• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

511 Twitchy at High Speed

I had the same problem with new bike, also a friend has the same bike (TE449) bought same time. Terrible head shake when new, afraid to push bike above 50 mph. I let some air of the the front tire and it added 10mph to my top speed prior to shake. HUGE difference. Friend thought I was full of it, he did the same, same results. I later pushed my forks up into the triple tree, and this also helped. I don't have any problems with shake now. Start by letting some air out of the front tire, let me know the results.
 
Tinken said:
Push your forks down in your triple clamps and set your race sag to 115.
Click to expand...


I already have the forks as low as they can go in the triples. I def need to set the sag though.

I had a Scotts damper lying around from my road racing days so just ordered the mount kit to fit it to my 511. Might as well use it if I have it. :)
 
What gearing are you guys running to get these speeds. The fastest I've ever had my 511 going was 90 mph fully pegged going downhill and yes, I was getting the high speed wobbles. :eek:
The non-DOT knobbies may have had something to do with that.
 
Mine is an SMR and I believe they are geared a bit differently. I even went up two teeth on the rear sprocket to reduce the top speed and give me better low speed grunt and mine will easily do over 90 mph.
 
Are the wheels and tires you have on there balanced properly? I can cruise 75-80 on my dirt tires once I balanced them. Made more of a difference then the Scott's I have or my racetech suspension setup. Definitely balance the tires n wheels if they are not already.
 
Had a friend help me out with the suspension. We measured the following sag (from bike sitting on its wheels to me sitting on bike)

Fr: 26mm
Rr: 60mm

Currently the forks are all the way down in the triple clamp (fork top is flush with top of triple clamp)

Suggestions?
 
What Tinken said. Fork height and recheck spring sag, back to damper settings front and rear. Go ride it again....
 
I could not solve this problem on my te510, until I installed Motorsports damper. All was great after damper.
 
Suputin said:
Had a friend help me out with the suspension. We measured the following sag (from bike sitting on its wheels to me sitting on bike)

Fr: 26mm
Rr: 60mm

Currently the forks are all the way down in the triple clamp (fork top is flush with top of triple clamp)

Suggestions?
Click to expand...
Rear sag is too high, set at 100mm to start, might need to go down to 110-115mm.
 
Tinken said:
Rear sag is too high, set at 100mm to start, might need to go down to 110-115mm.
Click to expand...


I will try this. Interstingly, I already reduced the rear spring preload by quite a bit to get to the 60mm setting.

Any suggestions on the front?
 
I second the request for sag recommendations on the front. The service manual and owners manual only give suggestions for the rear suspension sag.
 
I just looked at the owners manual and apparently I did the sag measurement wrong. The 60mm I measured was the difference between me sitting on the bike and the bike sitting on its wheels without me. By the manual the sag should be measured with the suspension fully extended.
 
Cosmokenney said:
I've gotten bad wobbles when I had the cheap hand guards on my bikes. Take the guards off and try again.
Click to expand...

??? Really hand guards.

Check wheel balance its easy put it on your center stand and rotate the wheel 90• hold it there, then let go if the wheel rotates irs outta balance when the wheel stops rotating add weight to the otherside of the wheel opposite low point wrapped up solder around the spoke nipple will do for time being.
When it doesnt move wherever you stop the rotation your done take her for a spin see if thats better.

Also track pants caused my speed wobble but thats a different story.
 
I assumed that he had already checked wheel balance. Both up-down and side to side. Sometimes it's just the tire that was cast uneven.

The sag should be set by measuring on a stand with the wheels suspended. Then under the motorcycle's own weight is your static sag number. Then with you sitting on the motorcycle (in full gear as you would be riding it), check the sag once more which is the race sag. For your SMR, you should be about 35-40mm static and 100mm of race sag for the rear, 50mm for the front.

I ride high speed desert so my front sag is about 50mm and my rear sag is 120mm.
 
I have my own wheel balancer and this issue has continued from the OEM tires to a known good set of ex-race tires.

How high are your forks in the triples? Cause there is no preload adjustment in the forks so raising or lowering them in the triples is about the only way to change the front sag ... other than swapping out springs.
 
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