• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

400 Clutch

M

mike328

Husqvarna
AA Class
I am not sure of the technical language for the parts so bear with me..
I have a '71 400 I am getting restored...I got the engine back today.
the CLUTCH lever on the bottom of the engine moves 'back & forth' without any 'RETURN" or movement "back" to and 'original' position.
now there is a spring on the cable but it seems to just 'dangle'
THE SPC is of little value for part names or configuration..so I am asking you guys...

should the clutch arm on the engine for a '71 400 husky have 'tension' or should it move 'back & forth' freely?
 
There should be a little play at the actuating arm, but not lots.

You won't be able to operate the clutch with your bare hands at this point, the leverage ratio is just too great. Place a 13mm spanner on the nut which holds it in place and operate the clutch. You should be able to feel the springs returning the arm in this way.

Good luck with it :thumbsup:
 
Yep yep...Great Resource..Thank you Crankpin!... NOW I feel the tension!
I was basing my experience on my Bull...it has an external spring and there is virtually NO play in it..

I will probably be asking more questions/suggestions..bear with me..
Thanks again..
 
the clutch adjust should be done with cable and lever installed.
turn the adjusment all the way in on the cable, then adjust the fine adjustement at the clutch end, make sure all the bolts are tight, and the locking washers are in place.
take up the slack with the adjustment at the engine, and after running, then adjust at the lever end.
 
Rev..when you say all the way in..do you mean tighten the cable at the handlebar lever so the adjusting nut is turned Clockwise (CW) till it stops & then go to the engine clutch actuating arm and take up slack by tightening it further at that end & then fine tune at the handlebar lever end?...(which is already tightened)?
sorry man I'm I noob & confused..
 
turn the adustment knob on the lever all the way in..closest to the lever pearch, then adjust the clutch at the rod end. at the center of the basket.
make sure you leave a little play as instructed in the manual.
the outer bolts are not to be adjusted, they are tightened up, and some pre 75 5 speeds had a locking tab washer,, it might be missing, but it had one at sometime, to keep the bolts from backing out.
if they are missing, make sure you loc tite the screws..they will back out, and ruin your day.
 
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