• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Anyone do a valve adjustment on their 630?

jtemple said:
When the valves get loose, they just don't open up as far. You won't do any permanent damage by letting them go a little. You may lose a little performance, but I doubt it'll even be noticeable.
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They do start to get a bit noisy the looser they get though. Some bikes sound like a coffee can full of nuts and bolts...
 
RDTCU said:
They do start to get a bit noisy the looser they get though. Some bikes sound like a coffee can full of nuts and bolts...
Click to expand...
The last 3 bikes I've owned were known for lots of valve train noise. I'm used to it. :)
 
Got 650 miles on it so pulled the valve cover off and one of the intakes is at about .18-.19 clearance. It must be the one I can hear clicking. The others are fine.
So yeah, I need a 2.20 shim. That should set it down to .12-.13mm.
Are there compatibles for these? Or dealer only?
Somebody said Yamahas are the same?
 
9.48mm diameter? Yeah, I think that's the ticket.
Gonna get on the phone tomorrow and see if I can find one out here. I don't need a whole kit, just one to put it in spec. Should stay there for thousands of miles. I hope. :thumbsup:
Can somebody confirm this?
 
I bought a big kit of various shims from Hall's. The kit is from HotCams. It was about $90, but I have every shim size I'll ever need on hand. I figure it's a necessity, considering there's no dealer around here.
 
jtemple said:
I bought a big kit of various shims from Hall's. The kit is from HotCams. It was about $90, but I have every shim size I'll ever need on hand. I figure it's a necessity, considering there's no dealer around here.
Click to expand...
I was looking at this one, but my dealer is ~15 miles away and I can call him and he'll drop a shim in an envelope and I'll have it the next day... Only downside is that I checked valves on the Friday night before labor day and was without a bike til the next Wednesday...
 
Very helpful thread...I am hoping to check/do mine this coming weekend (I'm at 930 miles, so better get on it based on what I am seeing.) Seeking your advice on the following...

I do not currently have a garage, so will be doing this at a friends house and hope to get it all done in one visit. Given this I am trying to anticipate what range of sizes I need to order.

If I look at the Bike Bandit link above at the 9.48's, they come in size brackets, such as:

2.10 - 2.35 mm
2.40 - 2.65 mm ...and so on, about 6 or 7 ranges.

Any advice for which range(s) I should order? I do not have a Honda shop nearby, and the Yamaha shop here never has anything (nor do they seem to know anything.) Once in there I'd prefer to get it done, as opposed to having to order.

Thanks!

Eric
 
I would take the larger set with them all. The ones with the shorter ranges are a 'refill set', with 5 of each shim and no one is gonna need that many of each.
Dennis Kirk has the full range set for $56, has 3 of each size.

BTW, my one that was short was a 2.15. The others were in spec so I didn't bother to check them. They are marked: 2,15

One of those parts retrieval magnets works really well for getting the shim out of the valve bucket. Stuff a rag into the cavity so nothing can fall into it. I used a piece of coat hanger wire to pull the keeper spring from the cam follower shaft. A shop manual makes it easy to figure everything out.

I really didn't want to drain the coolant so moving the rads out of the way made it super easy.
 
Huge thanks CJ. I checked out the Dennis Kirk deal (as that sounds like a deal) but the kit of the 9.48's is 86.00 (Hotcams kit, part # 148752.) I shouldn't worry about cost...the complete kit sounds as though it's the best way to go into this to get it done in one visit to my buddy's garage.
 
Sorry, yeah, I think the $56 kit was for a smaller shim diameter for different bikes. Around $80 seems to be the going rate for the 9.48's.

Motosportz has several referrals for a shim kit but I couldn't find them on their site.
 
CJBROWN said:
I would take the larger set with them all. The ones with the shorter ranges are a 'refill set', with 5 of each shim and no one is gonna need that many of each.
Dennis Kirk has the full range set for $56, has 3 of each size.
Click to expand...

Thanks CJ I didn't catch that. The full kit is definitely the way to go so you're guaranteed to have the size you need. I searched again and both BikeBandit and RMATV have them also for around $80. They make you search by bike so plug in '09 Honda CRF450 to bring up the 9.48mm shim kit.
 
With the new (old) dual cam head on the 630, those are going to be some of the easiest valves you'll ever get to measure and/or adjust. Just make sure the cam chain cavity is blocked off with a rag or something so you don't lose a shim down that abyss. I miss that easy feature since going to the x-lite engine. Have to remove the cam to change a shim now.
 
Super easy to check and change. Got a 2.20 shim and that took up the slack in the one intake. Buttoned 'er up and put it back together, runs nice and quiet. Changed the oil, screen had a bit of crap, new filter, going with petro oil 'till about 1500, then it's amsoil all the way baby! I did not pull the clutch cover to check the internal screen. Maybe next time.

I was surprised at how dirty the oil was with 400 miles on it. I expect it to stay pretty clean now. Pulled the plug, color looks perfect.

Gee, this bike is a dream!
 
Just checked and adjusted my valves on my 700 mile 630, 3 of the four where in need of new shims as the clearance was at its max of the range, this has got to be the easist bike to adjust the valves of any I have ever owned, very impressed, adjusted all of them to middle of the range, runs noticably better now

Sethro
 
ioneater said:
With the new (old) dual cam head on the 630, those are going to be some of the easiest valves you'll ever get to measure and/or adjust. Just make sure the cam chain cavity is blocked off with a rag or something so you don't lose a shim down that abyss. I miss that easy feature since going to the x-lite engine. Have to remove the cam to change a shim now.
Click to expand...

Well said. All 4 of our TE's are a breeze.
 
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