• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Aquiring an 85' 500AE, any advice?

mud

Husqvarna
B Class
Hey all,
I am doing some horse trading to pick up an 85' 500AE. Other than the usual used bike stuff, is there anything I should check out as far as the drive goes???? I am not getting it from the original owner, so that is going to be a bummer. I will try and look him up later.
Thanks,
 
mud;31237 said:
Hey all,
I am doing some horse trading to pick up an 85' 500AE.

Lift with your legs, not with your back... :D

Sorry, I couldn't resist. someone that has a clue will be along shortly to help you...

Later,
 
jmetteer;31244 said:
Lift with your legs, not with your back... :D

Sorry, I couldn't resist. someone that has a clue will be along shortly to help you...

Later,
:lol::thumbsup:

I clarified it a bit......
 
I have 85 AE also.When you go to start it,treat it like a big 4-stroke.Bring it up to TDC,then nuge it past TDC.Recock the KS and give it a good kick.Change the oil and keep it fresh.People have tried differant oils.Another auto freak told me to use 150wt refrigiration oil.It has worked better than anything I've tried.Get the rear brakes working good.You'll be using them.The bike is a blast,have fun.
 
To be honest,I'm not sure.A friend gave a couple gallons that he pumped out of bulk drums.If I had to take a guess I would go with mineral base
 
I have 85 AE also.When you go to start it,treat it like a big 4-stroke.Bring it up to TDC,then nuge it past TDC.Recock the KS and give it a good kick.Change the oil and keep it fresh.People have tried differant oils.Another auto freak told me to use 150wt refrigiration oil.It has worked better than anything I've tried.Get the rear brakes working good.You'll be using them.The bike is a blast,have fun.
Auto,

Still useing the refer oil in your auto?
How many hours of ride time have you put on the machine?
Have you inspected the shoes and drums?
I'm fiishing up my 86auto project now,
and would like to find an alternative oil other than Ohlins.
 
The factory used Univis J26 which is now Mobil Univis HVI 26 and now costs about $10 a liter shipped. I bought a pail several years ago and am happy I did as the price has gone up. I would dump whatever is in your bike now, put in fresh, run it a couple miles, dump that to clean out the trans, and refill with fresh. A 5 gallon pail (smallest quantity you can buy it) has 19 liters so after the flush and refill you'll have 17 changes left. The transmission shoes and drums are much more expensive and difficult to find than the oil. Here's where you can buy the oil:

http://mooreballiewoil.thomasnet.co...83?&plpver=10&origin=keyword&by=prod&filter=0
 
I have a 1984 500AE and the kickstarter slips while trying to start it. It's almost like it loses engagement, so look for that. The bike is loud, fast and beats you up pretty good with vibration. Make sure the brakes are in good shape before you take it out cause you'll need them to stop as there is no engine braking to slow you down.
 
The factory used Univis J26 which is now Mobil Univis HVI 26 and now costs about $10 a liter shipped. I bought a pail several years ago and am happy I did as the price has gone up. I would dump whatever is in your bike now, put in fresh, run it a couple miles, dump that to clean out the trans, and refill with fresh. A 5 gallon pail (smallest quantity you can buy it) has 19 liters so after the flush and refill you'll have 17 changes left. The transmission shoes and drums are much more expensive and difficult to find than the oil. Here's where you can buy the oil:

http://mooreballiewoil.thomasnet.co...83?&plpver=10&origin=keyword&by=prod&filter=0
The '85 Enduro Champion up here used an auto back in the day, fresh oil every race with inspection to keep it reliable
 
The oil that is readily available is Golden Spectro Shock Fluid Very Light. Same as Ohlin Shock fluid. This is what they came with back in the Day.
Later George
 
View attachment 14566
The oil that is readily available is Golden Spectro Shock Fluid Very Light. Same as Ohlin Shock fluid. This is what they came with back in the Day.
Later George

Thanks George, I was wondering if G.S. was the same as Ohlins. The G.S. is alot cheaper.
LOOK What I found!!!Picture 302.jpg

Getting close, still looking for Nos WR shroudsPicture 303.jpg
 
Yes the same, See someone thought they had the first skid plates with pipe guard, also mt WP guard.
Later George
 
What do you mean by WP guard?
Yes the same, See someone thought they had the first skid plates with pipe guard, also mt WP guard.
Later George
What do you mean by WP guard?

Did you make this as well?

5Ff5M65J73F93M23N5c2l9b49620edae81e22.jpg

Would love to have one for my 88 250wr.
 
Question:
I put mostly street miles on my 1985 500AE. I was riding home the other day and it started to shift differently. Not bad, just different. Actually it was better on the street. Instead of having to rev it considerably for the bike to move and shift, it started moving just off idle, almost like it was engaging 2nd or 3rd gear at low idle, but when revved, it would downshift to first and pull hard. Now maybe this is the way it's supposed to work because I have been draining 25 years of pure evil from the gearbox at each oil change. I have done 3 oil changes within the last 200 miles. I was thinking that either things are starting to free up, or a 2nd or 3rd gear spring broke. The only true way will be to open the side cover and look. Just wanted some opinions so I know what to expect. Thanks.
 
the AE500 is an aircooled made in 84 85 with 2 rearshocks after in 86 it's the first watercooled and monoshock model
if your bike is a watercooled and monoshock it's a AE430
I made an ACC500 watercooled but it's a prototype (the Silver Surfer)
and an AE250 watercooled my second prototype (the Green Lantern)
:D
 
Back
Top