Brand new 2010 SM510 - Not running well, any advice?

[SilverTT]

I have a 2008 SM510 so when my friend said he wanted to get a bike also I bought a 2010 and sold him my 2008. The 2008 has the Arrow exhaust and full de-restriction done. From time to time the 2008 would back fire a bit on deceleration and would stall every once and a while but nothing that bothered me much at all.

This new 2010 I rode today, brand new bike, 0 miles, all it had done was the derestriction by the dealer which they called the "uncork". Just took off the throttle stops, charcoal canister, opened airbox and that is about it I think. It runs like crap. Has amazing power when it hits powerband but runs like crap every where else.

Starts up and idles ok (little bit jumpy from about 1800 to 2100) but then usually settles in pretty well. But it stalls on just about every stop light when coming down from high RPMs it just keeps dropping until it sort of hicups and dies out. Happens the most on throttle blip downshifts where it sounds like it bogs for a second I now have about 150 miles on it and its running even worse then when the first mile. The dealer where I purchased it is in MN and I'm in NY so I'm going to bring it in to a BMW / Husqvarna dealer in NJ and see if they can look at it.

Anyone else have this issue on a brand new SM? I'm not happy but hoping its just a tuning or A/F ratio thing at this point. Thanks for any advice.

 

[scottyk]

I have a 2008 SM510 so when my friend said he wanted to get a bike also I bought a 2010 and sold him my 2008. The 2008 has the Arrow exhaust and full de-restriction done. From time to time the 2008 would back fire a bit on deceleration and would stall every once and a while but nothing that bothered me much at all.

This new 2010 I rode today, brand new bike, 0 miles, all it had done was the derestriction by the dealer which they called the "uncork". Just took off the throttle stops, charcoal canister, opened airbox and that is about it I think. It runs like crap. Has amazing power when it hits powerband but runs like crap every where else.

Starts up and idles ok (little bit jumpy from about 1800 to 2100) but then usually settles in pretty well. But it stalls on just about every stop light when coming down from high RPMs it just keeps dropping until it sort of hicups and dies out. Happens the most on throttle blip downshifts where it sounds like it bogs for a second I now have about 150 miles on it and its running even worse then when the first mile. The dealer where I purchased it is in MN and I'm in NY so I'm going to bring it in to a BMW / Husqvarna dealer in NJ and see if they can look at it.

Anyone else have this issue on a brand new SM? I'm not happy but hoping its just a tuning or A/F ratio thing at this point. Thanks for any advice.

 

[scottyk]

Let me quess, you purchased the bike from Heinens in Osseo? My bike came the same way from them. I changed the oil right away because these bikes sit in the cold warehouse and the temp in MN fluctuates so much that I noticed water in mine. Break the bike in a little, excel, decel and you should notice better power. Be patient with it and you will be happy.

 

[dave35]

I have a 2008 SM510 so when my friend said he wanted to get a bike also I bought a 2010 and sold him my 2008. The 2008 has the Arrow exhaust and full de-restriction done. From time to time the 2008 would back fire a bit on deceleration and would stall every once and a while but nothing that bothered me much at all.

This new 2010 I rode today, brand new bike, 0 miles, all it had done was the derestriction by the dealer which they called the "uncork". Just took off the throttle stops, charcoal canister, opened airbox and that is about it I think. It runs like crap. Has amazing power when it hits powerband but runs like crap every where else.

Starts up and idles ok (little bit jumpy from about 1800 to 2100) but then usually settles in pretty well. But it stalls on just about every stop light when coming down from high RPMs it just keeps dropping until it sort of hicups and dies out. Happens the most on throttle blip downshifts where it sounds like it bogs for a second I now have about 150 miles on it and its running even worse then when the first mile. The dealer where I purchased it is in MN and I'm in NY so I'm going to bring it in to a BMW / Husqvarna dealer in NJ and see if they can look at it.

Anyone else have this issue on a brand new SM? I'm not happy but hoping its just a tuning or A/F ratio thing at this point. Thanks for any advice.

my 08 ran similiar {horrible no low down torque} until i gutted decatted my exhaust ,removed oxgen sensor,fitted powerup resistor,
feels like a differant bike now{ perfect}

 

[Fast1]

Did they put the bike into "race map" with the resistor?

