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45mm fork harshness

4

420skirider

Husqvarna
A Class
I need some help/input on the '07 TE 45mm forks.(250)
I posted a similar thread on TT and it turned into a Honda/Husky battle.
Here's the problem, after two re-valves(and $800+ spent) my forks are still harsh as h*** on roots, rocks, braking bumps, etc. They're great for high speed whoops and big hits but the choppy stuff is killing me. As you know, in Eastern enduro you need a bike to handle both well if you want to finish the race and still have the use of your arms.
I've used two well known/reputable shops most of you know them. The second shop is very willing to work with me but they suggest softer fork springs to alleviate the problem. I disagree, I think there's something else going on.
Can anyone give me some constructive input?
Will lowering the oil level in the forks make a difference?
(As a frame of reference I've never had this type of harshness in my previous Jap bikes.)
BTW:Yes, my forks are aligned properly, and the pinch bolts are torqued correctly. Yes, I had fork and shock done together.
Stats: 180# rider,C level - Fork spring:4.5kg-Rear spring:5.2kg
 
Lowering the oil level makes the initial part of the stroke softer and the fork less progressive. Might help.
 
If they are a reputable shop that works on Zokes (important) then i would work on the clickers a bit, and then if still not, send them back.

For a 180lbs rider on a 250 doing 'C' level east coast, i would think .42/.43 springs and 5 or 5.2 rear is what you want.

5wt. oil 100mm from the top with the springs in and the forks collapsed.

4" of race sag, etc. get them all set up.

Even without any re-valving just these changes should make them very usable.

Again--if it is a Zoke shop, then just work with the clickers a bit.

If its just a reputable suspension shop, like Precisions Concepts or RG3 or whoever--but not a Zokes shop, well then i would bite the bullett and send them to Les. Zokes are different, and lots of shops dont have enough Zoke time under their belt. (not that they are bad shops, they arent, at all)

Frankly--i would send them to Les no matter what and just do what he says to do.

If its Les that did the work, i would work with him.

Any reliable suspension guy is gonna work with you-meaning they will re-do the set up for free, 2-3 times if necessary. New springs should cost $100 or so. You can put them in yourself if you already had the re-valve. Not saying it will be perfect, but should get you in the ball park.

Just trying to help. It can be tricky.
 
I have been fiddling with my forks as well . Mine are 08, I added the base valves left he shim stack alone and went went with 5 wt @ 110mm. I left the springs stock. I started at 90mm and took it for a ride, then dropped it 10mm took it for a ride then dropped it for a ride, finally at 110 I think it is pretty good. Comp adjusters are basically wide open.

After this riding season I may send them off and have them professionally worked on but for now this is good enough.

They are a lot better but i think they can still be improved.

I think the best advise is to play with the oil height, the bigger air gap the less harsh they are initially. Air compresses but oil does not so the air gap takes up the initial hit (by the air compressing) then as the fork continues to compress oil is forced through the valves (this is when lighter oil will help) I read somewhere where one guy was running 2.5wt and he said it was great but I have not tried it.

my .02
 
Thanks guys, Talked to the shop yesterday and as you say Mark, he recommends a .42 spring. Another suspension shop I talked to a few months ago had the same spring recommendation.
This shop does have a good track record with Husky's in this area. I spoke with other Husky riders who have used them who are happy with their work. That's why I was suprised to not have a better result at first. Anyway, the guy is great to work with and definitely listens to what I have to say. He promised me that he will get the forks to the point where I'm happy with them. I'm just getting tired of taking the thing apart and putting it back together.
 
My 45's will bind if the lower clamps are torqued anywhere close to the 18 pounds the manual states. I only go 12 on them. My oil is at 130mm with 10wt. I have 4.4 springs at the recomendation of Les at LTR. I am 200 pounds but my bike is about 20 pounds lighter then yours. Anyway I find the forks to be very plush and great at low speed chop. Anyway I hope you get this sorted out.
 
It will be interesting to hear back what was done to get your forks right. Let us know.

I was going to say similar things like oil height, oil weight, and playing with the clickers. My 45's were the same way when new. Easily the harshest forks I have ever ridden in small chop and square-edged bits, and I owned a 89 CR250! :busted:
 
I have been through this on my 05TE450 and after a weekend in the bush just gone, i feel like they are still too harsh. We rode a lot of rocky track and i always feel like the front is being wrenched and deflected away, instead of absorbing the hits. Also i reckon it bottoms out easily off jumps, where as on the the 08 TE450 i feel the suspension absorb the hit and gently return me to ride height. I am 100kg which might not be helping :)

I rode a mates 07 TE510 over the same track and it makes the track feel like blacktop road...so smoooth.

The 09 TE510 was super push on the flat track but a bit rough/harsh on the rocky stuff. The 08 TE450 was really plush through the hilly track and rocky stuff.

Could the different between the 50mm TEs be all clickers? All bikes were stock, except for the 05 which has had revalve, springs etc late last year. I am no suspension expert but i am handy with tools - worth lowering the fork oil a little and re testing?
 
It's the 45's that seem to have the harshness issue much more so than the 50's. Will be riding for the first time tomorrow after switching to lighter fork springs. Will post with results.
 
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