ALL TR650's NEED THIS - Introducing the ERUPTION!!!

[tr650bt]

Guys - I would be willing to build anyone an "ERUPTION!!!" free of charge. Just send me:

- the correct 8 thermisters (Digi-Key is a great place to get them)
- an IAT
- and a box or padded envelope with return postage (ask them at UPS, Fed Ex or USPS how to do this)

I will supply the shrink tubing.

I am a veteran electronics tech with over 30 years of soldering experience in the aerospace and HVAC industries. I can build these in my sleep.

I should be able to turn one around in 3 days max. The actual build time should be around 30 minutes.

I just bought a Strada and it has the dreaded stalling problem pretty bad. I am willing to do this as a service to the Terra/Strada community.

Feel free to e-mail me and I can give you more info and even my phone number if you are not sure.

dankeifer@yahoo.com

Take care - Dan

UPDATE 10-16-13: I installed my eruption last night. Works great so far.
UPDATE 12-2-13: I have been riding in pretty cold weather (mid 30's F) and the bike runs really rich and sputters a bit until really warmed up. The yellow engine light lights up intermittently too. I guess this is the only downside to the IAT mod. I'm looking forward to spring and warmer weather.

HI, I believe I am Dan's first taker on his offer to build the spoofer.
I want to thank Dan for his contribution to this community and say that anyone looking to have their spoofer built properly and in a timely manor should not hesitate to let Dan do the work. The mod has worked great so far and completely resolved the low RPM stalls.

 

[duibhceK]

Thanks for the detailed explanation run-it. It has been most helpful.

I think you may be missing this important detail, the original 5k NTC (or any other) has a non-linear temperature / resistance curve. This means you can't just add anything in series or parallel & get a consistent temperature offset (no matter what the real outside temperature is). This is the trick. You will see what I mean if you start looking at the T/R tables & doing the math.

Yes, I noticed that when I first looked at your tables. But when I did the calculations based on your numbers I noticed that 2 5K NTCs in series followed the original T/R curve pretty closely between 10C and 40C but with a -15C offset. It was hard to tell precisely with the 5C jumps in the numbers in the table. And there were no figures below -5C so no way to tell what the effect would be of a -15C offset below a true temp of 10C.
So I did some googling and took the detailed numbers of an 5k NTC that matched your measurements of the TR NTC and then worked from the assumption that it would also match below -5C. That showed a slightly different picture. At real temperatures between 10C and 40C the serial setup does indeed show a relatively consistent -15C offset (well -14C to -16C, but that would be close enough to my taste). But outside that range the differences are bigger, ranging from -13C at 0C to -17C at 50C.
I guess If you don't ride in winter (so not outsidethe 10C to 40C range ) the serial setup would be a viable setup resulting in a 4-4.5% richer mixture. Below 10C though the effect might be less noticeable.

If you can wait I'll help you find something, it's sorta low on the priority list right now, also there are some smart electrical / electronic guys here that unlike me could come up with something without breaking a sweat.

No rush, knowing myself it will still be quite some time before I actually start doing the work And I can do some research myself. It looks like it will be based on the eruption mod, but I might still do some research on finding an NTC (or set of) to put in parallel with it.

 

[Pacificus]

I'm finally ready to mod my IAT. The problem is, I can't find it! Is it actually inside the air box, and if so how exactly should I access it? The closest thing thus far I've found that might be it (but I'm 90 % sure is't as it has a different profile to the unit pictured in this thread) is shown in the image, below. It was located suspended directly above the cylinder head by cable tie:

 

[drzcharlie]

It's under the air box, left side of the bike (you are on the right side), behind the frame. Get a good light, look up under the frame and air box.

This is the plug the AIT is plugged into. Note where it is hanging down toward the rear of the engine head. You will find it slightly further back toward the rear of the bike. There is a spring clip holding the plug to the AIT be careful when you slide it loose as the spring clip will go flying (ask how I know). You do not need to take it off the plug just push it loose and it only has to move about 3/16 of an inch. Once you have the clip loose just wiggle the plug and the AIT apart. You'll have to look at it to figure out how.