 

[moto66]

Yep, had all the same problems, I think most with the SM's have. Def check you've got that bypass plug fitted - to the lead that was going to the 02 sensor. Throttle stop removed. Airscreen removed behind filter. You'll need to cut those cats out of the end cans or they will clog and it will run like a 125. Or buy some aftermarket cans. Also you'll want to give it at least 500 miles before the motor starts to free up some. And do the fuel pump mod, they can slip causing your symptoms!! It's a shed load to do but it will give you the bike you want. I'd change the gearing too as it's pretty tall. I've gone to 43/44 on the rear, or drop to a 14 front. Do these things, let her run in and you'll be fine. Maybe just a tweak at the dealers on the fuel map. Tons of good info on all the above on here. Hope that helps

 

[SilverTT]

Damn...you guys are incredibly helpful. Thank you for all the advice.

Annoying that the dealer who sells these things all day long does not know to tell you these basic instructions. I even paid $130 to have the "uncork" done and they did no more than half the job it seems. They did remove the air filter lid, take out the throttle stop, and take off the charcoal canister, but did not do the O2 sensor plug or the lamda plug. Nice guys and they helped me out with some paperwork on a tax swap that I requested. I would buy them from again because Paul and Monte are great guys, but I really wish they had told me they were doing a "1/2 uncork" instead of a proper setup.

They also told me this just yesterday, which from what I'm reading here is 100% inaccurate:

"Husky's main tech tells us he doesn't even have a race map done yet. They are working with Dyno-jet for that right now. So, we should see some stuff coming from them soon.
Husky tells us the lamda plug doesn't do anything to the bike whatsoever if it is plugged in or not."

Oh well, I don't mind doing these things myself, just wish I hadn't paid $130 for the 10 mins of labor they performed to do 1/2 the job and still left me guessing. Another reason this board is so great. Thanks again.

 

[SilverTT]

Let me quess, you purchased the bike from Heinens in Osseo? My bike came the same way from them. I changed the oil right away because these bikes sit in the cold warehouse and the temp in MN fluctuates so much that I noticed water in mine. Break the bike in a little, excel, decel and you should notice better power. Be patient with it and you will be happy.

Hey Scott / others - Is this the oil you guys are running? In the 10W 50 weight?

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9021703&contentId=7040544

 

[Fast1]

Damn...you guys are incredibly helpful. Thank you for all the advice.

They also told me this just yesterday, which from what I'm reading here is 100% inaccurate:

"Husky's main tech tells us he doesn't even have a race map done yet. They are working with Dyno-jet for that right now. So, we should see some stuff coming from them soon.
Husky tells us the lamda plug doesn't do anything to the bike whatsoever if it is plugged in or not."

Who told you that at Heinens? Paul knows all about the Huskys inside and out. Something tells me the mechanic forgot to put the bike into race map mode with the plug, plain and simple. Doesn't the 2010 version come right from the factory with the OEM race map plug?

 

[moto66]

Hey Scott / others - Is this the oil you guys are running? In the 10W 50 weight?

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9021703&contentId=7040544

I'm using Motul 5100 synthetic, 10W 50W. Husky were recommending the 10W 60W but I spoke to my dealer and he said the 10/50 is fine and sells this for this bike.

 

[moto66]

Who told you that at Heinens? Paul knows all about the Huskys inside and out. Something tells me the mechanic forgot to put the bike into race map mode with the plug, plain and simple. Doesn't the 2010 version come right from the factory with the OEM race map plug?

As far as I'm aware the 10's came the same as the 09's. Some minor mods like lights and fixing changes but not factory preset with the 02 sensor or any of those commonly called 'power up/PU' conversions done.

 

[SilverTT]

Who told you that at Heinens? Paul knows all about the Huskys inside and out. Something tells me the mechanic forgot to put the bike into race map mode with the plug, plain and simple. Doesn't the 2010 version come right from the factory with the OEM race map plug?

