Before and After - Rear Brake Assembly

[schimmelaw]

First and second photo: The stock brake rod and pedal. Brake rod has been straightened. Bent all up - hammer and concrete. Notice the wallowed out hole on the pedal and the worn down clevis pin. At that juncture the slop was considerable. Alot of downward movement at the pedal before any brakes. Fixing that is what started this whole re-do.
Third photo: The pedal where the clevis pin goes thru has been drilled for the insertion of a rubber bushing. (Cut down rubber hose - lifetime supply). The brake rod clevis pin has been welded up and filed back down to what was stock circumfrence. Also drilled and chamfered ten holes along the arm of the pedal. Why not. Small hole drilled for a "brake snake" and a large hole drilled through the top of the pedal for the brake extension mounting. Misc other parts for the rebuild: rubber bushing, couple of metal washer (changed these to nylon), long anodized allen bolt, lock nut, small barry clip and a Joker Machine brake pedal extension w/ attachment bolt.
Fourth photo: This is how eveything mounts together. Clevis pin fits through the rubber bushing in the drilled out pedal, sawdwiched between the two nylon washers. It's all buttoned up with the small barry clip on the inside. No cotter pins for me, if I can get around it. The difference is dramatic. NO SLOP! NO FREE-PLAY! Its tight in all directions and the action is smooth. Move the pedal and the brake rod moves. The long anodized bolt has been sleeved with a hose and the lock nut put on correctly. I also put a plastc screw protector on this bolt where it contacts the frame (not shown in these pictures).
Fifth photo: Side view. Metal components ready for black powder. Street-legal motard conversion in progress.

 

[HuskyT]

First and second photo: The stock brake rod and pedal. Brake rod has been straightened. Bent all up - hammer and concrete. Notice the wallowed out hole on the pedal and the worn down clevis pin. At that juncture the slop was considerable. Alot of downward movement at the pedal before any brakes. Fixing that is what started this whole re-do.
Third photo: The pedal where the clevis pin goes thru has been drilled for the insertion of a rubber bushing. (Cut down rubber hose - lifetime supply). The brake rod clevis pin has been welded up and filed back down to what was stock circumfrence. Also drilled and chamfered ten holes along the arm of the pedal. Why not. Small hole drilled for a "brake snake" and a large hole drilled through the top of the pedal for the brake extension mounting. Misc other parts for the rebuild: rubber bushing, couple of metal washer (changed these to nylon), long anodized allen bolt, lock nut, small barry clip and a Joker Machine brake pedal extension w/ attachment bolt.
Fourth photo: This is how eveything mounts together. Clevis pin fits through the rubber bushing in the drilled out pedal, sawdwiched between the two nylon washers. It's all buttoned up with the small barry clip on the inside. No cotter pins for me, if I can get around it. The difference is dramatic. NO SLOP! NO FREE-PLAY! Its tight in all directions and the action is smooth. Move the pedal and the brake rod moves. The long anodized bolt has been sleeved with a hose and the lock nut put on correctly. I also put a plastc screw protector on this bolt where it contacts the frame (not shown in these pictures).
Fifth photo: Side view. Metal components ready for black powder. Street-legal motard conversion in progress.

Great post! Great detail!
What/where is the new ano brake pedal base from?
Can you post pics of the screw protectors?
10 holes look amazing!

 

[schimmelaw]

HuskyT,
A few more photos - rear brake pedal
First photo: Top side of the brake extension and drilled pedal. I didn't take any final drilling measurements - I just went with increasing drill bit sizes until the attachment bolt fit comfortably fit through the pedal tip. I also had to grind down the left hand side of the tip of the pedal and across the top of the teeth to lower them a bit.
www.Jokermachine.com - go to "dirtbikes" - then "kawasaki/suzuki 110" - scroll down to "brake extension". Shown in billet but also comes in red. About $40.00. Kinda of high-dollar but very cool.
Second photo: Bottom side of pedal and extension. This extension came off another bike in the garage for mock up purposes for the Husky. The new extension will have much less grinding required on the back side to make it fit the stock Husky pedal tip.
Third photo: Mounted. The angle of the Husky pedal tip matches well with the angle of the pedal extension - no filing/griding here - and the pedal will remain level. As you can see there willl be no need to file/grind the upper left portion of the extension nor will there be a need to grind back as far in the extension for installation on the pedal tip.
Fourth phto: Back side of pedal assembly. Barry clip securing nylon washer. Sleeved anodized adjustment bolt (rubber hose over the exposed threads), lock nut and thread protector (these are small plastic caps in a variety if sizes at Home Depot/Loews). Sorry the details of the thread protector is not real clear - my lighter/prop is right underneath it.

