• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Beware all 13 redhead owners. Blown hose & more

I just checked my 13 310, the hose was rubbing on the head where the OP's was. Luckily you can move the clamp a few mm's and make it the only contact point. Metal to metal is better than a cut hose I suppose. But you couldn't slide a piece of paper between the two. Dumb design. Eliminating the thermostat and going to a TC hose setup would be beneficial.
 
brentk660 said:
Dumb design. Eliminating the thermostat and going to a TC hose setup would be beneficial.
Click to expand...

Yes. I did just that and after removing the OEM cooling hose assembly and staring at it in disbelief for 15 minutes, it found it's way in the trash pile...
11810110855_bc50984e6f_c.jpg
 
There is a thermostat in there that directs the fluid from the engine case to recirculate in the block until it reaches set temperature then once the temp is reached it opens and allows flow to the rads. I think it's more of an emissions thing than a necessity.
 
Tinken said:
I just got through changing the oil on another 310 without my drain back kit. I don't know who ever designed that rubber hose to the bottom of the engine, but that's crazy. Also there's some serious drag on the starter gears trying to pump cold 50wt oil through a paper filter, seems like another plus to thin oil and stainless filters.
Click to expand...
Drain back kit in hand and about to do my first oil change. I am assuming that the hose that runs to the bottom of the case now needs to run to Zip Ty's drain-back/fill fitting. I am planning to do this without stripping off the plastic and tank, if possible, as I'm pressed for time this week. What's the best route for the drain hose? On the left side of the header as stock, or pull out the hose and fish it down on the right side. Those who have done this want to share?
 
Well, it is obvious how to run the line once it is pulled out and cut. All is good now, except.....

My brand new Scotts SS filter seems to be a little loose. It measures the same height as the stock filter, but the grommet does not fit tight to the spigot on the filter housing lid. It is not sloppy loose, and only has barely perceptible play, but any seal will be between the flat of the lid and the flat of the grommet. I am worried that the oil might be able to short circuit. When bolting on the lid, there is no push back from the spring washer so I don't know how well the flats will seal. I wonder if I could swap grommets with the paper filter. 'May have to try that.

Tinken, or any other Scotts users, any thoughts?
 
Sorry but I use the PC version. Prior to that I used the hiflo paper type. Never tried the Scott's one. Is it specifically designed for your bike or does it say Honda CRF250x
 
The Scotts is listed for the 310. I decided in use one of my spare K&N paper filters for now and work this out with Scotts. The K&N was a little looser on the spigot than the stock (Hi Flo?) but still fit pretty well. Gotta sort this out!
 
Just make sure you use the spring behind it. Pressure so low, it's not going to go around the grommet.
 
Good news. Bike survived 2 hour race yesterday. Bike ran great. Wish I could say the same about me. I have to drain oil and coolant. Got home late last night. I think it's leaking coolant into oil. Not sure it is but I have a hunch. Looked bike over quickly and .......hope I'm wrong!
 
fire 1998, me 2 rode the western HS yesterday @ 3hr 12 mile loop 4lap race pros were on 30 min laps. TXC310R ran great and strong!! She is now offiically retired and going up for sale!!
 
Great news!! My hunch was wrong and bike is good to go. No oil or water leaks. I'm am still amazed at the beating this motor took and is still running great. 2 hour Race on Sunday and the bike ran flawless. 1 stall and it was my fault. I'm still planning on sending motor to ZipTy but am having a hard time trying to find time to take motor out, ship it and wait 3 or 4 weeks for it to be gone thru. I changed oil twice after big heat cycle. I just drained oil again after 2 hour race and it was black. The oil takes a beating in these motors at race pace. Wonder if an oil cooler would help oil survive a bit longer?
 
They get their oil extremely hot. Thinner, high flowing oil is a must.
You should steal Robert's 310R away from him.
 
Honestly, I am not sure. I know that Kelly ran his 511 for several thousand miles with 12.5cSt@100°C (10W30), but that engine has dual Eatons and is not a 310. SS filter, crank mod and opening the lower passage way, maybe. And that's assuming the oil of choice didn't fall way out of specification @150°C. Would require testing.
 
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