• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

Adding a brake light to a 77 WR250 w/Femsa ?

R

redman

Husqvarna
AA Class
This seems so simple, but would like to double check my thinking. My 77 WR250 has a Femsa ignition w/only 3 wires (black, yellow, and green). Black goes to the coil under the tank, yellow goes to the headlight, and the green goes to the taillight. Do I just tap into the green wire and run it through a brake light switch back to the taillight? I have a dual element taillight (#1157 dual element bulb w/ brake and taillight).

Thanks, John
 
The wattage of the brake light can sometimes cause every light to go dim or out when activated if it exceeds the total wattage output of the generator. I added a brake light to an old KDX, and it was fine if I used the bike during the day, and not running the lights. At night was another matter. The bike's total wattage output was 35 watts....just enough to run the head and tail light. The brake light pulls a lot of wattage. Just saying. So if your system doesn't include a rectifier and battery, it will be putting large and sudden drain on the generator.
 
Thank you Crashaholic. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at reading electrical schematics. It kind of looks like I should only use the green wire for a taillight. If I want a brake light I should use the headlight (yellow) wire for the switch? I may just forget about the brake light? I know back in the day I had a brake light wired in somehow.
 
I would TRY it the way you mentioned in the first post. See how it looks. Might not be brighter but still a visible brake indication.
 
grouty, that is definitely on my wish list, but as you said they are pricey. Maybe you can help me understand the difference between the AC and DC units and which one would be better?? Do you need a battery for the DC unit?

Thanks, John
 
I fitted the DC unit to mine as I wanted a decent horn and maybe the odd add on gizmo. Most of the AC horns I tried were awful. DC sounds better. (we need all this in the UK to make them road legal).
You do not need a battery with either the AC or DC systems. The AC kit comes with a voltage regulator to stop you blowing bulbs with excess voltage when you rev it. The DC system comes with the regulator and also a rectifier that converts the AC produced by the alternator to a DC current. DC is also happy to run LED bulbs should you wish to. The rectifier is a bit of a pain to locate under the tank on a 77/78 ML frame. I put mine on a bracket under the seat near the filter box.
The quality of the system is light years better than other aftermarket units (ask me how I know !!!). So in my eyes well worth the extra money.
If you want to see what happens when you fit an Electrex World system, hunt down my thread about my Husky Auto build !
 
So, DFA, it looks like you installed the DC unit also?? I'm feeling confident this will be my next purchase.

John
 
Yeah John, It was in my bike when we met in Paxinos. Worked well until i fell off camber and the bike had to be towed, my first enduro!! DNF!!!:applause:
 
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