 

[mattskn]

Nice looking job..I was wondering what to do to mine thanks for the idea,I don't know if I will drill the holes might make the lever prone to braking,snapping off in a crash..But still looks good and very trick...Keep posting your mods guys its just more to add to the to do list this winter..

 

[schimmelaw]

Update post powder and nickle plating.

Photo 1: Front side brake lever post black powder and nickle plated mounting hardware.

Photo 2: Drilled and powdered adjuster nut and nickled return spring.

Photo 3: Powdered rear brake actuator arm and nylock flange nut.

Its all gooooooood****************************************!! and ready for reinstall post frame powder

 

[Picklito]

Very nice job, but you know what is the best part? The way you turned the adjustment bolt around and used the screw protector!

 

[hawaii-rider]

youre a stud!

Nice Fab work!


cant wait until I get my projects going, I already have these pages bookmarked for reference






Nice work on this and everything else you are cranking out!

HR

 

[schimmelaw]

Thanks boys,
Have had the whole wk end to fart around out in the garage and put some components together from the parts which have recently been powered, anodized and plated.
Rick

 

[schimmelaw]

Rear Brake Pedal w/ Folding Tip

Got to thinking (dangerous) that a folding tip on the brake pedal might be cool and something to do. I could always use a spare right?

Anyways,

Photo 1 and 2: Shows the stocker on the left and the donor XT pedal on the right. The XT pedal has a folding tip, can be found on the bay cheap and are plentiful. Stocker was preped as the above thread - rubber bushed, drilled, some grinding and sand blasted.

How to: Heat the tip of the stocker and beat the bend out of it so that it will lay flat. Cut off the folding pedal from the XT w/ a hacksaw and clean up that cut with a grinder/file. Mount the stock pedal up on the frame to get a reference for level/how/where the tip will mount. (Want to get the tip level when the pedal is in its proper static location, otherwise the tip will sit cockeyed after it gets welded and the pedal is then put in its proper location. Don't just "eyeball" it. Ask me how I know.) Draw some lines. Vise grip the tip in its proper location based on your marks and have at it.

Photo 3: Welded up. (I should say "dobbed" up. A welder I am not, but I'm becoming a fantastic "dobber". More skill in being a welder than just putting on a weld mask and pulling the trigger.) Tip area cut, ground and filed down to look somewhat presentable. My welds are sooooo ugly - lots of grinding/filing and still more to do.

Photo 4 and 5: Parts sand blasted to clean them up. Tip mounted up. Sits at the same height as the turned up stocker. Serrated for traction. Has more surface area than the stocker. Folds in and snaps back with authority. Watch your fingers.

Powder.

 

[mattskn]

Any update pics of the bikes progression..

 

[schimmelaw]

Matt,
Nothing but parts at the present time. Nothing to take photos of. Down to the bare frame. Still building/preping components. Powder and plating are on the horizon.
Rick

 

[HuskyT]

Schimm...

Where do I find an XT tip? I 'm sure it is off some form of bike but what model etc....Sorry but am lost on this one..can you give some specific info on the XT tip?

I would like to copy you!

T

 

[schimmelaw]

HT,
Yamaha XT225, 250, 350 brake pedal. Mid 90's (?) to now. I got the idea from my wife's 2000 XT225. Ebay search is "xt brake pedal". This pedal tip was from a 225 but, it is used on a bunch of different years and models/sizes. Any of them would work. Got mine for about $10.00 plus that for shipping.
Rick

 

[Picklito]

I got the idea from my wife's 2000 XT225. Rick

Yet another reason why we should have multiple bikes in our garages!

Seriously, over the years I've 'stolen' many pieces from one bike to another. With the other bikes sitting 'right there' you get some great ideas. Thanks for sharing.