• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Clutch cable rubbing

Mine is definitely rubbing. Only 1k miles so glad I caught it. Will be heading to hardware store to pick up loom and cable clamp. Thanks everyone for the heads up and suggestions to resolve the issue.

image.jpg
 
With the electrical loom over the top, is there still enough flexibility and room there to squeeze the air filter cover in and out ?
 
Yes I had mine out on the weekend for a cleaning.

Has anyone put a new air filter in yet? Or just taking it out for a cleaning with air too?
 
HuskyDude said:
Has anyone put a new air filter in yet?
Click to expand...

I've changed mine at 15000km. It was looking ok at the 10k mark but it had a hard workout after that. I wasn't happy with the dust migrating around the edges so now, after recommendations, I've put a heap of waterproof tacky grease around the mating surfaces. I spend the odd minute or two every now & then working out how to fit a foam filter into that airbox.
 
I did notice a light dust on the wrong side of the air filter too.:banghead: Not good...

I'll try some grease around the mating surfaces and around the A/F door seal.

I love the location of the A/F up out of the way...but what a poor design.
 
Abby said:
so do I need to do anything with mine?

View attachment 28164

The end of the clamp thing is blocked from moving and folding around the cable. should I just go get one of the clamps you guys are talking about, or would taking this one off and bending it work OK?
Click to expand...

I would get a new clamp, Abby. Mine has a nice big loop in it and is ok for now, but I can see where the cable is starting to wear away the coating of the clamp. Once that is gone the cable will start copping it. I was in the dealership last night picking up some bits and he had a Terra on the floor he was still assembling. I had a look at it and the clamp/guide was the same as yours, straight and it had started to scrape the cable sheath. So I don't know if it came from the factory like this and mine got bent on assembly and this one was missed. I mentioned it to the owner and he's aware of the issue now
 
hasenpfeffer said:
Based on my experience, you will not have any problems with steering. When you turn right, the cable will want to move downward. When you turn left, the cable will want to move upward. I chose to install a clamp that holds the cable firmly at the top of the radiator to prevent the cable from moving at that point. This also prevents the cable from moving significantly at the bottom of the radiator, another wear point. The cable still has to move somewhere when you turn right and left, however. By clamping it at the radiator, the cable will now bend and move towards the headlight above the radiator. There seems to be plenty of room on my stock bike for this and it does not impede steering. It is your choice whether you put on a tight clamp or loose one, but either would be better than the stock guide, IMO.
Click to expand...

I put on the rubber lined p-clamp ($1.15 for a pair at Lowe's, in the specialty section, aisle 1). I turned the handlebar all the way to the left and tightened the clamp. The clutch cable is snugged up and doesn't slide behind the radiator, which is good. But, when turning hard to the right the does bend forward, up toward the back of the headlight. I'm not thrilled with this solution because a hard right turn causes quite a bend, but I'm going with it for now. I'm wondering if the electrical loom fix might be better. For sure, either is better than the stock situation.
 
AvidR said:
I put on the rubber lined p-clamp ($1.15 for a pair at Lowe's, in the specialty section, aisle 1). I turned the handlebar all the way to the left and tightened the clamp. The clutch cable is snugged up and doesn't slide behind the radiator, which is good. But, when turning hard to the right the does bend forward, up toward the back of the headlight. I'm not thrilled with this solution because a hard right turn causes quite a bend, but I'm going with it for now. I'm wondering if the electrical loom fix might be better. For sure, either is better than the stock situation.
Click to expand...


While I like the idea of the electrical loom fix, i think that the loom will still rub against the radiator and will need to be replaced every so often. if the loom is fixed so it doesn't move, then the cable will rub inside it, and while it may not wear out as quickly as it does against the stock clamp, i still imagine it will be a wear item that needs to have an eye kept on it.

just my thoughts.

--Chris
 
chris1261 said:
While I like the idea of the electrical loom fix, i think that the loom will still rub against the radiator and will need to be replaced every so often. if the loom is fixed so it doesn't move, then the cable will rub inside it, and while it may not wear out as quickly as it does against the stock clamp, i still imagine it will be a wear item that needs to have an eye kept on it.

just my thoughts.

