• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

630 Connecting Rod Bearing Failure

I am presently hearing a light knock noise that seems to be coming from the left side. It does not sound bad at idle--only within the first 3000 rpm of acceleration. It is not a loud knock; rather, a subtle "click" like knock or rattle that almost sounds like the front sprocket moving with chain. Bike has 19 000 km and still runs very strong, gets impressive fuel economy and doesn't disappoint. My next oil change is not for another 3000 km; however, if the noise gets worse I will have no choice but to drain the oil and inspect drain plug magnet.

For the time being, is there any other way I can positively identify a worn engine component just by riding it? Let me know, thanks.
 
Maybe record it with your cell phone, post it to YouTube and give us the link here? I had a noise that worried me, but found someone who'd posted a video making the exact same sound and the consensus was "that's normal".
 
Sooter said:
I am presently hearing a light knock noise that seems to be coming from the left side. It does not sound bad at idle--only within the first 3000 rpm of acceleration. It is not a loud knock; rather, a subtle "click" like knock or rattle that almost sounds like the front sprocket moving with chain. Bike has 19 000 km and still runs very strong, gets impressive fuel economy and doesn't disappoint. My next oil change is not for another 3000 km; however, if the noise gets worse I will have no choice but to drain the oil and inspect drain plug magnet.

For the time being, is there any other way I can positively identify a worn engine component just by riding it? Let me know, thanks.
Click to expand...

When was the last time the valves were adjusted or the cam chain tension checked? From your description to me it sounds like the cam chain is stretched and hitting the reed valve or the valves are out of adjustment and making more noise than they should.
 
Yeah it's definitely not a noise that is easily identified. Does not make any noises when it's idling only upon the first 3000rpms of acceleration. It's probably a loose component or bolt on the frame...but if I do an oil change and discover considerable metal shavings I will have something to worry about.

I will try to record it but for now I'll do the same and consider it normal. Bike runs awesome.

Raaron, I checked the valves when I first bought the bike at 12500 kms and they were spot on. It now has 19000, I was thinking to check the valves as well. Will do so next week as a precaution.
 
So I went and checked the manual and it says the timing chain and associated parts should be replaced at 20000km which you are very close too. It also says valves should be checked and adjusted if necessary every 5k miles and it looks like you are at about 7k since your last inspection/adjustment.
 
Can anyone here send me a link or provide I formation on how to adjust the valves? I currently have the valve cover off but the shop manual is not very informative
 
Actually not very difficult at all...popping the clip and removing the shim is very straight forward. Basically a 25 minute job if you have all tools/parts available.
 
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