2013 TXC 310 oil change

[Rearwheelin]

I have worked in the oilfields for the last 7.5 years starring at the flow lines that go up and down the hills , pulling the condensate out of the gas lines so the wells keep producing gas , working with operators , cleaning up messes from busted lines and blown stuffing boxes , pulling down tanks at facilities before they run over .... Does this give me a degree in Mechanical and Fluid Power Engineering ?? I earned great money while doing it but now I deliver chemicals to make the patch run

 

[Mike Rotella]

I guess / hope you are joking about removing the Screen !

LOL. not really. What does that screen catch that the paper filter doesn't. Are there two separate oil circuits?

 

[MikeB]

Not sure why there would be any dispute that metal filters out-perform paper filters? Anyone can 'google' the internet and find a ton of information on the subject that supports this (and none, to my knowledge which disputes it). If paper filters do a 'good enough' job for your use then that's fine .. but 1 $20 filter which filters as good or better than a bunch of paper filters? ... I'm in. And, as I said, maybe that's part of the reason my 310 has 100 very hard hours on it with 0 problems.

 

[Tinken]

LOL. not really. What does that screen catch that the paper filter doesn't. Are there two separate oil circuits?

I assume you are talking about the oil return line from the oil breather on the frame? If so, you can remove the screen, I don't have a screen on mine. Ty once told me that there was loose debris up in the frame, so I would probably run it for a little while if I had one.

 

[Tinken]

I remember changing my oil the first time (30 miles) and the oil looked like metallic paint with all these tine flakes of metal. As a reference, the human eye can detect down to 40 microns, although I know my old eyes wont. So this means that either my original husky filter was either letting this debris pass through, or it had became clogged and this metal was running out the bypass.

The SS filters are "absolute", so anything larger than 35 microns does not pass through. To give you an example, super fine powdery silt is 125 microns. Unlike an automobile, we change our oil out often and that is how we filter out finer grade debris. Fiber filters will filter finer than 35 microns, but they also let debris as large as 300 microns pass. They do this because they are rated in percentages of particles they will catch, they are not an "absolute" filter like stainless steel. It's a trade, slightly less fine grade capture for a massive increase in flow. If we were keeping oil in our bikes for 8000 miles as recommended by Honda in some of their street bikes, I would be inclined to use paper. But because I change my oil in 300 to 500 miles, I would prefer the increased flow at the small sacrifice that a I am not capturing a few finer particles.

The main advantage to SS filters is their outstanding flow. Because flow is increased, lubrication, cooling and horsepower is also increased. I added a link below to K&P engineering. This company makes the SS filters for Scotts performance products as well as the custom oil filters we used in our race bikes.

After 8000 hard race miles on our KTM, engine still ran perfectly with it's SS filter.

http://www.kandpengineering.com/technicalhighlights.shtml

 

[Johnrg]

For over 30 years AMSoil has been selling oil filters and in the early days they filtered down to a much finer particulate than conventional. While the SS filters mentioned filter to an absolute 35 microns, AMSoil claims their filters filters go beyond to 15 microns w/ filtering efficiency of 98.7 percent. So what's better (granted we don't have amsoil filters for the Husky but just for discussion)?

As far as the screen in the breather return I feel the same way Ty was quoted above... It filters debris from the frame. When I pulled it, it hardly seemed well sealed and I wondered how it could be a great filter pre-oil pump, etc... Always seemed just a debris catcher and why one could, at least on the '13's do some oil changes by the sump plug and maybe chaeck that debris screen every other change. I have to assume there might be black paint chips and uncoated metal shavings and eventually rust in there from the steel frame but it did not appear as a main oil pickup screen, wasn't affecting oil pickup from the sump, etc... though I may be wrong.

 

[Tinken]

The Amsoil filters will filter a percentage of finer debris at the cost of flow. Not sure if Amsoil sells a filter that fits the 250/310 or how much it costs? The finer the paper filter, the higher the cost of flow per unit area. The 250/310s run extremely hot, even more so than the 449/511s and need the extra flow of oil. When racing these models, we even added custom oil pumps which increased the oil flow.

I'm curious if we could buy paper air filters for our motorcycles, would we just buy a new one every time it needed one, or would we wash the reusable one and put it back?

 

[Johnrg]

I'm curious if we could buy paper air filters for our motorcycles, would we just buy a new one every time it needed one, or would we wash the reusable one and put it back?

AMSoil doesn't make one for the bikes from what I can tell. Mostly was just curious as to what level of filtration was optimum.