Yep...in the box is the bronze O2 plug for the exhaust plug of the O2 sensor hole and the small electronic "lambda" plug. Where the confusion comes in is what this actually does. I got that note back from Heinens and it was either Paul or Monte who wrote it and it pretty clearly says the lamda sensor does nothing. I'm going to do it tonight if I have time to ride or on Sunday and will post my results. Thanks guys for replies.

 

[BILLF]

After the PU plug is in you will still need to jack up the % 10-15% at the shop with IBEAT to make it correct.We have had a couple with partialy blocked injector that caused lean surge and we had to raise up the mix to compensate for it until we got that figured out.

 

[Fast1]

I know it wasn't Paul because I've seen him personally on (riding) a few SM510Rs and he knows how to both ride them and make the bike run right. I suspect they left it up to you to put it in "race" map since some dealers won't honor the warranty if this is done and your are not located near Heinens.

I assume your bike will transform itself once you get that "lambda" plug installed. Hang on tight!

 

[GUTZY]

I know it wasn't Paul because I've seen him personally on (riding) a few SM510Rs and he knows how to both ride them and make the bike run right. I suspect they left it up to you to put it in "race" map since some dealers won't honor the warranty if this is done and your are not located near Heinens.

I assume your bike will transform itself once you get that "lambda" plug installed. Hang on tight!

+1

 

[SilverTT]

Thanks guys. Hopefully Paul will get back to me at some point and help me sort out the ECU.

 

[scottyk]

Good Luck with him calling you back, I'd bet you he doesn't.

 

[moto66]

I've made several changes to my 510 since fitting the PU kit.

She was running REALLY rich post PU (which ditches the O2 (lambda)) sensor and the cats and the pipe internals/spark plug were sooty black. I don't think doing the PU mods without changing or freeing up the breathing of the cans, is a good idea. The bike will run rich, that will in turn cause it's own problems. So I've gutted the cans and fitted a straight through but baffled tube in each can and fitted a K&N filter. Because of that I'm booking a dyno run to see the AFR is good - more than an HP test.

I'm interested in the Power Commander and Autotune option and they get good reviews, but if I can get a decent set up that suits my riding off the dyno runs with the PU'd ECU, then I'd rather save the bucks.

 

[jlk_250]

Thanks guys. Hopefully Paul will get back to me at some point and help me sort out the ECU.

I read the thread and it sounds like you need to install the O2 sensor delete plug and get some miles on it, same as any other FI SMR. Doesn't sound like an ECU problem or anything you need dealer help with at this point.

 

[SilverTT]

Quick update to this post.

I pulled the bike apart on Thurs night to do the O2 plugs, lamda sensor, oil change and refit a bunch of 7602 racing parts to make oil changes and stuff easier going forward.

The 02 plug / lamda sensor COMPLETELY transformed the bike. As others have said it is like a totally different bike. From the second I hit the starter button the bike settled in to a nice consistent idle and runs incredibly well now. No more stalling on throttle blips or popping on deceleration or stalling at lights. Basically the bike is running like it should have been on day one now.

Also changed the oil and found a couple metal scrapings on the oil screens and the oil itself was pretty disgusting - brownish and somewhat clumpy in parts after only 100 miles of light riding...so anyone who is buying one of these 2010 leftovers I would change the oil immediately. After putting in some Castrol Race 10W 50 and running another 150 miles this past weekend the oil still looks brand new through the oil check window.

Lastly, for anyone who is looking for a great tire, we installed the Avon Distanzas and I can't say enough good things about them. We ran the NJ Pine Barrens 300 mile ride this weekend through all kinds of very deep sand, wet, puddles, mud - and while the Distanza is not a full knobby it hooked up amazingly well for a dual sport tire. I was really, really impressed. Given the light weight of the Husky and ridiculous power I was able to get through sections that guys on XR 650s and KTMs with full off road knobbies were having trouble crossing. The distanzas rock.

I'm still looking for a 21" off road knobby for any deep sand rides since the 17" Distanza is a bit slippery in deep sand or really wet mud but for any other hard pack, dry rocky, or fire trail type riding the Distanzas performed incredibly well. And I agree with others, the Distanza is at least as good as the stock SM 510 rubber on the road, if not better. Great tire.