• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Bent clutch lever

Runner

Runner

Husqvarna
AA Class
Sorry guys, but I've got a noob question to ask. I dumped my 510 and bent the clutch lever. On the back side there appears to be a notch where it bent, I don't know if it came that way or if it formed upon bending.

1. I figure I have one stress reversal cycle before it breaks. What's the best way to straighten it without breaking it?

2. How does the clutch lever operate the starter interlock? I see only two screws attaching it, the screw to the clutch master cylinder, and the pivot screw. Where's the interlock located?
 
the notch is purpose built to allow the the lever to snap off at the dimple point, to prevent complete lever failure in a race/ride (its a racing derived mod).

fixing is a very touchy thing, usually the euro levers (magura/Brembo) are better at bending back. Ive used the box end of a wrench, a pipe, and have even put them in a vice and tapped them with a hammer (anyone else have a trick)

the clutch lever perch has a 2 wire switch that is circuit closed when the lever is pulled. if you dont like this sw its easy to remove and the pigtail wires terminate into male/ fem bullet connectors, so you pull the switch disconnect the wire ends and simply plug the bike wire harness male /fem bullets together and no more interlock switch.
 
You did not mention the year but, call Up-tite in Santa Ana and get the levers he sales/makes. No more bendy-brakey.
 
I've bent mine many times before and sometimes the bend feels good in my hand so I just leave it :) It you happen to snap it, just get a file and round off the end ... There is a slight safety issue here as the lever can always stick inside you after a fall easier than if it has that ball shape on the end of it ....
 
I actually like my clutch lever like that. Easy to get my hand on and off it quicker and less to get in the way.
 
If you first anneal the area to be bent the lever won't break.

If you have an acetylene torch, get a dirty flame going and put a layer of soot on the area to be bent. Then adjust the torch for a soft clean flame and slowly heat the area until the soot burns off. After the soot burns, the piece is heated to about 800 degrees F and is annealed and bending is possible with out breaking. If you have the correct temp. stick, it can also be used to get to the right temperature and a map torch can be used. Just be sure to heat slowly, because overheating will damage the lever.

The temper will return to the lever afterwards, on it's own.
 
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