• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Break in and performance

It just likes to be spanked! Some bikes like to be lugged around...this isn't one of those. Now it will....you can chug down low...just expect to use the clutch a bit. The bike likes 4500 and above...that's the sweet spot. You'd think with five gears it'd be picky as to which gear your its in but there's where it'll surprise you. It seems happy in a couple....depending on your need for pace. Letting the bike idle awhile seems to help it run smoother. I believe if it's spent time being towed you'd be wise to allow it to idle a few minutes too. I reckon the ECU compensates for elevation changes...gotta love F/I!

I total agree here the bike need to be ridden, 4k is the sweet spot on my bike. It has no torque at the low rpms, but spin it up and she will respond. I must be lucky after reading about the rough running bikes, mine is completely stock and runs pretty smooth. 50/50 tires are my next upgrade.
 
WRT to breaking the engine in , I take it the original oil is fully synthetic. I am now after 3 days of owner ship ( ..:banana:) about to do the obsessive early change.
I generally believed that fully synthetic would reduce the bedding in of piston,rings /cylinder . BMW strongly suggested that dino oil be used until at least 10,000 km for the 1200 boxer. I didnt used synthetic until 30,000 km for the R1200R (yep took that long for oil use to resolve to nil.)
I s the Rotax engine different .
I am just about to get some castrol Racing 1 Synthetic. Thoughts would be really appreciated...I am on the bottom of the learning curve..and loving it.

BTW soon to decide om which ... bash plate/bars/rad guard/centrestand/ maybe Safari tank/ Luggage rack, soft bags/ soft bag pannier frame / power accessory plug/ ?bark busters/ ... figure about $2100 to $2300 Analyzing thru every bit of anecdotal info I can get. Thanks for all those who post their experiences.
 
WRT to breaking the engine in , I take it the original oil is fully synthetic.
Although the owners manual lists Castrol Power1 Racing SAE10W-50 as the recommenced oil, this does not mean it was its factory fill. I agree with your point about not using a fully synthetic oil to bed in. I left my original oil in the engine until the 1,000km service as specified and then changed over to Mobil 1 4T.
 
Although the owners manual lists Castrol Power1 Racing SAE10W-50 as the recommenced oil, this does not mean it was its factory fill. I agree with your point about not using a fully synthetic oil to bed in. I left my original oil in the engine until the 1,000km service as specified and then changed over to Mobil 1 4T.

Thanks aus.. I guess the original fill is important.. Very hard to go back to dino oil from Synthetic . I wonder what went in first up.
Maybe I should ask my helpful shop?! %^#(*(%$@ see if they vaguely remember. Probably put olive oil to save a few bucks.
 
I read in the manual that I can expect better performance after the 1000km break in period. Is there an electronic safety built in for this? I find the bottom end very weak on this bike. Thanks.
I had my Strada re MOSSed after break in and first service. It felt stronger and smoother, even the shifting action felt better with the fresh oil. This thing has a top end rush, I had a chance to rev it out through the gears last week. It has satisfactory grunt down low, but my last bike was a Suzuki DRZ 400 SM, so that is my point of reference.
 
I had my Strada re MOSSed after break in and first service. It felt stronger and smoother, even the shifting action felt better with the fresh oil. This thing has a top end rush, I had a chance to rev it out through the gears last week. It has satisfactory grunt down low, but my last bike was a Suzuki DRZ 400 SM, so that is my point of reference.

Is there any torque values regarding oil filter cover or just a firm tweek. Looked all over but none that I can see. Real time oil change occurring. Assistance totally appreciated. BTW this bike really is a hoot. Getting Sam farckles soon!
 
Is there any torque values regarding oil filter cover or just a firm tweek. Looked all over but none that I can see. Real time oil change occurring. Assistance totally appreciated. BTW this bike really is a hoot. Getting Sam farckles soon!
Page F4.13 in the shop manual, 10Nm, though I used the 'firm tweek' method:

Screen Shot 2013-11-06 at 3.34.54 PM.png
 
Page F4.13 in the shop manual, 10Nm, though I used the 'firm tweek' method:

Wow thats service. Thanks .:thumbsup:
Lota people here going to end up with a friend in Oz if they're no careful..
 
Don't except much even after installing the booster plug (which is a must do) as far a power below say 3000rpm goes. Although with the booster plug installed the bike runs 100% better. Throttle response really does not kick in till above 3000rpm.

Same here with the Eruption fitted, the bike will pull cleanly from 2500 rpm in top verrrrryyyyy nicely
 
Third ride today and I realized that the throttle was annoying me. You have to give a quarter turn before anything starts to happen. I then remembered that all new bikes are like this and I hate it lol. Every bike I've had I adjusted the throttle cable so the response is instant as soon as you twist. After that the bike was much more enjoyable to ride. Part of the reason it felt weak to me is because I'm used to the instant response. Still a little weak down low but I like it much better. If you haven't done this, try it. So much nicer when starting off.

This what it was like before modding the bike, no response unless you rung the throttle, but now no longer a issue, pulls cleaner than ever before!
 
WRT to breaking the engine in , I take it the original oil is fully synthetic. I am now after 3 days of owner ship ( ..:banana:) about to do the obsessive early change.
I generally believed that fully synthetic would reduce the bedding in of piston,rings /cylinder . BMW strongly suggested that dino oil be used until at least 10,000 km for the 1200 boxer. I didnt used synthetic until 30,000 km for the R1200R (yep took that long for oil use to resolve to nil.)
I s the Rotax engine different .
I am just about to get some castrol Racing 1 Synthetic. Thoughts would be really appreciated...I am on the bottom of the learning curve..and loving it.

BTW soon to decide om which ... bash plate/bars/rad guard/centrestand/ maybe Safari tank/ Luggage rack, soft bags/ soft bag pannier frame / power accessory plug/ ?bark busters/ ... figure about $2100 to $2300 Analyzing thru every bit of anecdotal info I can get. Thanks for all those who post their experiences.

Breaking in an engine, do you have to do that nowadays? I thought if fully synth oil was present then you just rode it with a little care but once hot I ragged mine and she now goes like a gooden and no oil from the exhaust either.
I know if you take these modern engines with that type of oil in and labour the engine the bore doesn't like it and they glase the rings!
 
Is there any torque values regarding oil filter cover or just a firm tweek. Looked all over but none that I can see. Real time oil change occurring. Assistance totally appreciated. BTW this bike really is a hoot. Getting Sam farckles soon!

I thought someone had posted some torque values in another older thread. If in doubt, I would use blue thread lock or Yamabond with a firm twist.
 
I thought someone had posted some torque values in another older thread. If in doubt, I would use blue thread lock or Yamabond with a firm twist.


Torque values are in section X in the workshop manual which is posted as a sticky in the forum
 
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