• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

74 400 Cross Engine Assembly Help?

I thought he was saying he heated the left stub while in the cases to 400deg f. If so he'll need a new left crank seal. After re reading his post, I still would not put a gear on the drive side stub if it was at that temp.
 
Still, it seems to me that 40nm/29 ft lbs isn't very much for something so critical.
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I know what you mean. When pulling the torque wrench it clicks sooner than I expect at 29lbs, but then who am I to second guess a mechanical engineer.
 
So I've been mulling over what to do about my clutch assembly and getting a piston.

John Lefever says I should use the red loctite on the clutch but I'm not keen on using something that requires 500 degrees of heat to disassemble. Pretty sure DFA will agree on that. Not that I ever plan on taking this motor apart again but you never know... I wonder, what if I just put like 2 drops of the stuff on?

I've made a lock washer by cutting out slots in a spare washer & bending them to fit into the slots & then grinding those tabs to fit. Not sure I should use it though. I believe my homemade lock washer is stronger than the original by being thicker but the slots it fits into aren't very deep and I'm also concerned that with the thicker lock washer there's less thread in the nut to bolt on the clutch hub.

As I mentioned previously, I have a lot of experience with Bultacos and looking at a manual I see that their recommendation for torque on the clutch hub is 75 foot pounds. It looks like Husqvarna only specified 29 foot pounds for the 74 400CR. That seems awfully light to me & I'm wondering if maybe I should apply a bit more pressure rather than using red loctite?

I did receive notice from Vintco that they now have the 1st OS piston in stock so I guess I'll be ordering that.
 
John Lefever says I should use the red loctite on the clutch but I'm not keen on using something that requires 500 degrees of heat to disassemble. Pretty sure DFA will agree on that. Not that I ever plan on taking this motor apart again but you never know... I wonder, what if I just put like 2 drops of the stuff on?
Click to expand...

Personally, I think you're complicating things. The Husky manual recommends a thread locker and a particular torque for a reason. Permatex has an orange product (25210) that claims its 3x stronger than red and it comes apart without the use of a blow torch or dynamite.
 
DeathFromAbove said:
I thought he was saying he heated the left stub while in the cases to 400deg f. If so he'll need a new left crank seal. After re reading his post, I still would not put a gear on the drive side stub if it was at that temp.
Click to expand...


So how do you think it might be damaged? I tried reading some metallurgical treatises but the language was too technical for me. My impression is that if overheating damaged the part it will most likely be softer and more prone to wear... or maybe it'll be too brittle. Well, there's no visible damage but you've scared me enough that I've ordered a replacement on ebay.
 
Crashaholic said:
Personally, I think you're complicating things. The Husky manual recommends a thread locker and a particular torque for a reason. Permatex has an orange product (25210) that claims its 3x stronger than red and it comes apart without the use of a blow torch or dynamite.
Click to expand...


Crash, well Damn! This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
 
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