As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
The thermostat block off devices went on the milling machines today.
Or would the plan to be use your internal "dummy" block and an external thermostat housing (ThermoBob or similar) if you want to retain a thermostat
I would be very interested in being your guinea pig. I've been waiting for you to announce this.
So, if we remove the thermostat we would have constant flow across the radiator?
So does the thermostat allow hot water to flow directly to the cold output side, bypassing the heat exchanger?
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So does the thermostat allow hot water to flow directly to the cold output side, bypassing the heat exchanger?
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Here is a quick crude sketch of what it could look like. Should be easy to turn on a lathe. I do not think an o-ring on the inside is needed, might be better to not have one, to let air bubbles purge.
Some sort of design on the bottom end for removal. Maybe a threaded hole to put a handle in or even a temp sensor.
View attachment 47620
The thermostat does not, the support frame does. That is why there is no o-ring at the top of the support frame.The thermostat allows cold coolant to bye-pass the radiator, the unit is designed to allow maximum flow of coolant thru' the motor
I see what the discrepancy is now. There is supposed to be a large opening in the bottom of the thermostat like these on the 1200 models. But my thermostats are blocked off by molding not allowing water to travel past the spring. I wonder if this is why some bikes are having more issues than others.
They are supposed to look like this on the bottom:
View attachment 63513
This is exactly what l'm maching, only a few minutes on the lathe & $5 worth of marine grade aluminium, l have the dimensions for others if you have a local machine shop close by
I'll resurrect this for you Mark. The out and about topic has officially been hijacked by you after I commented on my ride. My comment about needing an extra fan did not require discussion, it was only an observation, like the sun is shining, we don't need to discuss the earth orbit and such.
In your picture you have alot of grunge. Where is that coming from? If it is on the plastic in the radiator, it must be on the inside of your engine too. I see why you may be having thermostat issues in this photo. You still need the thermostat to keep your engine as healthy as possible. And yes, over cooling is less damaging than over heating. Shouldn't have to say it.
Same as I shouldn't have to talk about pressure and the effect of containing the steam. WATER BOILS AT 100º C (212º F).
Adding glycol or any other solution to water does not change the boiling point, ever hear of distillation? Yes, that is how we extract water out of a solution of water and something else.
Pressure will contain the steam and/or vapor from expanding out into the atmosphere. But make no mistake, it is still at boiling temperature,which is a bit warm for the engine. The fan needs to come on BEFORE boiling temperature (100º C) so when the t-stat is open, it is taking cooler liquid into the engine. If the coolant flows too fast through the material being cooled, there may not be an efficient transfer of heat, depending on the coefficient of the coolant. Water is just about the best, but water does not have any anti corrosive or anti freezing properties. Yes, water freezes at 0º C (32º F)
Now I surely did not think I had to explain this to the guys here, I figured you were smart enough to know that creating a closed system and pressurizing it will allow you to take water past boiling temperature and not loose it (water) to atmosphere. Do you really think anybody here is that un educated about engines and cooling? Maybe so, because you don't seem to think a thermostat is needed in a liquid cooled motor.
Just depends on how nice you want to treat you motor. Let the grunge and sludge build up within all you want. Run it at any temperature you want, it's your bike.
For others who wish to take care of their bikes in a professional manner, use a good coolant, use a thermostat, and add the auxiliary fan for slow technical driving in hot conditions. The stock system works if you keep it clean. The design is fine, it is the implementation of some of the parts that lack durability, and the setting the fan is supposed to come on at is too high.