This is what the stock AIT looks like out of the bike

This is where it came from (looking straight up)

 

[Pacificus]

Many thanks, Charlie. I found it and have now removed it - as awkward as it was. Now to get a saw and go past the point of no return!

 

[run-it]

Many thanks, Charlie. I found it and have now removed it - as awkward as it was. Now to get a saw and go past the point of no return!

Thanks Charlie.

I've updated the original post. I had a link in the Q&A section showing the location but it went bad.

http://highfive.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Terra-Mods/i-jZncrKq/0/L/DSC08323-L.jpg

Credit HighFive.

 

[Pacificus]

run-it, you wrote: " tin your leads first". What exactly do you mean by that, please? I'm asking out of prudence; what I think you mean is apply solder to the two small wires of the IAT first and not the two coils of the eight new thermistors. Also, should those two wires be wrapped around the coils of the thermistors or just soldered on to them straight? Thanks.

 

[run-it]

run-it, you wrote: " tin your leads first". What exactly do you mean by that, please? I'm asking out of prudence; what I think you mean is apply solder to the two small wires of the IAT first and not the two coils of the eight new thermistors. Also, should those two wires be wrapped around the coils of the thermistors or just soldered on to them straight? Thanks.

It just means to put a thin coat of solder on (all four of) the bare wire ends before soldering them together. You don't have to but it's a common practice.

I didn't twist the final connection before soldering, wasn't enough wire to twist, just laid the bare bosh lead over the twisted ends of the thermistors & soldered.

 

[Pacificus]

Many thanks, run-it. I installed the modified IAT yesterday and rode just under 55-miles with it. The difference is profound; it is much more responsive (in lower revs); less likely to stall and thus safer. I am very grateful for your posts on it.

A couple of issues did arise, however: the bike vibrated more noticeably while ticking-over, and also at speed, specifically upper-50s to around 60 mph. It is 'thumping' a lot more, and does feel that it is using a sledgehammer to crack a nut!

I rode 54.6-miles and burned 3.8 l of fuel. That works-out as 65.4 mpg (imperial), which was disappointing. Previous measurements showed fuel burn at around 70 mpg, so this is a significant difference.

Now I'm wondering if there is a way to program the management system to provided enriched fuel in the lower revs (or to around 30 mph) only and to leave the mixture as it was without the mod for higher speeds to improve fuel burn. An automated means of doing this would be idea, but I would be willing to compromise and flick a switch in order to vary temperature information (to switch between the mod and original IAT). Could such a thing be done on-the-fly or could such a switch only be made when the bike is switched-off, as opposed to doing 50 mph along a motorway?

I wonder if the PowerCommander would achieve what I described above?

 

[Next]

Pacificus, The Wuka plug has a switch that allows you to switch from "a little more fuel" to "a little more, more fuel". This could be used the way you describe, but in the 6 months I've had mine I just set is and forget it based on outside temps like he recommends. No complaints.

PCV (Power Commander 5) can either be uploaded with preset maps or use a realtime tune that replaces your O2 sensor. It's called auto tune and literally tunes the bike to optimum settings at all times based on your presets and the 02 sensor info. Wuka is darn good for $85, Power Commander is better for $600(ish).

With either one of these I think you would need to replace your "Eruption" sensor with a stocker.

 

[run-it]

Many thanks, run-it. I installed the modified IAT yesterday and rode just under 55-miles with it. The difference is profound; it is much more responsive (in lower revs); less likely to stall and thus safer. I am very grateful for your posts on it.

A couple of issues did arise, however: the bike vibrated more noticeably while ticking-over, and also at speed, specifically upper-50s to around 60 mph. It is 'thumping' a lot more, and does feel that it is using a sledgehammer to crack a nut!

I rode 54.6-miles and burned 3.8 l of fuel. That works-out as 65.4 mpg (imperial), which was disappointing. Previous measurements showed fuel burn at around 70 mpg, so this is a significant difference.

Now I'm wondering if there is a way to program the management system to provided enriched fuel in the lower revs (or to around 30 mph) only and to leave the mixture as it was without the mod for higher speeds to improve fuel burn. An automated means of doing this would be idea, but I would be willing to compromise and flick a switch in order to vary temperature information (to switch between the mod and original IAT). Could such a thing be done on-the-fly or could such a switch only be made when the bike is switched-off, as opposed to doing 50 mph along a motorway?

