• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

'71 400 Cross resto

MarkVMod0 said:
Just go to the local Honda dealer. Those were standard cable wraps on the CBX.
95014-61200 Band A2, wire. $1.99
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Great suggestion.
And here I am paying $5.00 apiece plus shipping. :eek:
I notice the CBX straps have vinyl coating, can the vinyl be trimmed to different lengths to allow use on different diameters?
 
Someone help my memory. I remember the front brake cable being attached to the fork leg with these straps, seems like there was even a little bump out in the strap where the cable went through. Was it one longer strap or two hooked together? In photos of restored machines, I usually see a plastic zip tie (like I'm using). The Honda strap is not quite long enough for the fork leg either.
 
So the bike is complete (YAY****************************************!) i'm just doing some fine tuning and adjustment before i start it up. this includes adjusting my cables for the brakes, clutch and throttle as well as brake adjustment etc etc.
The issue i have is my trap door throttle assembly, it's a new one (reproduction i believe) as the one that was on it was a crappy plastic MCS one that worked but isn't original, i've lubed the cable, adjusted the carb end so the slide moves correctly and greased the inside of the trapdoor assembly as well as the handlebar but the twist grip sticks, it won't return consistently.
There's a steel ring that sits between the inside end of the grip and the housing and it seems to catch on the philips screws that hold it together, they're sitting flush and tight so i don't know what else to do other than lube it with a spray which i've tried with limited success.
Any ideas guys?
 
I remember the front brake cable being attached to the fork leg with these straps, seems like there was even a little bump out in the strap where the cable went through.
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Steve, I used those steel wire ties on the front brake cable of a Desert Master I restored years ago. I had to used 2 of them to reach ago the fork leg. One was real short so it was hidden behind the fork leg.

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i've lubed the cable, adjusted the carb end so the slide moves correctly and greased the inside of the trapdoor assembly as well as the handlebar but the twist grip sticks, it won't return consistently.
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Looney, sounds like you've lubed everything really well. Keep in mind this could be case of multiple things.

The screws protruding above their mating surface could be a problem depending on how much the washer is catching on them and if the washer spacing between the throttle and grip is tight. The washer should be loose a bit when the grip is in place. You shouldn't have to lube this area. Just collects dirt.

Have you tested the movement of the cable without the twist throttle by pulling the end of the cable and seeing if it snaps back with the aid of the carb spring when you let go of the cable?

Is the throttle assembly possibly sliding onto the handlebars so far that its allowing the rubber grip to contact the end of the bars?

Are your bars small enough to accept the throttle assemble easily?
 
Crashaholic said:
Looney, sounds like you've lubed everything really well. Keep in mind this could be case of multiple things.

The screws protruding above their mating surface could be a problem depending on how much the washer is catching on them and if the washer spacing between the throttle and grip is tight. The washer should be loose a bit when the grip is in place. You shouldn't have to lube this area. Just collects dirt.

Have you tested the movement of the cable without the twist throttle by pulling the end of the cable and seeing if it snaps back with the aid of the carb spring when you let go of the cable?

Is the throttle assembly possibly sliding onto the handlebars so far that its allowing the rubber grip to contact the end of the bars?

Are your bars small enough to accept the throttle assemble easily?
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hey mate,
the screws are tight and they don't protrude enough to catch, just scrape the steel washer, i've checked the cable, lubed it well and it snaps back nicely, the slide spring is definitely doing it's job which is cool.
So i'm sure i've isolated it to the trap door assembly, the bar is lubed and the grip slides over easily but i haven't thought about the grip binding on the end of the bar, good tip, thanks, i'm off to check that and clean up excess lube behind the grip.
Cheers, i'll report back!
 
Hmmm, i've moved the grip out a couple of mm and lowered the cable path into the trapdoor so it has a smoother run, much much better, but.... it will stick at full open and it seems like it's the slide that's sticking???
 
so i took off the air cleaner lid and filter, undid the clamp that holds the carb on and turned the carb on the manifold until i could get the bowl off, everything looks fine, not sure why it's flooding, the needle and seat stops flowing with the float against it. Is it possible my new float is set too high? i've looked but can't find any setting measurement or instruction on where the float should be...
 
IMG_1145.jpg It's all sorted, carb float is correct and it's got LOTS of compression!

sorted the twist grip too, for some reason it pinched the grip when tightened so it wouldn't move on the bar, with a shim under the grip it tightens properly and the grip twists properly.

When i kick it it starts first go, idles smooth as and is real crisp when i rev it once warm. I was in a position where i thought i would have to sell it but it's all good so i'm keeping it.
 
I finally got around to uploading the videos of my bike running, stupid protected apple formats aargh!

anyway, the first one is the first time it fired up, i set up the slide against the throttle cable which is why the air cleaner is off, after tickling up the carb we kicked it a few times and it showed signs of life so i recorded from that point and it fired right up

View: https://youtu.be/ZJis-3XuC9o


View: https://youtu.be/A6T38iEMnPQ


The other one is just the bike idling away while doing a walk around, i'm quite proud of my efforts but there is no way i could have done this resto without the help of Cafe Husky or the knowledgeable members who contributed so thanks very, very much.

I thought about selling it but couldn't bring myself to go through with it so i've have had it appraised for insurance purposes, which was interesting. It has a cover over it in the corner at the moment and considering it has the original carb, engine, guards, exhaust, shocks, tank, in fact everything except the rims (original rear cracked, front not original) bars and throttle assembly (just missing) i'm hesitant to risk racing it so i might do a later bike with a more conventional shift/brake arrangement and keep this one safe.

cheers guys.
Paul.
 
Looking great loony! I never get tired of that Husky sound. When I finish a restoration I can't resist running the bike through the gears up and down the street. I've even had some restos in dirt for a couple miles. In the end it feels good to know everything is working good.
 
Cheers guys, i have weakened and ridden it, took it to a big grass oval not far from home and rode around, made sure all the adjustments were good, brakes clutch etc, the gear change lever had to be adjusted so i could engage 4th properly but it's good, and crikey it's fast!
 
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