Brake Arcing tool

[1983XC175]

Steve, The Maico brake shoes I am starting with are oversize and need fitting, thats where the need for tool was for me. I do understand what Fran means. I could also turn the linings with this tool. I would probaly try a stone wheel instead of the carbide cutter.I have never checked a lining to see how bad they runout. Thank you all for the imput.
Bill

Even with brand new shoes and a drum within spec, some Husky brakes require a lot of cam movement to initiate contact. Therefore, the shoes need to arced to match the drum at point of contact, ie. with cam actuated/spaced as mentioned by Fran...k. If the cam requires too much movement to initiate contact it changes the mechanical advantage and creates other issues. Best to get oversize shoes and arc them to match a freshly turned drum.
Another solution, which I think Fran..k is describing, is a thicker drum liner than stock. This still requires arcing of shoes to match.
I really like the shoe arcing device pictured above. For those of use without machining equipment and skills, (or money!) shoes can be matched to drums the odd-fashioned way with chaulk, a file, and lots of patience.
Steve

 

[fran...k.]

I bougt my first husky a 1983 model in 1992 however I know quite a few folks who had them new and raced enduro and hare scrambles with them. Talk of shimming the cam is common. I couldn't really figure a way I liked to and tig welded another layer on the metal cap to the aluminum shoe which essentially did the same thing. I never had need to tamper with the dual leading shoe front ones. It is quite common for the cam to have quite a bit of movement before contact even with new shoes. What I was suggesting was that there seems more of a need to build the drum itself back to dimention. I can't say I recall seeing wear on any shoes only in the half toward the cam. Somewhere in the 1985 area they decided to add a lip to the backing plate and drum and make the shoes thinner I am not sure if that made the things last better or not. Perpaps ten yeas ago a new hub with drum was $400 and a husqvarna new 51cc chain saw was $250 which I used as part of the logic of buying a new left over bike at cheap price.

Fran

 

[Fritzcoinc]

Save the dust and do it in a lath. You just need a sharp tool so it does not dig in and break the friction material. And go slow of course. I chuck up the backing plate on the axle with the shoes mounted and use a lath dog tightened up on the axle to drive the backing plate. Cut them about .015 under the drum. After break in you will have just about 100% contact.