• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

449 comments

On my old TT350 and my sons WR 250 we found that putting washer spacers on the clutch bolts gave a tad more free play, easier neutral finding and less roll on drag. Might be worth considering. Also is there a prospect of throwing the clutch out a tad further. I recollect in some old bikes a ball bearing was added to the push rod to get that effect. I know this is hydraulic clutch and that approach is redundant; but there should be some way to get a longer throw-different master cylinder perhaps
 
What oil do you run??
Should be a light grade oil.
5w40 full synthetic motorcycle oil is ideal.

Check to see that your shifter is
A. Not loose on the slines
B. Not set too high and contacting the cases on upshift.
 
I'm running 0-40, shifter is set firm, not too high and in fact can't be lowered at all because it would hit frame on down shift if lowered.

Last night took apart slave cal and found the print was a little damaged. Hopefully this is a hot lead!
 
I experienced all your stated problems on My 2012 SMR511. ZipTy's race mapIII helped, but not until Power Commander V with ZipTy's maps was problem completely solved. Also spewed oil out air box, again completely solved with ZipTy recirculation kit. (not shilling for ZipTy, but they were extremely helpful and resolved my issues) Which now brings us to shifting issues. Ridden hard, she's a little bitch and fights strong against upshifting, particularly 2-3, 3-4 & 5-6. Gentleman riding, few issues. Clutch also very snatchy, on/off operation. This bike is so much fun - If I only can get this sorted out....
 
BTW, no clutch drag problem. And I run Mobil 1 full synth eurospec 0-40, and change about every 300 miles, or after trackday or 2.
 
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