• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Chain snapped!

blueknob said:
My bike has the same damage, it was repaired with jb weld, has held up good so far.
Click to expand...

blueknob,
I have to ask what kind of chain is that? It has straight inner links with a profiled hole and the outer links are regular shaped. Kind of different? Never seen one like that.

I'm Cool with the JB weld if thats what you all like. Its a bandaid fix no matter how you look at the product. I carry some in my tool bag myself for emergency repairs, some stick epoxy also. It's an old habit I can't seem to break. Go for it with the JB and then ride it if you like, just clean it up good first and rough up any smooth surfaces so it has a bit of "tooth" and it will stick like S$%t on a baby blanket. I know because I have had to get it off hundreds of times to actually weld cases up myself.. If you ever dissasemble it then weld it. Thats just me but I've had a Tig welder in my shop since 1978 to do that sort of thing. Others at work everyplace I have been employed since the 70's as well. So its just what I would do and thats do a proper undetectable repair, it can be done.
 
JB Weld is the solution to this problem. I've repaired all kinds of things with it, and it has never come off. The stuff is like welding.
 
Big Timmy said:
blueknob,
I have to ask what kind of chain is that? It has straight inner links with a profiled hole and the outer links are regular shaped. Kind of different? Never seen one like that.

I'm Cool with the JB weld if thats what you all like. Its a bandaid fix no matter how you look at the product. I carry some in my tool bag myself for emergency repairs, some stick epoxy also. It's an old habit I can't seem to break. Go for it with the JB and then ride it if you like, just clean it up good first and rough up any smooth surfaces so it has a bit of "tooth" and it will stick like S$%t on a baby blanket. I know because I have had to get it off hundreds of times to actually weld cases up myself.. If you ever dissasemble it then weld it. Thats just me but I've had a Tig welder in my shop since 1978 to do that sort of thing. Others at work everyplace I have been employed since the 70's as well. So its just what I would do and thats do a proper undetectable repair, it can be done.
Click to expand...
not sure what kind of chain it is, was on the bike when i got it, the jb weld was there from the previous owner too, i was worried about it at first, but i've put over 3000 miles on it with no probs, i think it's kind of a crappy design, with the clutch actuator right in line with the chain
 
blueknob said:
not sure what kind of chain it is, was on the bike when i got it, the jb weld was there from the previous owner too, i was worried about it at first, but i've put over 3000 miles on it with no probs, i think it's kind of a crappy design, with the clutch actuator right in line with the chain
Click to expand...

Many dirt bikes have the clutch actuator arm pivot cast into the cases right in front of the sprocket. Even many of the dirtbikes with Hydraulic actuators nowadays. I couldn't count how many of them I have welded back together over the last 35 years. All brands nearly at one time or another. I couldn't count how many brought them in with JB weld on them either. I've probably sent more than half of those right back out the door. I've sent the other half to the carwash before I put their filthy greasy cases into my Zero blast&peen beadblast cabinet as well. I'll bet some still have those bikes sitting around the yard and they are still using JB Weld. They probably aren't running and nobody would buy them after looking closely at them, as it kind of cuts down on the resale value if you know what I'm saying but I'm over it.

I wasn't trying to sell anything, just making a recomendation. For me its about repair it rather than replace it, not about patching it up. For example, my work uniform laundry service uses iron on patchs to fix the holes in my work shirts and jeans too but I don't own them. So now I repair and sew them myself on my upholstery sewing machine because I launder them at my house too. Have you ever seen how much nasty crap comes out of these cloths when dunked in a tub of water? When an article of these uniforms gets burned or mangled beyond repair, I fill out the form and get it replaced. They don't care about me wearing their nasty "washed" still dirty clothes. I do though, just a thought!
 
Big Timmy said:
Many dirt bikes have the clutch actuator arm pivot cast into the cases right in front of the sprocket. Even many of the dirtbikes with Hydraulic actuators nowadays. I couldn't count how many of them I have welded back together over the last 35 years. All brands nearly at one time or another. I couldn't count how many brought them in with JB weld on them either. I've probably sent more than half of those right back out the door. I've sent the other half to the carwash before I put their filthy greasy cases into my Zero blast&peen beadblast cabinet as well. I'll bet some still have those bikes sitting around the yard and they are still using JB Weld. They probably aren't running and nobody would buy them after looking closely at them, as it kind of cuts down on the resale value if you know what I'm saying but I'm over it.

I wasn't trying to sell anything, just making a recomendation. For me its about repair it rather than replace it, not about patching it up. For example, my work uniform laundry service uses iron on patchs to fix the holes in my work shirts and jeans too but I don't own them. So now I repair and sew them myself on my upholstery sewing machine because I launder them at my house too. Have you ever seen how much nasty crap comes out of these cloths when dunked in a tub of water? When an article of these uniforms gets burned or mangled beyond repair, I fill out the form and get it replaced. They don't care about me wearing their nasty "washed" still dirty clothes. I do though, just a thought!
Click to expand...


