your absolute choice and I respect that. But please respect that others on this forum may not share the same opinion as yours.

I do not sell oil filters, nor have any monetary gain from offering this information. I am only doing so to help others.

 

[DG Harv Serv]

"If you honestly trusted $$ spent on R&D at factories like Husky, then you wouldn't be running a different brand" ??? I dont run a different brand ???

As for Oil, I use what was recomended by my Dealer / Importer, who with all do respect has been dealing with Husky, and Cagiva before that for an age !

You are no different to me , re opinions ! Thats why I said lets agree to disagree !

I have a degree in Mechanical and Fluid Power Engineering so know a little about Oil Flow Also a Husky owner since 1987 .

I posted about Warranty to help others !

A "former racing team" doesnt make your views correct , neither does long posts "Googled" and "Pasted" ! sometimes I agree with what you say , but my original posted was regarding the Oil Mesh Screen, you turned it into Filters, you may not sell them, but there is often a conflict of interest on this site !

I will try again "Lets agree to disagree" !

 

[Tinken]

I have a degree in Mechanical and Fluid Power Engineering so know a little about Oil Flow

Maybe you should get your money back?