I wonder if the PowerCommander would achieve what I described above?

Yes - you can do this. See post #78 for a wiring diagram, nix the pictured switch & use a SPDT switch between the two thermistors & use a 5kNTC value for the second thermistor, I can draw it out if you like.

So now you'll have a switch & a second thermistor just like the WK but you'll have the advantage of having ACCURATE 20C & 0C offsets no matter what the outdoor temperature.

 

[James Rideout]

I have a new found respect for dealers.

I guess Canadian dealers are just as fed up with Husky North America as the consumers are.

Got a call from my dealer today. He told me to either bring him my Terra or the air temp sensor.

He is going to trade mine with an "Eruption" modded sensor.

That is great service. I may need to buy a new helmet or something from them now.

 

[glitch_oz]

I have a new found respect for dealers.

I guess Canadian dealers are just as fed up with Husky North America as the consumers are.

Got a call from my dealer today. He told me to either bring him my Terra or the air temp sensor.

He is going to trade mine with an "Eruption" modded sensor.

That is great service. I may need to buy a new helmet or something from them now.

WHOW!!
That pretty much goes entirely against the grain of my own experiences with dealers over the last 15 years.
Lucky YOU....buy the helmet! :-)

Just in case....if someone in AUS wants an "Eruption" (now, that came out great, didn't it?), I've got all the stuff incl. the thermistors already pre-prepped for a 1day turnaround if someone wants to send me their IAT.
Got the thermistors from the US and bought a pack of 25 as the postage was more than the product....this is the last batch-of-8 to make up one more unit. It's $35 (within $1 of cost-price for materials) plus postage, which is minimal (use a re-usable padded bag, so it's postage only)

PM for details

 

[run-it]

I have a new found respect for dealers.

I guess Canadian dealers are just as fed up with Husky North America as the consumers are.

Got a call from my dealer today. He told me to either bring him my Terra or the air temp sensor.

He is going to trade mine with an "Eruption" modded sensor.

That is great service. I may need to buy a new helmet or something from them now.

There you have it... THE ONLY spoofer that's Husqvarna Dealer approved!

 

[drzcharlie]

It's user approved for sure. I need to get those other thermistors and parts to put the offset Eruption in....

 

[foxracer74]

So, I just bought a 2014 Terra and it now has 4 miles on it. I'm itching to ride but the temps are so cold here in Michigan that I'm afraid of doing engine damage. Will this "ERUPTION" mod be safe at 10 degrees fahrenheit or lower?

 

[drzcharlie]

I've ridden at 5* with mine, no problems except trying to break my hands free from the grips.

 

[msmith345]

10*? I must be a wuss. I rode the bike to work one day last week, ended up getting stuck in the office late and by the time I was able to leave I had a 20 mile ride home in high 30's in the rain. I pulled in the garage, and haven't thought about getting on it since.

 

[run-it]

Man- you guys are tough! If it's below 60F I'm tempted just to wait a little for some warmer wx to come along, it's been a VERY warm winter here in SoCal.

The Eruption mod just increases the fuel mixture 6% in the open loop map, the same target as Booster Plug & others. The Eruption differs from those b/c it is simple & able to hit that target enrichment over wider temperature range with greater accuracy. It just happens to be cheaper & a cleaner installation too!

Riding near freezing with any of these spoofers will likely bring on the CEL, see the Q&A section on the first post. Riding w/o a spoofer expect the CEL to come on somewhere around 0F. We don't know why the engineers wanted this to happen.

The Eruption or any similar spoofer will neither protect or harm your engine from cold wx operation, it will just richen up the fuel mixture 6%.

 

[drzcharlie]

I'm not tough. Far from it anymore. However, I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!

Really, I have heated grips, heated gloves and a heated vest. I also wore a tee shirt, a long sleeve shirt, long johns, a jacket liner, a first gear winter grade jacket a balaclava under my helmet. Made all the difference but I felt like the Michelin Man.