• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

360 Auto 1st gear clutch hub

I have a fresh rebuild on my 360 auto that will be run at the White Lightning AHRMA event next month. I trust the motor and plan on running it hard. My question then, is do you all think the damage done to this motor is from the corrosion on the hub?
 
No the rust on the hub drum/shoe contact surface was not the cause of the trans decentigrading. Roons trans had a lot of rust/corrosion/pitting on the bearing shafts and the surfaces the freewheels ride on. So the shaft and bearing surfaces just chewed up the freewheels and then the free wheel pieces took everything else out.

Did you take your auto trans apart and inspect the internals?

Marty
 
Hi Marty, this is Mick Milakovic. The motor has about 30 minutes run time on it. I was with Craig Hayes as he did the work for me because I had no experience with autos. I plan on changing fluid every two tanks, or every two, one-hour AHRMA races, just as you do. I know it's really easy to take them apart. How often do you you inspect internals?

Mick
 
I do mine every other long days ride. Change the oil every ride.
I take a mug of tea down to the workshop, and my goal is to have it all apart including the auxillary shaft before it cools too much to drink. I can normally put most of it back together before that :-)
The Univis oil does not stop the dreaded rust as it aerates when used.
 
Mick,
I change the oil every two tank fulls of gas. I have tried every kind/type of fluid of the last 18 years and found the best is the heavy weight Maxima shock oil, so far. I take the clutch side cover off at the end of the riding season and check the fist gear clutch hub assembly and nut torque. And that is all I do. If everything is shifting good and sounding good no need to go farther unless you see something that doesn't look right. The only failures I have had in 18 years is broken 1st gear springs (3 total) and had to replace a couple of free wheels when they would not work properly. On your 360 auto if you didn't do so I would upgrade to the 390/420 1st clutch shoes and hub. The 360 hub is a week link on the 360 auto. Also when you kick start it don't jab at the kick starter lever, rather kick it in one smooth full kick to allow the 1st gear free wheel to grip the crank shaft easier. You and Craig come out to Oregon sometime and we can give the autos a work out!

Marty

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