• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Air intake pod mod

G

Greg Herbers

Husqvarna
Hey guys, I have printed the 13 pages of detailed pod mod for the TR 650, and I have purchased the filter, silicone tube and connector. This article was written in 3/13, and I see their are a number of updates, and opinions regarding removing the airbox, cutting the airbox, cutting a larger hole in the base for the silicone tube to fit over the throttle body, and cutting for the fuel rail.
Is there a definitive, or updated procedure for this mod?
Thanks, loving the TR so far, and this café husky is a valuable place for info.
Greg
 
Greg Herbers said:
Hey guys, I have printed the 13 pages of detailed pod mod for the TR 650, and I have purchased the filter, silicone tube and connector. This article was written in 3/13, and I see their are a number of updates, and opinions regarding removing the airbox, cutting the airbox, cutting a larger hole in the base for the silicone tube to fit over the throttle body, and cutting for the fuel rail.
Is there a definitive, or updated procedure for this mod?
Thanks, loving the TR so far, and this café husky is a valuable place for info.
Greg
Click to expand...

For me, I only cut the lid. Removed the rubber grommet around the throttle body to trim it before refitting, this negated the need to cut clearance for the fuel rail as the remaining rubber supports the air box and allows enough throttle body to be exposed for the silicone hose to clamp to. Found that the silicone hose end that connects to the throttle body needs to be cut quite short and close to the start of the bend, make sure you use good quality hose clamps. I used a scrap piece of pipe to help cut the rubber grommet and silicone hose nice and square (think this info was posted in the original thread). Also use the American pod filter, believe the angle is different to the Australian one.
 
Thanks Geeza. Are you the one who put this on you tube? Is this the same mod?
On another subject, has anyone tried that 3D airbox modification? Was it AM.E who was making the parts?
Greg
 
Make sure you do your homework on the 3d mod. There are problems with some (not all) of the printed 3d frame breaking. The Pod Mod was posted by me on Cafe Husky and High Five on ADV. You can cut the air box lid without removing it from the bike. The butterfly on the throttle body remains closed when the bike isn't running. Any debris that gets in there can easily be vacuumed out without harm to the bike. As for the air box door, my opinion is leave it in place and look into to Geezas pool sock mod as a prefilter. Having an open air box invites water ingestion in my opinion, but that's just me. Dirt will be caught by the filter pod but ramming water into the box and thus the pod filter at speed is another story.
 
drzcharlie said:
Make sure you do your homework on the 3d mod. There are problems with some (not all) of the printed 3d frame breaking. The Pod Mod was posted by me on Cafe Husky and High Five on ADV. You can cut the air box lid without removing it from the bike. The butterfly on the throttle body remains closed when the bike isn't running. Any debris that gets in there can easily be vacuumed out without harm to the bike.
Click to expand...


Before cutting the airbox lid I put a cabletie tight around the throttle and brake to make absolutely sure the throttle did not get absolutely bumped .
 
Just did this mod after a broken 3D filter mod. was discovered. I did as others here have stated. Pull the left side plastic, covering air box. Then with all the screws still in air box used a keyhole saw to cut an opening in the air box. Remove three screws an you are in. I think this part of mod can be done in about thirty minutes, but as drzcharlie says I still need to work on pre filter.
 
Greetings everyone. Is there a way to access the cylindrical foam filter I am seeing in these "pod mod" youtube vids without cutting the plastic apart? My mechanical savvy may not be what some have on this forum, but at least I could clean and re-oil the filter periodically. Thanks!
 
you can remove the airbox lid to access the foam filter. Imho the proper way of doing it but more cumbersome and time consuming.

There are other options that retain the original filter or use a Unifilter foam filter. Main culprit of the original set up is that the original filter only seals on 3 sides. The seal at the upper side of the filter is inappropriate. I have modified the airbox to improve the seal at the upper side and while i had the airbox apart replaced the rubber seal on the outer edge with a thicker one and put a seal at that divider inside the airbox. Still using the original paper filter which i prefer over foam filters. I feel it's important to grease the airfilter seals to improve sealing and help it to slide into place properly when mounting it. I also added the missing o-ring seal at the AIT sensor. Since then the airbox is clean. I've put a peak hole into the airbox lid just above the throttle body so i can inspect the inside easily when i feel the need.
 
I had a K&N Filter for about 8-9k miles. I ride some very dusty roads (70% of my riding is of pavement), almost always behind another rider, and when I finally did the pod mod I found the interior of the air box to pretty darn clean. If I hadn't already cut the air box and been sitting on all of the parts for the pod mod I might have skipped it.

The pod mod give a bit of piece of mind since you make it impossible for dirt to bypass the filter. Have had the bike since new, and hope to ride it for a long time... so it was worth it for me. Combine the pod mod with a pre filter and the thing that finally kills your engine won't be dust.

Word of advice if you do pod mod it: Even if you accidentally pull the rubber spacer for the throttle body out when doing the surgery you can cut the "rubber circle" with a blade and then just put it back into place under the airbox. That's what I had to do, because the spacer pulled out when I was prying and cutting the excess rubber to make the silicone hose fit snugly.

If you don't ride much dirt... put a K&N on that thing and forget it.
 
Next said:
I had a K&N Filter for about 8-9k miles. I ride some very dusty roads (70% of my riding is of pavement), almost always behind another rider, and when I finally did the pod mod I found the interior of the air box to pretty darn clean. If I hadn't already cut the air box and been sitting on all of the parts for the pod mod I might have skipped it.
Click to expand...

Yep, I inspected my airbox regularly for the first 4000 km of mixed riding and came to that conclusion - waste of time and $$

Next said:
If you don't ride much dirt... put a K&N on that thing and forget it.
Click to expand...

Yep, did that at 2500 km and it works - inside of airbox at 8000 km is still clean as a whistle.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top