• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

'78 WR (OR?) Restoration

Thanks for the boston accent, makes me feel right at home. Took care of some little stuff like cutting new chain guide blocks and fitting stainless screws. The UHMD cuts well on a table saw, but man its tough to file:



Cleaned up the stator wires with new gray sheath, new terminals all around, and the freshly made stator wire grommet that Andy at HVA reproduced:



And its a racer, but threw on some of the authentic warning decals that motomwo makes:

 
Highlight of the weekend was the aftermarket head light brackets. Took a chance ordering online and was happy to see they look very similar to OEM and are almost the correct dimensions. You can see OEM one at the bottom. The OEM silver brackets almost fit the mounting holes but they are off a hair. I'll probably never use the originals, but I don't want to mess them up as I hear they are a bit rare. So I'll cut new ones and paint them. A few spacers larger than the OEM ones will be used to make up the extra width for the 40MM forks, vs the 35MM.

 
looking good my man. maybe ziptie that stator wire where it goes thru the engine mount to stop it rubbing
 
Back at it after a break. Looking at timing the motoplat, read the manual but want to confirm. I'm a bit confused because the motoplat had slotted screws on both the stator and on the state base plate. Then the stator base plate is mounted to a another plate that mounts to the case in a fixed position.

With the screws loose that hold the stator to the plate, should the 2MM pin line up with the flywheel hole and stator hole when the TDC line on the flywheel lines up with a TDC mark on the case?
 
There's a setting on where the piston is at BTDC. IN MM's. That's measured as the piston approaches TDC. The next way to time the ignition is using a degree wheel on the driven side of the crankshaft with a home made pointer. This is the timing advance they mention in degrees. You must find the exact top dead center then back off in degrees. I dial indicator comes in handy too.
 
Thanks Bill, I'm familiar with the methods and dial indicators. My question is which of the two sets of screws are adjusted - manual is not clear - and when should the two holes line up - with the TDC mark on the flywheel lining up with the TDC mark on the case, or the prescribed BTDC mark on the flywheel lining up with the TDC mark on the case.
 
Houredout401 said:
Thanks Bill, I'm familiar with the methods and dial indicators. My question is which of the two sets of screws are adjusted - manual is not clear - and when should the two holes line up - with the TDC mark on the flywheel lining up with the TDC mark on the case, or the prescribed BTDC mark on the flywheel lining up with the TDC mark on the case.
Click to expand...
ideally you adjust the outermost, as they are the easiest to get to. the other screws are to help if you run out of adjustment. having a good range of adjustment with the outer screws lets you adjust time with the flywheel on.
when the holes line up, theres spark...spark is set like bill states, preferably with the dial indicator method. you have marks on your case and flywheel for timing?
 
Thanks I figured it out, multiple sets for the necessary range like you said. I had marks but rechecked with dial indicator to make sure. By the way, the manual had incorrect references for all of the 1978 WR's - they were listing points ignitions....so I used the specs for the motoplat listings for the CR model. CR's said 2.43MM BTDC, but I went with a little less advance at 2.3MM. But I could not complete the job as I noticed I was missing the "distance ring" that is under the flywheel nut. I assume that spacer is just a thick hardened washer?

Edit: Marty came to the rescue with the distance spacer as well as the correct size brake pedal rod, huge help. Fingers crossed, I finally have all parts to button her up. Got a nice fat blue spark last night as well. yeah!
 
On the 1970's bikes where did they bolt the voltage regulator to? If I bolt to the ignition coil bracket, it sticks out too far and hits the tank. I can make a bracket to attach to the ignition coil bracket and make it work, but wondering what the original set up was.
 
you can get just about any vintage wiring stuff you need from cycleterminal.com or vintageconnections.com. I have yet to find gray wire sheath that matches the more whitish non-metallic gray that husky used. The gray stuff out there is more of a silver, like Honda used to use. But funny you should ask, I'm sitting in the dentist office yesterday and the wire sheath on the plugs of his machines werer a dead on match!
 
41mm fork conversion but tried to retain original look of headlight. Had to make longer aluminum spacers to fit the span of the 41s. (Fastened with replated correct bufos)



Needs brake cable retainer bolt and re route of cable.


Scored the speedometer off marks vintage swap meet

 
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