Laverdaton
Husqvarna
AA Class
I recently bought a 1976 CR360 compete engine in unknown condition.
I took the head off to view the state of the piston and bore and was surprised to see a freshly bored cylinder with honing marks and a brand new piston. I don't think the engine had ever been started.
The reason why it hadn't been started was that the flywheel nut and c/shaft thread were missing. The end of the crankshaft had been sheared off. The engine wasn't seized and I can only guess someone had tried to undo the nut the wrong way, which was left-hand thread! and it sheared off.
I pulled the flywheel off and took the whole engine to a machine shop. I removed the clutch cover and they were able to take a reference point from the machined face of the LHS crankcase half and mount it on the table of a milling machine. Cylinder head and barrel were still in place.
They then drilled and tapped the crankshaft and made (from 12.9 class bolt) a M12x1.0 left hand thread stud which was thread-locked into the crankshaft. Next, a nut was machined from the same 12.9 class material.
Job done.........
I thought I'd share this tip to show that it isn't necessary to strip the engine to have this type of repair made.
I hope it helps someone somewhere..........
Andy
I took the head off to view the state of the piston and bore and was surprised to see a freshly bored cylinder with honing marks and a brand new piston. I don't think the engine had ever been started.
The reason why it hadn't been started was that the flywheel nut and c/shaft thread were missing. The end of the crankshaft had been sheared off. The engine wasn't seized and I can only guess someone had tried to undo the nut the wrong way, which was left-hand thread! and it sheared off.
I pulled the flywheel off and took the whole engine to a machine shop. I removed the clutch cover and they were able to take a reference point from the machined face of the LHS crankcase half and mount it on the table of a milling machine. Cylinder head and barrel were still in place.
They then drilled and tapped the crankshaft and made (from 12.9 class bolt) a M12x1.0 left hand thread stud which was thread-locked into the crankshaft. Next, a nut was machined from the same 12.9 class material.
Job done.........
I thought I'd share this tip to show that it isn't necessary to strip the engine to have this type of repair made.
I hope it helps someone somewhere..........
Andy