• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 95 WR360 Rebuild/Restoration

what bout powerseal usa for recoat? $450 high isn't it but dollar no good I spose. was that including postage both ways? what do electrosil charge?
 
I'll get onto that then. I'm in Brisbane. I priced up a replate for another bike at millennium technologies a few months ago. About 450 from memory, matched to a piston that I would give them. I didn't end up replating that one. Can you guys recommend anything better?

On the topic of pistons, is Wossner still the one to beat? Also heard good things about vertex, being the oem option (i think).

If you had a manual link that would be fantastic. I'm only after something to refer to during the engine build!

Good ideas with the seatcover. I've never actually covered one, which immediately makes me want to learn haha.

Wossner pistons would be number 2 behind the long lasting OEM pistons.
 
Oem are cast though aren't they?
cast doesnt mean less quality. the stock husky pistons for years were cast mahle. top notch quality and they lasted as good as anything. an advantage of cast is tighter bore clearance as they do not expand as much. i like wossner however, they seem to hold up well.
 
Yeah the wossners hold up pretty well in my other bikes. They would be coated too yeah?

Unsure of what electrosil charge. Im trying to chase a rumour that theres a guy in brisbane that does $250 recoats :o

Yeah that exchange rate is brutal at the moment, hence why Ill try and keep as much in Australia as possible. And on that topic, one of the things I need from the states is plastics. Ive got 98/99 radiator shrouds, 92-99 MX rear fender (just screw in a number plate and light assembly), and 98/99 side panels ready to be ordered from DC plastics. I will use something a bit different for the headlight and ive got a front fender already. I dont think Im ever going to pay so much for 5 plastic panels in my life.
 
I'd just worry in a 360 if you're running 150 hours plus on a piston bout skirt cracks is all. Had gd life out of 2 vertex pistons in my 300 up to 100 hours. I'm sure they'd be fine for 150 though
 
Yeah I've heard the 360s are pretty gentle on pistons. 150 is great for a 2stroke. Maybe a ring change or two.
 
I average around 160-180hrs on a piston with 1 ring change. Since l've owned my 360, l've bored twice: 1 from a seizure caused by a lean out and 2 after reaching the "C" type piston...l'm now approaching my third rebore...not bad for an old girl!!

Really majority of modern day pistons will be great..just jet the bike correctly, change/clean air filter and quality premix and these pistons will last longer than 120hrs.
 
Well im on 190 hours on original piston i bought with the bike, 2nd set of rings.
I know its slack but everytime i try and do preventatve measures like put spare cylinder on new piston in i seized it sooo im just gunna wait till it grenades on me then put it back together.
 
Gents.

I've always worked over a chassis first because looking at a sweet roller in the shed invariably motivates me to finish the engine work!

So yeah, frame is back to bare metal for a respray in blue. Forks are disassembled for new seals and I finished the swingarm a few days ago.

While I was at it I hit the bore with some pretty fierce cleaner. The marks from the first photo have cleaned off and I've noticed something else- it's still on its original gilardoni piston with a number that matches the bore. Woah.

The hours on the motor are totally unknown but I suspect it's bugger all. So before I send it off for a replate I'm going to hone it and see what I end up with. I'm not sure if it's worth doing at this point.

I've opened up both brake cylinders now and I suspect they'll need new seals to go in.

Here's what killed it
144672771582323151492.jpg

Anyone know how to fix these? For the life of me I can't work out how the cable comes out! 1446727818295312970804.jpg
 
I got a line on a lectron carb, $530 to my door. Ouch. I'm still keen however, if not for the improved performance then for the mechanical novelty haha.

There's some nice alloy underneath the flaking engine cases, so off with that.

14472412101241802219028.jpg

Getting this finished is painful. Blowtorch, paint stripper and wire brushes.
1447241414715-293167291.jpg

Starting to track down some bits and pieces also. Chain rollers, grips, chain, sprockets ect. My experience with old husabergs is coming in handy for finding parts from other bikes that will fit haha.
 

Attachments

  • 1447241327851-1312648873.jpg
    1447241327851-1312648873.jpg
    82.2 KB · Views: 4
when i stripped the paint from mine, a pressure washer was invaluable. put the stripper on, let it soften the paint, hit it with the pressure washer and not much of anything left on the frame.

sure was a lot of paint chunks everywhere else, though...
 
What is the best paint stripper? Nitro mores was the daddy in uk till all the eu bullcrap took over now its as effective as toothpaste.
It used to burn skin on contact now i use it as a moisturiser!
 
used to be able to get all the good chemicals here, but the EPA and everyone else stepped in... now toothpaste might be an effective alternative to half of what's available off the shelf.

i have a gallon of some soy based stuff... made for removing house paint... but hell it works pretty good for automotive/enamel/urethane paints. just have to let it set for 24+ hours where its warm. not like the old stuff that'd start stripping the paint off of everything within a 5 foot radius right when the can was opened :D
 
Gents.

I've always worked over a chassis first because looking at a sweet roller in the shed invariably motivates me to finish the engine work!

So yeah, frame is back to bare metal for a respray in blue. Forks are disassembled for new seals and I finished the swingarm a few days ago.

While I was at it I hit the bore with some pretty fierce cleaner. The marks from the first photo have cleaned off and I've noticed something else- it's still on its original gilardoni piston with a number that matches the bore. Woah.

The hours on the motor are totally unknown but I suspect it's bugger all. So before I send it off for a replate I'm going to hone it and see what I end up with. I'm not sure if it's worth doing at this point.

I've opened up both brake cylinders now and I suspect they'll need new seals to go in.

Here's what killed it
View attachment 61772

Anyone know how to fix these? For the life of me I can't work out how the cable comes out! View attachment 61773
Just pulls straight out. The end of the cable as you can see is square brass, it receives into a square hole the screw on cap holds it. Just grip with pliers and should pull out.
Later George
 
Back
Top