• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

310 oil return

Currently you must remove the drain back hose before adding oil. The new kit allows you to add oil without removing the hose.


I looked on the website and could not see the new kit, unless the change is not noticeable and it looks like the old kit. What's the difference, and can the old kits be upgraded?
 
I looked on the website and could not see the new kit, unless the change is not noticeable and it looks like the old kit. What's the difference, and can the old kits be upgraded?
No new kit because it is still being machined/anodized. I will work with 1st generation customers to upgrade their kits at a discounted price if they wish.
 
Originally I thought venting the oil hose into the intake was a bad design solely for emissions, but if you ever went through deep water the hose is protected from sucking up dirt and water into the motor. At least the intake is sealed and protected and in effect becomes a closed system.


Yeah....the old drain plug and breather to airbox worked okay, but you would loose some oil out the breather at hi-rpm riding.
You had to watch the oil level.
 
Keen for the new kit, I didn't get a reply for my order for the old kit and didnt end up chasing it up so I ended up making my own :P

My bike has a screen filter on the fitting that screws into the frame backbone. So the oil returning into the engine via the frame backbone does through a filter before getting to the oil pump, on my bike anyway :P
 
Keen for the new kit, I didn't get a reply for my order for the old kit and didnt end up chasing it up so I ended up making my own :P

My bike has a screen filter on the fitting that screws into the frame backbone. So the oil returning into the engine via the frame backbone does through a filter before getting to the oil pump, on my bike anyway :P

No it doesn't. The oil pump sucks from inside that screen (as if it were a straw), so the oil that is on the outside of the screen gets strained and then it goes to the oil pump. The stuff coming from the backbone goes straight through, not getting strained in the process.
 
No it doesn't. The oil pump sucks from inside that screen (as if it were a straw), so the oil that is on the outside of the screen gets strained and then it goes to the oil pump. The stuff coming from the backbone goes straight through, not getting strained in the process.

Sounds like it sucks all around.
 
I'm totally in for the upgrade.

I appreciate all the work you folks put into making these parts. The market can't be that large and since all the models are EOL, most companies would abandon products for them immediately.

I'm happy to support my not very local aftermarket parts manufacturer. :banana:
 
Hey guys!
I`m not quite understanding this!
Why cant the rear drain with hose just be blanked off and only drain oil from the bottom plug on the 2013 TXC310?
Every 5th or so oil change the blank can be removed and the long metal filter can be removed and cleaned.
 
No it doesn't. The oil pump sucks from inside that screen (as if it were a straw), so the oil that is on the outside of the screen gets strained and then it goes to the oil pump. The stuff coming from the backbone goes straight through, not getting strained in the process.


As stated,
On my bike there is a screen attached to the barb on the frame backbone catch tank, it filters the oil before running into the tube originally connected to the drain plug barb.
 
Hey guys!
I`m not quite understanding this!
Why cant the rear drain with hose just be blanked off and only drain oil from the bottom plug on the 2013 TXC310?
Every 5th or so oil change the blank can be removed and the long metal filter can be removed and cleaned.


You could do that, but how would the oil from the collector tank in the backbone get back to the engine? It would eventually just fill up the hose, then possibly even the catch tank.
 
As stated,
On my bike there is a screen attached to the barb on the frame backbone catch tank, it filters the oil before running into the tube originally connected to the drain plug barb.

OK gotcha! I haven't checked mine up there on the frame backbone yet, so I can't comment....
 
So, last night I tried to get this barb out to check if there is a screen there and to clean it if needed. I couldn't! I felt I was going to strip the bolt. Any suggestions? It looks like it was painted together with the frame at the factory. Should I leave it alone?photo.JPG
 
I would try tapping hard on the nut portion in combination with some penetrating oil.

I recall mine felt like it was overly torqued on my first oil change but it did come off using an open end wrench and without rounding the shoulders.

You really must get it removed in order to clean the small, cylindrical screen filter. Unless you have a super-skinny pinky you can make a very effective (and cheap) filter remover "tool" by bending a small kink in the pointy end of a ty-wrap.

Second picture taken during my first oil change - performed after putting about 2 hours on the clock. Good luck.

Filter Extraction Tool.jpg

1st Oil Change.jpg
 
Thanks, but I am not talking about the drain plug at the bottom of the engine. I am talking about the one at the bottom of the main frame beam. The one that is part of the re-circulation system. It roughly points at the spark plug. Number 4 in the picture below....
 

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