• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Case Paint - POR15 or Spray Max 2K?

390wr Jon

Husqvarna
AA Class
I’ve tried PJ1 and VHT paint unsuccessfully on my 1980 390WR since both coatings are compromised by fuel.

Has anyone tried POR15 chassis black or Spray Max 2K satin hot rod black for a case paint? Both paints claim to be chemically resistant. If you used them successfully, is the coating the correct sheen and did you have to use a primer?

Any help on case paint information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Grouty,

I went to Trimite’s website and they have a ton of different products.

Could you kindly provide:

1. The Trimite product description and Trimite # that you are referring to?
2. Do you also use a Trimite primer? If so, can you provide that description and part # since they have different primers as well?

Thanks,

Jon
 
I've used VHT High Temp engine enamel for the past 10 years and have been happy with its fuel resistance. Do you cure it at 250 degrees for an hour?

Yes. Cured it for an hour at 250 F and it was probably a month before I got everything back together and fuel from the carburetor came in contact. The VHT blistered like I put paint stripper on it. I liked the VHT finish, but I’m reluctant to use it again based upon my past experience and I don’t want the 250 F temperature to compromise the new engine seals.
 
I've had a few cans of paint that never dried or didn't have any pressure or were a different color than labeled. You hate to waste paint but try a small spray out, after you shaker good like brown sugar on the Ribs Know what I mean!!
 

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I don’t want the 250 F temperature to compromise the new engine seals.

Okay, I think understand. Sounds like you repainted the engine cases with the motor assembled. In that case I agree with your comment. I use the gas grill to cure my bare cases and sometimes the temp creeps above 300. Wouldn't want that to happen to an assembled engine.
 
Okay, I think understand. Sounds like you repainted the engine cases with the motor assembled. In that case I agree with your comment. I use the gas grill to cure my bare cases and sometimes the temp creeps above 300. Wouldn't want that to happen to an assembled engine.

I currently have the cases split but I don’t want to pull new seals in order to rebake the the cases after repainting. I’m hoping to find an alternate coating that I don’t have to bake, but is also fuel proof.
 
So I ended up using the Spraymax 2K satin black with a Spraymax epoxy primer undercoat.

Went on very easily and has a beautiful finish, albeit it is not cheap paint. I spoke to the Spraymax Tech support prior to painting to ensure proper adhesion, whereby they said no acid etching or self-etching primer was required. However, I got a few paint chips here and there down to the bare cases. The good news is that the finish is impervious to gas (at least so far).
 
Here's a couple of pictures. A little dusty looking due to all the pollen we've had recently. I didn't paint the cylinder or head since the finish on them was in good shape.
Left Side Case.jpgLeft Side Case.jpg
 

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