• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Calling all 2013 TE449 owners - Would you buy it again?

hsq449 said:
Ok once again thanks a lot for your assistance, will give BMW a go
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The BMW shifterlever is about maybe 1"shorter in overall length than the Husky version. It will bring the pedal portion back about that distance closer to your foot. I run the Husky shifter pedal on my BMW G450X and I wear a size 12 boot. I wish I could get it adjusted just a bit higher personally but one notch higher and it won't even up shift. because it then hits the case first around the bearing flange bulge in the case behind the output sprocket. I run lowered Adjustable pegs and have them set all the way rearward as well. I swear I am going to eventually get another BMW pedal and weld the two together to get what I really want.

Maybe its just me but I like the pedal a further distance myself from the pegs and the BMW is definately closer and has a much simpler bend compared to the Husky shifter pedal though. Either one is a pain in the ass to replace or get to the bolt and the chain has to be slacked loose to get it off as well. I run a composite Hyde racing skid plate on my G450X BMW and I deliberately drilled a hole in it and opened it up with a carbide bit to access this shifter pedal screw from under and through the skid plate to get at it easier. Neither one for me has the proper bend or can be positioned where I want it with out bending it deliberately and risk breaking it in the process. Its not that far off to do that yet. or I just haven't yet done it. It is what it is and I have both levers. haven't tried changing the tips like you mention and know these are available but cost a shitload just to play around with.

By the way I use a KTM billet pedal tip on the brake pedal side and the KTMs aftermarket tips fit the whole spacing pattern perfectly on the BMW lever assembly. I also have a stock spare brake pedal and the aftermarket billet tip I bought for the brake pedal on the bike currently cost more than I paid for a near new complete pedal on ebay. but the pedal tip allows the pedal to adjust out farther as well. So thats why I did that change.

Somewhere I have a half dozen or pictures of the pedals held both side by side and have posted this set of pictures on the aftermarket section on the G450X riders forum some months back when I swapped the Husky engine into the BMW chassis but I can't find these particular pics at the moment. I'll take a pic tomorrow holding the BMW pedal right along the Husky pedal I have installed on my bike. There is a bit of a difference between the Husky and the BMW pedals so you can see what I'm saying. Maybe this will help you decide what to do. O.K. Timmy
 
I solved shifter woes by fitting pivot pegs, granted a shifter would be less expensive. But with the peg rotating down some it eliminates the need for a longer or higher postion of shifter.
 
I miss my TE bad since selling it in May. Looks like Im buying it back soon hahaa. So, yes, I would/will buy one again.
 
He is in love with a KTM500 on craigslist so I was like maybe I should buy the TE back. He's down, Im down. Looks like I'll he back on it in November.
 
Big Timmy said:
The BMW shifterlever is about maybe 1"shorter in overall length than the Husky version. It will bring the pedal portion back about that distance closer to your foot. I run the Husky shifter pedal on my BMW G450X and I wear a size 12 boot. I wish I could get it adjusted just a bit higher personally but one notch higher and it won't even up shift. because it then hits the case first around the bearing flange bulge in the case behind the output sprocket. I run lowered Adjustable pegs and have them set all the way rearward as well. I swear I am going to eventually get another BMW pedal and weld the two together to get what I really want.

Maybe its just me but I like the pedal a further distance myself from the pegs and the BMW is definately closer and has a much simpler bend compared to the Husky shifter pedal though. Either one is a pain in the ass to replace or get to the bolt and the chain has to be slacked loose to get it off as well. I run a composite Hyde racing skid plate on my G450X BMW and I deliberately drilled a hole in it and opened it up with a carbide bit to access this shifter pedal screw from under and through the skid plate to get at it easier. Neither one for me has the proper bend or can be positioned where I want it with out bending it deliberately and risk breaking it in the process. Its not that far off to do that yet. or I just haven't yet done it. It is what it is and I have both levers. haven't tried changing the tips like you mention and know these are available but cost a shitload just to play around with.

By the way I use a KTM billet pedal tip on the brake pedal side and the KTMs aftermarket tips fit the whole spacing pattern perfectly on the BMW lever assembly. I also have a stock spare brake pedal and the aftermarket billet tip I bought for the brake pedal on the bike currently cost more than I paid for a near new complete pedal on ebay. but the pedal tip allows the pedal to adjust out farther as well. So thats why I did that change.

