• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

77 WR250 back from the dead

You have to "un-stake" the end to dismantle. It's a PITA to do it without breaking something, and nearly as much to re-stake after.
 
You have to "un-stake" the end to dismantle. It's a PITA to do it without breaking something, and nearly as much to re-stake after.
Maybe I'll just use the new one I got.
On another subject I got the tank primed
 

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Update on the whole bike. It's coming along well. I got the seat on today but no pics of that yet.
 

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During the course of cleaning the rear brake plate I found the steel fork had worn an outline into the magnesium. The bushing and rubber had shifted inboard also.
I ground the damage flat and parallel then took a stainless washer of the correct thickness and reamed the center to match the housing. I used JB Weld to glue it on and sanded the match the contour. I Painted it flat black and now I never have to worry about wear as long as the epoxy doesn't fail.
 

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rich, I could not get my VDO one apart, but I did not try too hard. In pumping grease in it, the center did seem to separate a bit.
 
Ok I got it apart and here's what's inside.
It was cruddy, rusty, and gummed up.
I used a dremel with a metal cutting bit to get the peened part shaved.
I'm not taking the large wheel apart because it's pretty free to move.
what type grease did VDO use? Maybe some type of graphite.
That stuff sticks to everything and must have been super quality to have lasted that long.
 

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Well after all the work to get the wheel sensor going I discovered the cable end that goes into it is sheared off inside the housing. I can hear the frayed end spinning inside the jacket and there's no square drive. Ughhh :(
Anyone have a spare?
 
Well after all the work to get the wheel sensor going I discovered the cable end that goes into it is sheared off inside the housing. I can hear the frayed end spinning inside the jacket and there's no square drive. Ughhh :(
Anyone have a spare?
I've got an automotive speedometer specialty shop locally that was able to fab up a new core for me, FYI.
They were able to also able to put together a cable for my '85 speedometer (the '86 they couldn't do, but I believe some Harley Dyna's from the '80s use essentially the same cable, sheath and all, though once I found the above, I stopped looking).
 
Thanks Eric I think NAPA carries cores.
They didn't have it.
I sent it to West Valley Instruments in Reseda CA for a rebuild.
 
MY VDO drive did not have that tabbed washer thing....where does that piece sit? Mine mates directly to the pins in the wheel hub.
 
MY VDO drive did not have that tabbed washer thing....where does that piece sit? Mine mates directly to the pins in the wheel hub.
The washer is the coupler between the hub and VDO unit.
the small tabs fit in the notches in the VDO and the others fit into notches in the hub.
I'm sure there were different designs over the years.
 
Got the new chain on today and the 120 length was way off.
I followed the manual procedure of getting all three bolts lined up with the suspension weighted and having 5-10mm slack.
Presuming the "link" length is actually the roller count, I ended up cutting off 14 rollers meaning a 106 would have been fine.
Now I have extra if I need it.
 
you'll never need it...ive got a box full of those tail bits....ive kept them "in case" for 30 odd years...nearly enough to make a full chain!
 
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