• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

630's, check those bolts.

badbowie said:
Has anyone got a P/N for the updated sprocket bolts/nuts for the TE630. My bike has 5000km on it I always check sprocket bolts and they have always been tight.
I checked the sprocket bolts prior to riding last weekend all tight. After 500km of pretty hard riding the sprocket bolts were all loose caught it just in time.

I compared the sprocket nuts on my current 630 to the ones on my old 630 and the old 630 has different sprocket nuts.
Click to expand...

There are the locking nuts with metal inserts (forget the name) that came from the factory, and then there are nylocs. Either will work - just blue locktite them, torque to spec, and keep an eye on them. I've had zero issues in 6K miles.
 
CJBROWN said:
There are the locking nuts with metal inserts (forget the name) that came from the factory, and then there are nylocs. Either will work - just blue locktite them, torque to spec, and keep an eye on them. I've had zero issues in 6K miles.
Click to expand...

They were the original ones with the metal insert that came loose, there was next to no resistance I could spin the nuts on by hand. I'v never had any dramas on other bikes with the same style nuts and never have used locktite on sprocket nuts either.
I'll be putting a new sprocket on with new nuts and the nuts will be locktited hopefully that fixes it?
 
It's from the "massive Husky torque" ....

I never had them come loose, and I checked them regularly, but I did swap on the new ones my dealer sent me when I got a new sprocket.
 
Just use nylock nuts and be sure that the bolt is long enough to fully penetrate the nylon. A bit of blue loctite is a good idea too.

A buddy of mine with a KTM 530 lost almost all of his sprocket bolts on a ride, and the sprocket got so loose it jammed into the swingarm and stopped the wheel; so, this isn't a problem that is isolated to Huskies.
 
A buddy of mine with a KTM 530 lost almost all of his sprocket bolts on a ride, and the sprocket got so loose it jammed into the swingarm and stopped the wheel; so, this isn't a problem that is isolated to Huskies.[/quote]

Aren't the new Husky's just inbred Ktm's?
 
Aren't the new Husky's just inbred Ktm's?
Click to expand...


The 14's, yes, just to get over the hump of being bought out, but there aren't many of them in the wild yet. The 15's are supposed to be new.
 
After breaking the right lower sub frame bolt and losing the left I started looking into what the real problem may be. On the left side the threaded portion has only a few threads into what looks like some kind of a lipped washer. So I am thinking with the torque of a load on the subframe and sub par threads the left bolt backs out and disappears. The right with sufficient thread is now flexing and eventually breaks. To fix mine I had to remove the tank, air box, rear master cylinder passenger peg mounts and a bunch of other stuff so I could drill and then use an easy out to extract the bolt. I used the bolts mentioned above M8, 65mm long 10.9 and then backed it up with a nut on the back side. All secured with blue locktite.
 

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The weld above the left lower (chainside) subframe bolt fractured, breaking the cast part from the box section on my bike.
I had to remove the whole subframe to get it welded back on.
 
Spice Weasel said:
The weld above the left lower (chainside) subframe bolt fractured, breaking the cast part from the box section on my bike.
Click to expand...
This? (from a 610)
10ekhh3.jpg
 
Yes, there was a perfect fracture line all the way round where the cast and box section met.
I found it because i was moving my top chain roller to there.
 
Thanks for this post, after reading it I put in longer bolts backed bolts backed up by nylox to hopefully avoid any issues down the track
 
Digging up an old thread here but from experience I highly recommend changing the lower subframe bolts ASAP!

My lower left one snapped off and refused to come out with an easyout so I had to drill it out. While I was at it, I drilled out the threads on both lower subframe mounts so I could use a longer shoulder bolt to move the threads away from the shear force being applied by the subframe. I also upgraded to grade 12.9 bolts. I had to cut the left one down to suit. Details below.

Subframe bolt 02.jpg
 
Yes, it's common for them to bend or break. They should be checked regularly. I always carried a spare in my tool pack should one break in the field.

I would highly recommend against a hardened bolt however - better for it to break there than something more critical. You gotta really hammer it to bend or break a standard bolt.

The other common breakage is the footpeg bracket bolts - those can benefit from a hardened bolt, however the bracket itself will then break if it goes. Anyone over 250lbs or so that rides hard is at risk for a broken foot peg.

All of the fasteners should be blue locktited. It's a paint shaker. LOL
 
CJBROWN said:
The other common breakage is the footpeg bracket bolts
Click to expand...

I broke one once.
I also agree on the fact that, when components work together, usually there is a weakest link in the chain of components which will tend to break easier. For instance, a sturdier Woodruff key in the crankshaft may not break but could it crack the crankshaft or the gears installed on it? I'd prefer to break the key.
In the same way, I'd rather break a bolt than a subframe.
 
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