--Chris
Click to expand...
That what I was thinking and why I'm sticking with the fixed point method for the time being. I took a long rocky road today making me stay slow and do a lot of turning. I didn't have any problems and haven't noticed any new wear yet.
 
I think if you made the loom to radiator connection rigid and let the cable slide freely within the loom....you would be okay :thumbsup:
 
kjackbrown said:
I think if you made the loom to radiator connection rigid and let the cable slide freely within the loom....you would be okay :thumbsup:
Click to expand...


Probably. It would be nice if anyone that has done the loom method to post in another 1000 miles and let us know how it looks.
 
I have 4200 miles on my bike as well as 2'' Rox risers, but I tilted the risers forward heavily to make sure there was ample slack in all the cables so the rise on the bars is significantly less that 2''.

Inspected the clutch cable after I saw this thread and up top my cable is slightly worn, no more than than the pictures in this thread. BUT down low where the cable runs on the underside of the radiator is a different story. Down there the insulation has worn completely through and the metal sheath is fully exposed.

I heavily encourage you all to inspect the full length of the clutch cable. I will be pulling mine off the bike this week and posting pictures of it as soon as I can.

I have a 650GS clutch cable on order and will be figuring out a different way to route the cable myself and perhaps even armoring it with heavy duty shrink tubing in wear spots. In my opinion it is definitely a warranty issue, but i decided not to go that route because its only $40, I don't have truck or trailer to haul it with(I refuse to ride it the 45 mins of highway to the dealer like this, I'm paranoid) and I do have aftermarket risers installed after all :banghead:

On the upside I have been ripping my little KLR250 around all weekend, hahaha that thing is so much fun :banana: It is going to be tough on me to sell that thing this month
 
While installing my Altrider crash bars today, I decided to have a look at the clutch cable and sure enough, the plastic cover was worn thru to the sheath. It was being pinched between the frame and the radiator. I disengaged the cable from the clutch and pulled it up to the top of the bike, repaired the rubbed spot and rerouted the cable to run behind the frame. Their was plenty of room even for my buddy Next, and he has 2" rox-risers.
 
Th
Lekolite said:
While installing my Altrider crash bars today, I decided to have a look at the clutch cable and sure enough, the plastic cover was worn thru to the sheath. It was being pinched between the frame and the radiator. I disengaged the cable from the clutch and pulled it up to the top of the bike, repaired the rubbed spot and rerouted the cable to run behind the frame. Their was plenty of room even for my buddy Next, and he has 2" rox-risers.
Click to expand...
Thanks...good to know I thought 2 inch rise was tight. But running cable inside of frame makes that a better solution.
 
Thanks for the heads up about this issue. I pick my bike up in 9 days and this will be the first thing I address.
 
Lekolite said:
While installing my Altrider crash bars today, I decided to have a look at the clutch cable and sure enough, the plastic cover was worn thru to the sheath. It was being pinched between the frame and the radiator. I disengaged the cable from the clutch and pulled it up to the top of the bike, repaired the rubbed spot and rerouted the cable to run behind the frame. Their was plenty of room even for my buddy Next, and he has 2" rox-risers.
Click to expand...


When I got home from work today I rerouted my clutch cable behind the frame. Much more relaxed, but there are a couple of spots where it will rub against the radiator hose when the bars are on full right lock. Does anyone foresee that being a problem when the hose gets hot ?
 
I would imagine you're not doing clockwise donuts all day long and the cable would be touching only for moments at a time, so probably okay as far as heat goes. Check it in a 1000 miles and let us know!
 
Lekolite said:
While installing my Altrider crash bars today, I decided to have a look at the clutch cable and sure enough, the plastic cover was worn thru to the sheath. It was being pinched between the frame and the radiator. I disengaged the cable from the clutch and pulled it up to the top of the bike, repaired the rubbed spot and rerouted the cable to run behind the frame. Their was plenty of room even for my buddy Next, and he has 2" rox-risers.
Click to expand...


Yea was exactly what happened to mine. I don't really follow where you routed it tho. Behind the frame? Doesn't that route it really close to the exhaust pipe? Is that ok to do?

I fiddly around for a while and only came up with comig striagth off the clutch and routing it to go past the radiator fan and I really don't like it as it requires the cable to be ziptied to that large hose forward of the clutch, and the cable is really exposed. I'm going to have to play around with it more
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top