I agree welding it is the right thing to do. But that also requires complete disassembly of the motor to do it right which is a pretty big job on that bike. So the JB weld solution is a good one for someone who cant afford that or does not want the down time. It can always be welded later if he wants.
 
+JB Weld. fixed 1 that way worked good. fixed another by welding, that worked good too. If you keep it long enough to rebuild it then have it welded. You could be riding this weekend, or sometime a month from now.
 
firecrackerkid said:
+JB Weld. fixed 1 that way worked good. fixed another by welding, that worked good too. If you keep it long enough to rebuild it then have it welded. You could be riding this weekend, or sometime a month from now.
Click to expand...

I agree with that, I guess thats how I got into the welding business. Having to wait for someone else to get to my broken stuff, which was about once. Nobody wants to split some cases thats for sure. Riding is the plan above all else.

Being in the welding trade I just don't get the jist of the use of the word "Fixed" when dealing with a tube of epoxy. I don't mean to be an a-hole about it but that word should be "patched" or "temporarily repaired" thats all.

I have done it myself and used epoxy on things I must admit but it didn't stay that way for long, I never tried to see how long such a thing would last either. Who knows? I've used Devcon a few times to repair my Honda CR500 magnesium water pump cavity after installing it in my TRX 250R Fourtrax. The stock 250R radiator didn't have a sacrificial zinc anode in it to keep the magnesium case from corroding like crazy. Thats what Devcon is for though, building up edges of molds and pump applications. It worked for years. Its easy to work with too. I eventually bought the 2 piece side cover that had the clutch cover itself as a separate piece. It was alot less of a problem.
 
I here you firecrackerkid, the 449/Bmw/Kymco of course has the actuator on the outside of the clutch cover and most all older bikes that had this arrangement regardless of which shaft the clutch was mounted on. This was somewhat of a compact and less complicated set-up but many had to have a diaphram type spring to overcenter itself and release the clutch.

I believe this set up is the reason that Rekluse doesn't make an auto clutch for the Kymco engine, (EFM does) but it has no lever over ride feature as there is no way to run a actuator pushrod through the crankshaft. That sucks, just full auto centrifical operation. I've seen many EFM units for sale on Ebay, there's one right now for 500.00 and only has 20 hrs on it. Just not the same not having the clutch lever to still use.
 
firecrackerkid said:
Patched is appropriate. Lots of bikes have the clutch pivot right there. You would think there must be a better way.
Click to expand...


The reason is simple. The clutch actuator goes through the clutch basket and shaft which drives the transmission and the then the output shaft the countershaft is located on. They simply end up that close as thats where the shafts are.
 
My guess is the masterlink failed - lost clip and poor press fit cover plate. The safest will always be a riveted chain despite most chains these days having a good press fit coverplate before the clip. A clip can become dislodged through rolling the bike backwards and it catching on the chain guide, amongst other things. Also some 610's came with poor OEM chains that were susceptible to failure - think they were RS brand?
 
I was having a bit of a hoon on a beach in NZ and my back wheel dug, so I gunned it, sand went everywhere, then some loose rocks, then a big clunk - my chain came apart at the master link.

img2013-01-27_12.jpg


Luckily, the damage was minimal - it snapped off the casing mount that held on the plastic chain guard, pretty much in an identical place as shown in Spice Weasel's pics. Seems like a weak point in the design.

chain-guard.jpg


I keep thinking I should weld the mount back onto the casing. As folks point out, to do that properly involves a fair amount of disassembly. Meanwhile, I took the chain to a nearby garage to get a new master link, and the mechanic attached the chain guard using a Kiwi poor-mans weld: a carefully placed zip tie. Worked well for the last few thousand k's:


chain-guard2.jpg


I still have the original broken casing mount.
Does JB-Weld have the strength to hold on a casing mount point? Maybe I should reattach it.
 
JonDirt said:
Does JB-Weld have the strength to hold on a casing mount point? Maybe I should reattach it.
Click to expand...

Yes. Use the putty kind. clean it really well and sand the part and the surface around where you are reaching it. Should hold good if done right but obviously will not be as strong as before.
 
That is really tough luck when the chain attacks the case.:thumbsdown:
Due to the high speed capability of the 610/630, 650s etc, the chance of major damage is probably higher.

Here is a case guard I made for my 610 that ties into the chain roller for extra support:
610casesaver002_zps64073058.jpg


And one for my WR250 that fits around the kick start shaft:
caseguards009_zpse9cd8ad6.jpg
 
Xcuvator's case guard is for sure useful when the snapped chain "lashes" the bike, but I don't know if it could prevent the chain from wrapping around the sprocket.
Here is my theory:
Please let me know what you think about it.
 
Hi JonDirt - I am surprised you can ride on the beach in NZ!? There is no ways you would get away with it here in SA - real good chance you lose the bike as well as a day in court :cool:. Would love to see the state of your linkage and swingarm bearings after that beach escapade. That mount is only designed to hold a plastic cover so no design issue imo. Many actually take that guard off but i have fitted a chain guard behind it (with a bit of modification).
 
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