As far as Air Filters? I ran stacks on my Yoshima 400f and GPz. I did put some mesh and nylon stockings over once for larger bugs and debris. When I ran my GPz later on the street if I noted sand or debris, I'de hit the kill switch ;-)

Today as far as replacement filters, I tend to go by what the experts recommend. I'm no expert so go with the flow. I have a few paper oil filters for the 310 and will use them for now. The SS are compelling but wonder what would be optimuum for micron filtration and flow. Air filters for street bikes I tended to just replace the stock pleated as needed and at times a K&N. I did try UNI Pods once on my Yoshima but the engine gagged from too restrictive flow and could not jet to suit (in the 70's). Then again they were stock carbs, bored out and so required the stacks alone. I am using the Twin Airs on the Husky and TA bio cleaner and oil.

 

[DG Harv Serv]

Maybe lets just throw away all Filters, Screens etc... Flow rate would be great ! (I asked "Ty" and he said it will be OK !)

By the way Tincan, education is / was free here, so cost me nothing

Rearwheel, sorry, dont understand your point, somebody studied for a qualification, is that a problem ?

I think this is getting rather silly !

Not for the first time, I find myself thinking why bother to have an opinion, I will just agree with what the "CH Sponsors" say, they must be right , always....

 

[Mike-AK]

From what I have read, the wear particles of greatest concern are between 2 and 25 microns in diameter. Wouldn't a 35 micron absolute filter let all of those critical wear particles pass through to harm bearing surfaces in the engine?

 

[Tinken]

Yes, that is correct. A stainless steel filter will pass <35 micron particles. A paper filter will also pass <35 micron particles, in fact it will also pass greater than 35 micron particles as high as 300 microns. Paper filters pass in percentages. The trade off is flow.

 

[Mike-AK]

Yes, that is correct. A stainless steel filter will pass <35 micron particles. A paper filter will also pass <35 micron particles, in fact it will also pass greater than 35 micron particles as high as 300 microns. Paper filters pass in percentages. The trade off is flow.

Tinken, sorry to bother you with so many questions, but you appear to have a working knowledge of things I have questions about. My understanding of the filtration system on the TE310 is that the pump forces oil into the filter housing, through the outside of the filter, into the inside of the filter and out the oil line that feeds the head, with primary filtered oil only being supplied to the head, correct? The opening on the back side of the filter only comes into play if the bypass valve opens, correct? If that is the case, if I install a stainless mesh filter, I should be able to use a magnet on the back side of the filter that butts up agains the wave washer as long as there is enough clearance remaining to reinstall the filter housing cover, correct? Has ZipTy run this setup on a 310 before? Thanks.

 

[Tinken]

It's no bother Mike, I'm here for you guys. Oil flows up through the exterior tube as well as back into the engine for the main bearings, etc. I actually have images of all the oil galleries for the 250/310 and the 449/511 at work. Zipty normally makes a whole new billet cover with a magnet pressed into it. I will look to see if we have one that fits the 2012's and I am pretty sure we have a oil fill plug that is magnetized. I made a ridiculously large magnetic drain plug for a 511 with a 52lb magnet on it which will pull metallic particles out of the entire bath.

I believe this part: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/44/54/174/735/9571/26098/Motion-Pro-Oil-Filter-Magnet fits in front of the filter and replaces the Belleville(8) spring washer, I will check when I get back to Zipty.

 

[Mike-AK]

It's no bother Mike, I'm here for you guys. Oil flows up through the exterior tube as well as back into the engine for the main bearings, etc. I actually have images of all the oil galleries for the 250/310 and the 449/511 at work. Zipty normally makes a whole new billet cover with a magnet pressed into it. I will look to see if we have one that fits the 2012's and I am pretty sure we have a oil fill plug that is magnetized. I made a ridiculously large magnetic drain plug for a 511 with a 52lb magnet on it which will pull metallic particles out of the entire bath.

I believe this part: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/44/54/174/735/9571/26098/Motion-Pro-Oil-Filter-Magnet fits in front of the filter and replaces the Belleville spring washer, I will check when I get back to Zipty.

Thanks.

 

[Stoye82]

I also have a 12 te310 and am stuck in the same situation... I gonna go ahead and order the magnet from Rocky Mountain also considering going to a SS filter .... Keep the good info comin tinken... Much appreciated

 

[Mike Rotella]

How can you clean EVERY piece of trash from a stainless fillter? Seems impossible to me.

 

[Mike-AK]

How can you clean EVERY piece of trash from a stainless fillter? Seems impossible to me.

Same way you can't remove it all from the sump by draining the oil. From what I see in the classifieds, should not be a problem for you for much longer. I hear they make SS filters for KTM's too...

 

[Mike Rotella]

LOL, Going back to Honda to be honest, and I'm using paper filters that I can buy right around the corner. And I dont need to search for two weeks to find the tools to remove the front tire, and I dont need to fight with some retarded oil line at the bottom of the engine, and I dont need to listen to how the dealer is selling them for $2500 off sticker cause they're going under.

 

[Mike Rotella]

And I get every piece of trash when I throw my paper filter in the garbage.

 

[Mike-AK]

Honda's are nice bikes. You gonna get a 450?