• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Another Speedo Button Fix

mag00

mag00

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I pulled the speedo apart to make the "paperclip" mod to my button. When I got it apart, the previous owner must have tried to fix it and the "push rod" that breaks was missing.

Scrap that mod, come up with new mod I had been contemplating. Works like a champ. May try and draw it up for a 3d printer, or if somebody else with better drawing skills want to, here is the idea. 2 peices, drop in, no glue or fabrication. These are very crude prototypes :eek:

IMG_20170916_162459817.jpg

Here is the fitment. This is held in place by the white plastic it fits into and the outside of the speedo housing once assembled. The pin is just made out of a golf tee, and the plastic part used to have copper wire wound around it. I am looking for other items that would work, but I think a 3d printed part would be more precision and look better. I originally was going to glue it, but it seems to stay in place just nice. The T is light, and the switch button is plenty strong to operate it.

IMG_20170916_162427788_HDR.jpg

More food for thought for those tempted to fix the selector button.
 
What are you going to do with the pushrod? It was previous discussed that a solution which rests on the button on the circuit board might cause premature failure of the actual button. I was thinking maybe a couple of mm of foam to keep the pushrod from always sitting on the pin, or a small spring that would hold the pushrod 1mm off the button until it was pressed ?
 
nev.. said:
What are you going to do with the pushrod? It was previous discussed that a solution which rests on the button on the circuit board might cause premature failure of the actual button. I was thinking maybe a couple of mm of foam to keep the pushrod from always sitting on the pin, or a small spring that would hold the pushrod 1mm off the button until it was pressed ?
Click to expand...

The concern is good, and was addressed and examined the very first time I tried it.

The micro switch has a very stout spring in it. The pin weighs nearly nothing.

If a person wanted to, the pusher rod could be made with a shoulder for a small plastic spring. Metal might cause issue, but a plastic laminate/layer/washer on the switch (cut hole for button) could be a solution. Finding the right diameter "Click Pen" spring would be fun.

I think depressing the button is going to cause more wear than the pin floating on the switch.

The switch itself is not a switch per se, but rather a contact that pulses the dash through function.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/97
http://tymkrs.tumblr.com/post/19734219441/the-four-pin-switch-hooking-it-up

The rubber button that you push preloads the pin, so rattling does not happen. If you add another spring or cushion it is redundant as it is all built right into the switch. Even with the preload, the button has distinct click that will not activate with bouncing. The original design preloads the switch worse than the "floating" pin. Lifting the pin will interfere with the "travel" of the pin, which is already limited some by the rubber button on top. In my first try, I can toggle using gloves. I haven't buttoned this one up yet, getting more accurate dimensions for the finished product.

Adding more pressure could cause issue with the circuit board the switch is mounted on.

I would not recommend any other parts to this solution, it is being designed to just drop in and work. Trying to keep parts as light as possible (and non conductive), using ABS so that the heat won't warp or melt it.
 
Man, I totally forgot about this project. The button works perfectly on both my bikes and my friends. I had a few made up, so yeah, I'll PM ya. Do you need the small torx for speedo disassembly?
 
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