• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

610 brake pad removal

C

CrankN

Husqvarna
AA Class
How do you remove the rear brake pads without pulling off the calliper?
I'm sure if i pull off the clip i should be able to knock the pin through??
Whichside of the caliper do i knock it from?
 
cant remember which way it goes but it does knock thru once the pin is removed. mine was pretty tight. from memory, isn't one end large than the other? that will tell u which way to go.
 
Yeah your right, the hub side of the pin is larger. Will need a rather thin diameter punch to hit from other side though....
My pin will spin so maybe it won't take to much to remove.
Once is out is it hard to replace the pads? Getting late here in Aust so will attack it tomorrow.
 
You might have to squeeze the pistons back in the caliper a bit to slide in the new pads, finger pressure should be enough, just watch that you don't overflow the reservoir.

The pin is hard to get in and out because it's got a spring collar on it to keep it from wiggling in the caliper.
 
Holy crap! That was the easiest job ever!
I knocked the pin straight out and pulled out the pads. The new ones sat straight in and I knocked the pin back in. Took 2 minutes!!! :banana:

I always thought the rear breaks were a bit spongey, even after bleeding through fresh fluid. I'm glad i changed the pads.....
I could see that there was about 2.5mm of pad left on the outside pad so of course it was time to change them. The inside pad was impossible to check as i run motard wheels and can't see passed the tire. With pads wearing evenly both sides all should be sweet..... WRONG!!

There was no brake material left on the inside pad! It hadn't worn away, it had fallen off! :eek:

Should have been a bit more alert to this with reduced brakage :(
 
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