Somewhere I have a half dozen or pictures of the pedals held both side by side and have posted this set of pictures on the aftermarket section on the G450X riders forum some months back when I swapped the Husky engine into the BMW chassis but I can't find these particular pics at the moment. I'll take a pic tomorrow holding the BMW pedal right along the Husky pedal I have installed on my bike. There is a bit of a difference between the Husky and the BMW pedals so you can see what I'm saying. Maybe this will help you decide what to do. O.K. Timmy
Click to expand...
Timmy thanks for the insight ,yeah what i'm after is for lever to seat just bellow the peg or even,as it stands stock it seats a bit higher which makes downshift difficult as you forced to lift your foot over too far ,thats just a personal preference.Now the spline positions are either way to high or way too lowthats why i'm thinking of using a BMW shifter providing the splines are the same.I've played with 2 different Hammerhead tips ,one was a -5 offset and the other was a +10 which i thought the difference between the two was the height but in fact one is positioned closer to the peg that is the-5.Now it seems you will probably benefit for something tha seats a bit further like a +15 or +20 tip .The Hammerhead tips will fit but it would take a bit of home engineering nothing hard but you get my drift.What i've found is the closer the shifter is to your boot the harder is to shift up or down that's because the angle now is smaller .
 
tunp said:
I solved shifter woes by fitting pivot pegs, granted a shifter would be less expensive. But with the peg rotating down some it eliminates the need for a longer or higher postion of shifter.
Click to expand...
i was really thinking of using pivot pegs,how do they feel compared to normal pegs ,are they easy to get used to?
 
Megabomb, fmf 4.1, tc air box lid, jd tuner, 7602 rad guards,ergo bark busters and seat concepts seat. Currently running warp 9 sm wheels with a 44 tooth rear. It runs well just waiting for the warranty to run out so I can get the full exhaust map installed
 
Olive xm said:
Megabomb, fmf 4.1, tc air box lid, jd tuner, 7602 rad guards,ergo bark busters and seat concepts seat. Currently running warp 9 sm wheels with a 44 tooth rear. It runs well just waiting for the warranty to run out so I can get the full exhaust map installed
Click to expand...
Nice ,how's the jd tuner noticeable power increace?
 
Big differance, only get the very rare flame out now, and a heap more power. The exhaust was a big differance aswel down low mainly. The tuner made more differance than exhaust thou I have only run the exhaust with the tuner. Air box made a differance aswel it's louder but it sounds great.
 
hsq449 said:
Timmy thanks for the insight ,yeah what i'm after is for lever to seat just bellow the peg or even,as it stands stock it seats a bit higher which makes downshift difficult as you forced to lift your foot over too far ,thats just a personal preference.Now the spline positions are either way to high or way too lowthats why i'm thinking of using a BMW shifter providing the splines are the same.I've played with 2 different Hammerhead tips ,one was a -5 offset and the other was a +10 which i thought the difference between the two was the height but in fact one is positioned closer to the peg that is the-5.Now it seems you will probably benefit for something tha seats a bit further like a +15 or +20 tip .The Hammerhead tips will fit but it would take a bit of home engineering nothing hard but you get my drift.What i've found is the closer the shifter is to your boot the harder is to shift up or down that's because the angle now is smaller .
Click to expand...
I rode a 511 with pivot pegs and the flexx bars. Must have mods now. It's unbelievable how much of a difference they make. I thought the pivot pegs would be ackward but I only noticed how grea they are. Easier with the controls and even with crazy moments where my feet would have left the pegs, you stay on them. The flexx bars have an awesome feel. Especially over whoops where they really absorb impact.
 
Olive xm said:
Big differance, only get the very rare flame out now, and a heap more power. The exhaust was a big differance aswel down low mainly. The tuner made more differance than exhaust thou I have only run the exhaust with the tuner. Air box made a differance aswel it's louder but it sounds great.
Click to expand...
it sounds good,i'll give the tuner a go ,also by the way do you know anything about this BMW map or map 3 and what it does?thanks
 
I would try the exhaust map first. Im not sure where you are located the tuner may be easier depending where you live and if you have warranty.
 
If you have a MY13 449, go with the new map. If you buy a JD tuner, you will be wasting your money. However, if you insist on an add-on device, the powercommander 5 is the best option.
 
Tinken said:
If you have a MY13 449, go with the new map. If you buy a JD tuner, you will be wasting your money. However, if you insist on an add-on device, the powercommander 5 is the best option.
Click to expand...
Yeah mine is a MY13 but when i asked my dealer he didn't know anything about this other map(bmw,exhaust,map3 not sure what it's called) and still waiting to get back at me after he said he would look into it,located in Melbourne by the way that's why i was thinking of the JD tuner
 
Olive xm said:
I would try the exhaust map first. Im not sure where you are located the tuner may be easier depending where you live and if you have warranty.
Click to expand...
Hey mate located in Melbourne where can you get these map updates,my dealer doesn't seem to know anything about ém as yet and yes the bike is still under warranty MY13,thanks
 
If you get the map changed it will void warranty so will the tuner, but I take that off when I take it in for a service.
Ring around the dealers and see who can change maps, I've never asked my dealer in Thomastown as the warranty dose not run out till January.
RnD Husky in Sydney do it but they want the bike, maybe they can sweet talked....? Let us know if you find somebody as I will be looking in a couple of months.

Where is your dealer?
 
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