• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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BEST Prices for Ti Fasteners****************************************

No Go

Well, I went and picked up a die today along with some cutting oil.....and...... it's a no go. I tried and it simply does not cut through Ti very well AT ALL. It did cut, but pretty poorly and not well enough that I would trust the threads. Now I am stuck with 20 M6 bolts needing some threads put to them, any suggestions now? Thanks!

Blake
 
You could try taking them to a machine shop and see if they will do it, but make sure to be very clear to them you want the threads perfect, and get a price up front. It could be very pricy, or a cool shop might do it for 10 bucks. Other option would be calling up ironhorse and seeing if they would thread 20 the way you like, and then send them back the 20 you have.
 
I contacted Iron Horse and that is a no go as well. They simply replied with "Nope, can't thread the rest of the way". Any idea where this "cool $10 shop" might be located Clay.....????:D
 
mxer74;20389 said:
Well, I went and picked up a die today along with some cutting oil.....and...... it's a no go.Blake
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Hey Blake,

Just wondering what type of cutting oil you bought. Cheap or wrong oil will make all the difference in the world.:confused:

But if you don't have the right one, threads are gonna turn out crappy.
If you are just using a cutting oil made for mild steel it won't work.:banghead:
Call a local machine shop that has experience working with ti and ask if they can spare a bit.
Most likely a qt. of cutting oil for ti would cost around $25:eek:
Good Luck
 
Send em my way if you like, or if you can't find a local shop to do it. Just curios, but what didn't you like about the way the threads came out. I'm assuming the die kinda ripped the threads more than cut a nice smooth thread? Did you try just threading the whole think in one shot, or did you try going a 1/4 to 1/2 turn then backing off, then another 1/4 turn and backing off again? Also a good, new, sharp die will make a world of difference preferably something that is hardened.
 
Clay,
I bought a brand new die at the local hardware store (an Irwin, which I think is a reputable brand) and my dad said NOT to do the whole thing at once, to do like 1/2 a turn in then back it out then another 1/2 and so on. You are right though with how they turned out, just not nice and neat. I just bought the only "cutting oil" they had there and it was only like $4-$5 do sounds like that might be my problem. Clay, I will give you a buzz later on tonight if that is cool. See ya.

Blake Young
 
That's why most makers "roll" their threads when finished. They make a sharp, rough edge on the top of the thread and they take that down. You might be able to clean them with a thread file.

Can you post a picture of one of the threads in question?
 
Can you post a picture of one of the threads in question?
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Yeah, that would help a little. If you are using these just to hold on plastic pieces you should be fine. You have probably already thought of this, but have you tried putting the bolts through the pieces they hold on? If the piece is a thick enough, the threads might not even show through the other side. I will be in the shop tomorrow, so feel free to call.
 
I have a die and some mean cutting fluid here at work. Not to say mine will work any better than what you have already tried. Is it a solid die or an adjustable one?

I am really surprised that it didn't cut easily, I wonder what the OD of the material measures that you are trying to cut. Is it slightly bigger than what the threads measure. That could make a big difference too. Turning some of the excess material off will help but it would be hard to do and your nice new bolt might not look so nice and new afterwards.

If these bolts are going through a cover then it really doesn't matter what the threads look like because most likely they will have no impact on the strength of the bolt. You would just be threading them to get clearance?

I hope I am understanding your situation correctly. I will be at the shop Thursday to pick up the Rig for the weekend. If you like I can take one to try but you won't get it back until after I return from GA.
 
I was looking at some M6 Ti bolts and I think what your problem is, is that the un-threaded shoulder on most of the ones I have are to large an O.D. to thread. That would explain why yours were turning out crappy. You'll have to use an adjustable die or turn the shoulder diameter down to thread them.
 
I was looking at some M6 Ti bolts and I think what your problem is, is that the un-threaded shoulder on most of the ones I have are to large an O.D. to thread. That would explain why yours were turning out crappy. You'll have to use an adjustable die or turn the shoulder diameter down to thread them.
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Yep thats what is going on with these bolts. Shoulder is too big to thread with a die, and already at the minimum OD, so turning it down to thread with the die also a no go.
 
If it's too big to thread how can it be at the min. O.D.
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Both the points of the threads and the shoulder were at .235 which is about perfect for single point threading. But both dies simply wouldn't push through it. Turned down to .22 with very little improvement. Felt like it was more likely to snap the bolt than thread it.
 
Must be some tuff CHIT!!! I'll check some numbers in the morning. So you are saying if you turn it down .005 smaller than the Major diameter, the die still does not cut... Is the minor diameter of the die the same as the minor dia of the bolt? I highly doubt you will break the bolt as long as you remove enough material to produce a 60% thread. Thats all we need right, clearance?
 
Yeah, what everyone else said! Thanks again Clay for taking a look at them, I really appreciate it. I don't know what I am going to do now with these bolts. I would think that IronHorse would be able to thread them the rest of the way because they had to thread them originally, I just don't know how they wouldn't be able to continue the threads if they put them there in the first place. Thanks again for the comments and help everyone!

Blake Young
GO HALL'S CYCLES****************************************!
 
Must be some tuff CHIT!!! I'll check some numbers in the morning. So you are saying if you turn it down .005 smaller than the Major diameter, the die still does not cut... Is the minor diameter of the die the same as the minor dia of the bolt? I highly doubt you will break the bolt as long as you remove enough material to produce a 60% thread.
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I checked the bible for major diameter limits, and max was 6.24mm min 6.0 which puts the ideal size at .240" and min at .236". Unless I was looking at the wrong set of numbers the shoulder was already under the min major diameter. Removing .015" made no noticeable difference in threading. I think these bolts were made from space metal, not Ti.:lol:

Yeah, what everyone else said! Thanks again Clay for taking a look at them, I really appreciate it. I don't know what I am going to do now with these bolts. I would think that IronHorse would be able to thread them the rest of the way because they had to thread them originally, I just don't know how they wouldn't be able to continue the threads if they put them there in the first place. Thanks again for the comments and help everyone!
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I doubt they will thread THESE bolts all the way, but you might be able to have them thread some new ones all the way, and then exchange them.
 
That's a term used for cleaning up the threads after they are cut, normally on a lathe, and have high, sharp thread peaks. Those will tend to glad (SP?) or seize in the hole. Rooling takes that peak off making for smoother threading.

I agree with cool, send them back and have them make you some that have more threads.
 
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