• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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cast iron sleeves and 2t pre mix oils

Bigbill

Bigbill

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Do you use only castor oil in your cast iron sleeves engines?

Do you mix your pre mix with different blends of castor oil?

I just purchased some maxima 927 2t oil to use in my cast iron sleeves bikes. I'm thinking of going with the original 20:1 ratio and jet the bike to it. I have some other good brand of castor oil but it says the mix seperates when sitting. So we need to shake the gas can and bike to keep it mixed up properly.

I feel there are two different oils one for cast iron sleeved cylinders and another for the nikasil cylinders.

Any thoughts?

I am trying to figure out why these older bikes lasted for so long.
 
This raised a question in my mind. With the modern bikes and oils, they call for 40:1 or even 50:1? Can I run this mix in vintage? I use Motul synthetic in my modern bike. What mix should I run in the vintage bikes?
 
disonny said:
This raised a question in my mind. With the modern bikes and oils, they call for 40:1 or even 50:1? Can I run this mix in vintage? I use Motul synthetic in my modern bike. What mix should I run in the vintage bikes?
Click to expand...



the old factory manual says "oil of known quality"
kinda leaves things open to anything but junk, so define junk
i have used different oils over the years, loved the Maxima 927, smells nice, i ran mine at 40:1
currently running Golden Spectro at 50:1
the sleeve material is not the issue, the piston and bearings are the issue, piston skirt is soft aluminum, bearings spin fast and hard
both need good protection, hence "oil of known quality"
 
I talked with Maxima engineers for feedback, I have mentioned this before. That nature made something humans has not made yet. The molecule in the castor oil is attracted the hottest spot
in your engine. It has the highest flash point so it does not break down. Other engine engine builders like the maxima M of K blends as well , they for just for one reason - that they seem to burn cleaner and have fewer
deposits. Kartwheel I think says he has really clean engines using the 927. I have been using the K blend.

An old article written by two stroke guru I have somewhere says. The big open two strokes lower end bearings and crank bearings need more oil than the 40 to 50 to 1s ratios give. Recommended the 32 to 1 ratios.

But the higher 40 or 50 to 1 do run real crisp ?

So I just mix a little more oil in the middle at 35 to 1. I think we are all fine running the oils above.
 
Maxima 927 has castor oil in it to some degree.

The newer bikes have a limited lifetime before a refresh. Some of these 40 year old husky were never touched. It makes me wonder what the difference is. Years ago there wasn't a two stroke oil we mixed 30wt non detergent motor oil to make pre mix. I had a 2t go cart in the 50's.

I used maxima super M mixed 40:1 in the past. But I'm leaning towards a castor oil now.
I think the maxima 927 is it.
My only dumb question is now do you guys add anymore castor oil to it?

20:1 means more oil per gallon, it's leaner gas wise, the 32:1 is richer gas wise, less oil.

The original jetting specs calls for 20:1 mix.
 
Back in the day I used Castrol oil. 1qt to 5 gallons of gas. Obviously more oil per gallon. New oils lube better, so less oil per gallon. I think I'll go with 35 or 40:1.
 
Maxima 927 is a ester synthetic fortified with about 30% castor, you dont need to add more. The original jetting was for 20:1 but todays fuel is much different and most original jetting specs are just a starting point. 32:1 will only make a miniscule difference in jetting.

I dont know where you get the idea that older bikes last longer than new bikes, new bikes last far longer. The difference is that in the case of Husky, the metallurgy of their sleeves was very high, but mostly its because these 40 year old bikes still on original pistons were barely ridden.
 
im down with the castor as well, but i run klotz super techniplate. 40:1 in liquid, 32:1 in air, especially big bore. always pretty clean when inspecting internals and good life. been using for over 15 years. the castor does smell nice. at least with the klotz it does seem to stay mixed well. and i ride all winter, always looked ok in clear float bowls or cans. no spooge or fouling i certainly wouldnt mix more castor with it, but klotz makes a much more castor concentrated oil called benol. its pretty dirty but is a top choice for alcohol and microsprint or drag racers.
everyone knows the secret to 2 stroke longevity is proper jetting, clean air, warm em up a bit before full load and run decent oil. run it till compression drops, which can take quite awhile
 
3492_Klotz_KL-100_-_Klotz_Super_Techniplate_2_takt_1.jpg

617844f9568110fe0bad6413d98c1b1e_1024x1024.jpeg

techniplate is the standard synthetic lube from klotz, i guess super techniplate is just that cut with 20% benol. the benol is pretty hardcore, i would not recommend it for trails. hard core racing it is supposed to be very very durable. most of klotz oils are the only oils that openly state compatibility with methanol and alcohol. perhaps this is why racers like it from airplanes and boats to micro sprints.
 
2premo said:
the old factory manual says "oil of known quality"
kinda leaves things open to anything but junk, so define junk
i have used different oils over the years, loved the Maxima 927, smells nice, i ran mine at 40:1
currently running Golden Spectro at 50:1
the sleeve material is not the issue, the piston and bearings are the issue, piston skirt is soft aluminum, bearings spin fast and hard
both need good protection, hence "oil of known quality"
Click to expand...
golden spectro is good as well, thats all i ran until i started using castor. spectro is nice and dark as well, making it easy to tell if mixed. the klotz is red so isnt too terrible, but wouldnt mind seeing a stronger color
 
the factory bikes in the 80s were on synthetic at 40:1 .

i run maxima super m ? synthetic . at 40;1 in everything i own from the chainsaw to the gasgas . in reality and quality at a decent ratio is not going to make a noticible difference that us mere mortals will ever notice so who cares ?
 
well....I run 75 to 100 to 1 in the wr 400 LC (the oil is full synthetic motorex) and have had 3 years out of the bike with no drama on the piston it came with...(Christ knows how long it was in there for before I got it) I don't think an aircooler would like this ratio, they seem to need more oil...
 
I am asking because I really don't know, but why would an air cooled motor need more oil than a water cooled motor???
 
Back in the day I raced a very trick 1979 Maico 400 (avatar pic). Iron liner, air cooled. When Belray MC1 first came out it was described on the bottle as 85:1 ratio. So thats what I ran. Ran 32:1 penzoil the prior year on my husky 250 and 390 and always had oil related failures and lots of general wear. It did make me a good mechanic. With the 85:1 belray the Maico 400 ran superb and had almost no wear and no oil related failures. I put around 50 MX races on the original top end. I have used MC1 ever since - big fan. Its the oil that counts. I have mellowed the MC1 to a sedate 60:1 these days. It goes in everything, bikes, chainsaw, weed wacker, outboard etc. Cam.
 
aircooled bikes are more subject to differing heating regimes than LC's (until they boil!) so a little more oil will help when your stuck on a hill on a hot day going nowhere and the scoot is hot. methinks anyway... bel ray? its good stuff.
 
nothing wrong with Bel Ray, in my 86 510 manual it's speced as the oil to use, on the Husky tanks (factory) what was written
 
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