• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Chain Wear

Tighttwisties

Husqvarna
B Class
I just noticed my master link on the drive chain is wearing on the (clip) side.

The chain pins that the clip clip onto are wearing down to the point the clip will soon come off. After a further close look, the front and rear sprockets are developing slight hooks to the teeth.

The bike (2010 TE310) only has 850 miles.

I keep the chain at the proper tension and the adjusters are equal.

My guess is that the adjusters are not accurate and my sprokets are not alligned correctly causing the wear.

Anyone else have a similar experience?
 
You are right on the adjuster blocks. Do a search on them and learn some new ways to adjust. Other than that, what you describe is what mine look like. I've got just over 1200 mi and mine are junk. The pins are all rounded, rear sprocket is noticeable hooked and the front looks like a bunch of half moons. 2 reasons for this, riding hard in dusty or muddy conditions and lack of proper cleaning.
 
Nothing to worry about, the link is wider then the chain, just put on a new one. Sprockets hooking, time to change everything to new. If you think your chain is adjusted right lay across the seat and pull on the swingarm to compress the bike, most of the time the chain is too tight, just a quick way to tell if your alone.
 
The chain guide is gonna put wear on the chain pins ... The protecting material inside that guide can be a real problem if it is wearing out ...

850 miles is not alot of miles ... 1200 either ... I probably have 2200 on my sprockets and it is still doing OK ... I like to run my chain as loose as possible and lube it often ...

If you are concerned the adjuster blocks are wrong, just measure from the swingarm back to the rear axle for your next ADJ ....
 
I have 6000 miles on the original chain and sprockets on my TE 450. I must be doing something right.:excuseme:
 
Make sure the rear chain guide is not bent in and putting more wear the usual on the link.

We run with the master link reversed with the plate and clip on the inside for this very reason and never see the problem again..

Chow, Carl
 
CARL REHATCHEK;102791 said:
Make sure the rear chain guide is not bent in and putting more wear the usual on the link.

We run with the master link reversed with the plate and clip on the inside for this very reason and never see the problem again..

Chow, Carl

+1
My 09 came out of the crate with the guide mounted slightly crooked, causing the chain to wear into the sides of the sprocket teeth. A couple whacks with a big dead blow hammer cured it.

The master link clips will last a surprisingly long time. Granted they're cheap to buy, so I keep some handy, incl. one in my fanny pack. In a pinch you can just flip the clip over and let it start wearing on the other side.

The stock chain and rear sprocket should last at least 3000-5000 miles if taken care of properly.
 
you might consider a BRP rear chain guide as they are wider than the stock guide and the chain will not rub on it as much.dan
 
Carl's idea is good, flip the link so the clip is facing towards the spokes.
I had about 2500 Kms on my 450 and the stock sprocket was looking a tad tired so I replaced the lot. I went for a alloy rear sprocket with a steel outer that will give longer wear.
A lot of people will tell you to change the front and rear sprockets and chain in one fell swoop. I am convinced that a good rear sprocket and quality O or X ring will outlast at least 2 front sprockets. I do advise you to keep a regular look out on the front sprocket. It is doing a lot more work than the rear and it is easily overlooked.
 
I have to replace everything at about 1000-1300 miles on all my bikes. By then the the teeth are hooking and the chain is stretched. I ride in a lot of mud and grit.
 
Yeah, the environment the bike typically rides in is probably key to wear. In Australia it is more dry than wet so this probably helps with chain and sprocket longevity. I guess in BC and Washingston State etc chains and brakes would wear out more quickly.
 
Thanks for the tips.

The guide seems straight. The front sprocket is slightly hooked but still usable. I plan to buy a (probably BRP) Chain Guide and new sprockets & chain but in the meantime, if I could just replace the master link I could get another 400 miles out of the combo.

Anyone know the make and model of the stock chain from a 2010 310 TE?

I hear all master links are not created equal and it's best to match the original.

Thanks again.
 
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