• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

40 mm forks

any one filled and redrilled the damping holes on the 40mm forks? i would like less compression and a tad more rebound (oil change just doesnt cut it and no matter how hard i look i cant find the clickers:mad: ). years ago there was always articles on how to adjust your forks for japanese bikes but im wondering if anyone has ever changed the damper rod orifices in any way? which holes are the comp and rebound?

You can't be looking hard enough - here are my clickers :eek: husky forks 001.JPG
 
"Notice the cross bar on his bars? Never found a set quite like them?"

dartyppyt - the bars are from a Can Am:

CAN AM - Copy.jpg
 
Much more info needed dmcoz! :popcorn:
Difficult to put into words and as I don't have install photos cannot do that either. Take a set of ktm exc internals to a good suspension shop where they also do machining and they will sort it..
 
Difficult to put into words and as I don't have install photos cannot do that either. Take a set of ktm exc internals to a good suspension shop where they also do machining and they will sort it..


Any idea which year model EXC internals?
 
I been buying the cr500 fork assemblies figuring there probably the best to start off with. I noticed years ago they install a piece of pvc pipe spacer to the springs to bring up the tention. When I took apart a elevator buffer(shock) the most holes for oil flow were at the top. There was less and less oil holes as the piston went down. I guess you guys tune the oil flow too by adding more holes? Do you change the diameter of the oil holes as you go down? By bigger holes on top smaller holes near the bottom.? I’m just trying to get an idea on what you guys do to tune the front forks.

Do you blend different weights of oil? Or just use a standard known weight?
 
The only difference (if any) in a 500 fork and any other size Husqvarna bike fork would be the spring rate, everything else is the same.
 
ol mate does a trick with valve springs to remove those crappy top out washers

This can work, but because there is no existing top out spring, any spring you install you will lose that much travel compared to the stock Husky setup. A spring works very well with CR damping rods on a WR, using the lost travel of the top out spring to bring the CR travel down to work with WR length rear suspension. I have this on one of my WRs and it works good.
 
thats what he does. atf is great in the tree roots and tight stuff but it gets all boingy boingy once you hit third gear. im going for 12.5 next as a simple try. should keep the high speed stable but give me back some plushy
 
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