Well, mine wasn't as 'plug and play' as yours! I had to remove the subframe to get the APT carb into position. The outside to outside measurement of the spigots (engine to air boot) is 75mm for the Mikuni and 94.5 for the APT. The body width of the carbs (end of carb rubber to end of air boot) is 53mm for the Mikuni & 67mm for the APT. Once I got the carb positioned in the intake boot and the air boot, I had to force the subframe into position while the air boot flexed in a bit. There aren't any noticeable bulges or compression wrinkles in the air boot. My throttle cable housing is a tad short so I will see about rerouting that tomorrow. I get rpm creep at full right turn.
The bike fired right up cold without the enrichment circuit opened up. Idled high so I backed it down and went for a little spin. Pulled really well but I didn't hammer it, dark was fast approaching! Seemed kind of lean so I took john01's que and turned the adjustment 3 clicks rich. While I was in the process of getting the needle engaged in the adjuster (you have to open the throttle wide open while turning the external screw to get internal components to 'mate'), the slide or spring released out of a 'bind' and subsequently my idle fell to nothing when I restarted the bike after the adjustment. The bike ran much better after the adjustment but I didn't give it much of a test in the dark!
I rode the bike prior to switching the carbs so I could get an immediate seat of the pants comparison but I was banking on that 15 minute swap! Oh well, I'll fill everyone in tomorrow! It did seem to pull harder (

with more authority

) through the gears as well as at lower rpm in a higher gear. More to come.