• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

420 Auto Rebuild - Case Splitting

SRRobirds

SRRobirds

Husqvarna
AA Class
All -

Apologies ahead of time, since I'm sure this topic has been covered here somewhere.

I'm bringing a neglected 420 Auto back to life and am splitting the case to replace all case bearings and seals. I purchased the Tusk Crankcase Splitter and successfully split the case. Upon using the splitter to remove the crank from the left case I got a lot of resistance - to the point where one of the arms of the splitter broke at the weld.

Am I doing something wrong here? Is there a trick to getting the crank out of the left case?

Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated!

Scott
 
The crank comes out of the bearings then the bearings are removed, I generally use an electric heat gun on the case to help get the bearings out. I can not comment on Tusk devices though. If I recall correctly the auto is just an aluminum case and has no steel insert for the crank bearings like the magnesium standard shift two cycle engines do. Upon further thinking I take off the left side half leaving the bearings in the case and the crank in the right side half but I suppose one could start by working from the ignition side. I would hope you took off the first gear clutch and then took out the big drum with the other clutches before splitting. I use manuals for most stuff but pretty much made up my own methods for these things.
 
Thanks Frank.

I think I can get the bearings out of the case with heat and other encouragement. But I'm having trouble getting the crank out of the left side case bearings. How do you do that?

Thanks again,
Scott
 
I have a disc that has holes for those tiny bolts or machine screws in that piece that stops the bearings from creeping outward. That disc is drilled and tapped for three 1/4 x20 tpi bolts that go to a three slot type puller, well pusher in this case. I have never damaged the cases or those tiny perhaps 4mm bolts or machine screws. I will look for a picture. http://www.frannyk.addr.com/cafehusky/engine.dissasembly.pix/P3040398.JPG not an auto but same special tool
 
Very helpful Frank.

I have one of those pullers I use for removing the 1st gear clutch in the auto. I'll give that a try.

Thanks again,
Scott
 
If it seems too hard perhaps at one time I used a tiny oxy acetylene flame on the inner race. Tiny means half an inch long total and less than a quarter inch on the inner cone. You are pushing the crank out of two 6205 bearings so at best it will only relieve half the load. The real battle on those automatics is when the taper for the first gear clutch becomes welded. Hard to believe it can get like a spot weld and not shear the key unless you have seen it. Torque that first gear clutch on at assembly and maybe at 5 minutes and then maybe at two hours, that I think is in some manual. There also is the shock factor of a blow to the puller/pusher main threaded piece.
 
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