• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

'78 WR (OR?) Restoration

Looks like my SA is disintegrated, parts are rolling around and stuck in the silencer tube by what appears to have been the base plate for the SA. So to confirm there should be no packing in the perforated tube inside #2?
 
The best thing that can happen to the SA is for it to either come out or the centre mesh to disappear ! They clog up with carbon and restrict the motor.
As I said earlier, the wadding gets wrapped around the perforated pipe. Th SA sits at the front of the silencer, and the wadding sits behind it. It's the same as in my '78 390WR pipe. If the SA will come out, just remove the centre mesh and put it back in.
 
Ok will do. Someone must have stuffed packing in the pipe by mistake. Dents is silencer are not allowing SA, or whats left of it to come out, may have to cut it open.
 
surgery is required. unless your in a forestry area with high fire risk and need the sa, if you can make a longer inner perforated tube for better silencing, you will have better performance as well. im not sure how easy that would be.
 
Houredout401 said:
Ok will do. Someone must have stuffed packing in the pipe by mistake. Dents is silencer are not allowing SA, or whats left of it to come out, may have to cut it open.
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The guts of my 74 400WR muffler (downstream of the SA) have gone missing. There aren't many spare parts available out there for the exhaust, so I'm having a new "perf-tube" and end cap made at a local muffler shop. The SA is still in place and looks serviceable; good thing, 'cause I probably couldn't get it out past the dents anyhow. The outside of the perf-tube will be wrapped fairly tightly with about 13 mm thick packing, which will be strapped on with a few bits of SS wire. A 73 mm OD x 330 mm stainless spring (330 mm free length, 244 mm installed) will then go around the entire tube/packing mess and apply about 6 pounds of pre-load between the SA and the end cap when installed, pushing the end cap out against the retainer circlip to minimize vibration and wear. The spring will also serve to hold the packing in place around the perf-tube. Be happy to provide photos of the assembly when finished if anyone is interested.
JT
 
Frame finally ready for paint. I tried the "bead of weld" trick to remove the outer races from the frame head tube, but that did not work. So I did my tried and true "weld in a bolt trick", and they popped right out.

 
Starting re-assembly of the engine now that cases are painted and have had a week or so of cure time. Got all bearings in no issue except for the small bearing in mag side case. This is the smaller of the three bearings in that case, and it is a blind bearing that covers the clutch shaft hole (Not the one in the top of the case that the actuator rides on, this one is inside the case). That bearing does not seem to press in flush and I cant remember if that is the way it was when I pulled the old bearing??? Here is the picture, it is sticking up about 3/16's, maybe a 1/4" I installed the bearing twice and both time would only seat to this level.

Edit: fixed. Pulled it again and there was a tiny metal shaving holding it up.

 
Parts back from platers, now the real assembly can begin. This is actually two bikes worth of hardware - my '77CR and '78WR. Same price if I did one or two bikes, so why not do both. This is the first time I had re-plated nylock nuts - happy to find out the nylon holds up fine to the process.
 
Original seat pan was cracked and rusted beyond repair. Had to pay more than I thought to get a decent one. Here it is after blasting and semi-gloss black PC:

 
Looks real nice. What kind of plating? Do they prep them first?
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Just clear zinc this time, cadmium line was not available. Does not hold up as well as nickel or cadmium, but for $100 I'm good with it. The platers put the parts through a chemical prep process that degreases, de-plates, and acid-etch, but I have found that the more mechanical prep you do the better the results. I degrease in a bucket and then wire wheel the area or the part that will show (like the head and end of the bolt). If a nut or other item has a raised or gouged area, I hit that with a file, but really don't spend that much time. For these parts, I probably put in 60 minutes of total prep. If a part is severely pitted from rust, you will not get as shiny a finish.
 
cmon Mike, lift your game....only 20 nuts and bolts on a husky, take you ten mins to put it back together....:thinking: 15 tops
 
Yeah, he's right. I like to bust on Dave. He does nice work.
I've been ridin' the wire wheel for the last hour or so.
For some sick reason, I kind of like it. got a small brass wheel on my drill press.
 
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