• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250 CR clutch

squid on a 300

squid on a 300

Husqvarna
AA Class
79 250 CR. Clutch was like a light switch. Engaged and disengaged almost at the lever being all the way out. Not progressive couldn't slip it.

Today I replaced the fiber plates and drive plates (steel) I got from HVA. Pulled the actuator arm from the case and it looked ok ( very small wear mark that I could barely feel with my finger nail ).

Pressure plate has a slight wear groove.

Tightened pressure plate spring bolts to 10nm.

Set the actuator arm free play at 2mm, set the clutch lever free play at about the same also.
Filled with Spectro 80w gear oil.

It's better but still engages and disengages way out on the lever (stock magura lever and perch) but better than before.
Also does not clunk into gear anymore.

Springs? The ones in it look like they have gold or yellow paint on them?

Cable has very low hours on it.

Thoughts on what I may be missing?
 
Check for ridges on the sides of the clutch basket where the plates contact. Also, check for flatness of the pressure plate - not the easiest to do, but since you have new drive plates that you know are not warped, mark one with a marker pen or machinist dye and rub it against the pressure plate.

The spring bolts torques to 10Nm vs 5Nm should not be of any consequence. If it does make a difference let us know.
 
Also make sure the clutch cable is properly lubed and has no sharp bends in it and just for testing remove all the zip ties that are tying it down to the frame. With the cable now loose not tied down check the lever action again and see if is smoother and easier. If it is then you know where the problem is.

Your clutch springs a probably have yellow paint.
 
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