• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

87 510 TE Value

Common advice on the internet is to avoid oil that has energy conserving in the bottom of a circle thing on the container. I have used mobil 1 with the red cap and it does not have that energy conserving type like the more common oils with 20 or 30 as the higher number. I have not needed to buy any lately and not sure if things have changed.
 
And a bigger point, is not so much, who's oil it is, as long as it's not recycled crap, but to change it a lot.

There's only a tiny screen as a filter, and that motor runs hot, so change it often.
 
husky recommended bel ray for the a/c because of the temps experienced inside. normal oils wont cut it. not sure how the w/c models were specced. wait! ill look... yep still recommending the bel ray racing oil. i wouldnt use anything but a full syth top 4 stroke oil. lots of expensive parts whirring around in there
 
Another trick I discovered while owning a KTM 620, if you want to bump start a big four stroke without an auto decompressor, find TDC with the kick starter, ease past TDC, then start rolling, when you let the clutch out you have a full engine revolution to gain momentum before hitting the next compression stroke.
I could do this while rolling slowly, standing on the pegs with my left foot working the kickstarter with the clutch in, then when I gained a little momentum just release the clutch (third gear) and bounce on the seat similtaneously, worked every time!
The reason I worked this out, was if I used the decompression lever, it would break the 6mm bolt on the cam cover adjacent to the decompressor lever on the head.
Tony.
 
I have owned a 1987 510 Cross Country since 1988 and the very best advice I can give is run top quality oil and change it very often. I run Spectro petroleum/synthetic blend oil and change it every 2 to 3 rides. Oil is cheap compared to 510 parts and it doesn't hold that much anyway.

Starting can be a pain with the stock Delorto carb. The original owner sold me the bike after he grew tired of not being able to start it. It would start most every time cold, sometimes when hot and practically never if warm. I screwed around with various starting techniques for about a year until I got the idea to switch carbs. Installed a 38mm Mikuni flat slide carb and starting problems were SOLVED!! It now starts in 2 to 3 kicks hot, cold or anywhere in between.
 
I always found the 510s to start very easily hot or cold. They do require a specific technique for cold and a different one for crashes. Normal hot starts with out a crash were always very easy. I still have 2 510 but have been thinking about selling the 1987 since I do not get to ride them very much.
 
I took the forks apart on this 86 and it seems that there is an adjustable screw,spring and ck valve. Is it supposed to be adjusted and is this for rebound damping. I turned it in all the way and the rebound is definitely slower than my 82 forks which has been an issue.
 
The Dellorto carb on this 86 510 now siphons fuel out the left vent next to the choke. Also hard to start hot. This carb is like new inside. Low mi bike. No crud and floats set. Which Mikuni Flatslide works with 4stroke? 38 or 40 and aren't the TM's for two strokes? I was liking the bike but now I do not feel like always babysitting the carb to start the bike. I may consider a trade for 250XC twin shocker or?
 
the floats jam easily esp. after being pulled apart. give the float bowl a good few taps. If that doesnt work check your needle and seat
 
If the siphoning is after a crash just turn the choke on and then off that should stop it. If you worked on the carb I always found it best to reassemble it upside down to prevent the issue.
 
Where to get jets for Dellorto PHM carb. My jetting is Main 170 Pilot 52 Choke 60 450ft above sea level. I have to run the mixture screw tight all the way in for engine to run clean but does not start warm or hot. I feel the main and maybe the pilot are too large. I found the stk spec was M 150 Pilot 52 Choke 60 unless you guys have a better source for stk jetting.
 
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