• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

CRITICAL info for 2010 250 owners!

krieg

Husqvarna
Pro Class
My kickstart lever "locked" itself all the way back against the foot peg tonight while I was trying to start my 2010 TC 250.

Here's what I found:

backedoutbolt.jpg


gouge.jpg


The bolt was on the verge of falling out. I'm not sure how it survived my last ride a few weeks ago.

I tightened all the case bolts and found SEVERAL loose.

CHECK them bolts guys! :eek:
 
I agree.. Two to 3 times went over and over and now they are finding a happy home.. Also keep a eye out on the screw that holds the top on... Seen on of them loosen up and leave its rider kickless..lol

Chow, Carl
 
In the old dazs we use to remove the paint from under the motor mount bolts. A, it makes a better ground . And Loctite everything! I always go over a new bike with and fine tooth comb and check and grease everything.
Gramps
 
While you are at it check your water pump impeller nut as well. If you don't feel safe doing it have your dealer. I see today where I lost a rear fender bolt on the silencer side where it goes into the air box.
 
raisrx251;73605 said:
While you are at it check your water pump impeller nut as well. If you don't feel safe doing it have your dealer. I see today where I lost a rear fender bolt on the silencer side where it goes into the air box.

Good idea. About ready to put Kool-Aid in cooling system and have to drain and flush it. By the way what does it take too make the fan come on? Gramps
 
Good info guys we will be checking over the TC tomorrow when we install the adj. fuel screw, thanks.
 
raisrx251;73605 said:
While you are at it check your water pump impeller nut as well. If you don't feel safe doing it have your dealer. I see today where I lost a rear fender bolt on the silencer side where it goes into the air box.
Thanks for the tip! Just checked my fender bolts and two were loose. The one in the same place you described would not have made it through another ride! :thumbsup::notworthy:

Would you mind describing the impeller tightening process with a bit of detail?
 
Yeah they are a strange bolt too, 5mm.

On the impeller mine was not loose but it was not that tight either. You have to drain your coolant and then on the left hand side of the motor by the valve cover, that is where your water pump lives. It is easier to lay the bike on its right side doing this job. You remove the coolant hose and the allen bolts that hold it onto the side of the motor. The entire assembly will want to come off the bike and there are two paper gaskets so be careful when splitting it open. I do not have a picture of it but if you want me to e-mail me the parts manual just let me know. It is on page 70 in the parts manual and the nut is number 9 on the diagram. I used some brake clean/compressed air on the shaft and nut and made sure it was dry and then added some loc-tite to the nut and tightened it down. Let the bike sit for a hour or two as well would not hurt. There is supposed to be a tech bulletin on this I believe.
 
buttstock;73619 said:
By the way what does it take too make the fan come on? Gramps

Let it idle forever, This bike does not seem to get hot. i thought maybe mine did not work until one day doing the EFI and I had it idling for a long time and it finally came on. I have never had it overheat when riding it even on big long hills where a KTM was spewing its coolant.
 
Motosportz;73723 said:
Let it idle forever, This bike does not seem to get hot. i thought maybe mine did not work until one day doing the EFI and I had it idling for a long time and it finally came on. I have never had it overheat when riding it even on big long hills where a KTM was spewing its coolant.
The fan on my '08 TE 250 never came on during a ride, even in 90+ degree heat while all around me the Pumpkins are puking coolant like drunks on rubbing alcohol. I thought my fan circuit was defective, so finally, I did what Kelly did and along with help from a heat gun, I got it to turn on! My 2010 TC hasn't seen 90+ degrees yet, but she'll idle in the garage for 30+ minutes while hot and not even burp. :notworthy:
 
Lets start a check list (feel free to add your issues) 2010 Te250

1) Front engine mounting bolts came loose
2) very little grease in linkage
3) The 5mm side panel screw at rear seam to get cross threaded
 
raisrx251;73716 said:
Yeah they are a strange bolt too, 5mm.

On the impeller mine was not loose but it was not that tight either. You have to drain your coolant and then on the left hand side of the motor by the valve cover, that is where your water pump lives. It is easier to lay the bike on its right side doing this job. You remove the coolant hose and the allen bolts that hold it onto the side of the motor. The entire assembly will want to come off the bike and there are two paper gaskets so be careful when splitting it open. I do not have a picture of it but if you want me to e-mail me the parts manual just let me know. It is on page 70 in the parts manual and the nut is number 9 on the diagram. I used some brake clean/compressed air on the shaft and nut and made sure it was dry and then added some loc-tite to the nut and tightened it down. Let the bike sit for a hour or two as well would not hurt. There is supposed to be a tech bulletin on this I believe.

I had one back out, which toasted the impeller, which caused it to overheat, which blew a head gasket & did some piston damage. $700+ later all fixed. I actually rode for a whole day on fire type roads with no impeller/waterpump. Check that impeller nut!

Cheers
 
Motosportz;73723 said:
Let it idle forever, This bike does not seem to get hot. i thought maybe mine did not work until one day doing the EFI and I had it idling for a long time and it finally came on. I have never had it overheat when riding it even on big long hills where a KTM was spewing its coolant.

Great, one less thing to worry about. Now all I need is a bigger tank?
Thanks Kelly
 
Hi guys, I've got a '09 TE-510 and I've had my fan come on lots of times. Not while I am cruising along a gravel road, but working hard in the bush or on a tight technical trail etc... I found it hard to see if it was on or not (black fan blades in black housing etc) so I used a paint stick and put a little yellow line on the fan blades. When I look down now if I see the lines it is off, if I see a yellow blurr it is on. Seems to work. Actually, I may even wire in a little warning light that will come on when fan is on. I seem to like to know this data... Never had an issue and as soon as I get out of the tight stuff and start cruising again it goes off right away.

Cheers Pete
 
I've notice that any bolt I've removed has had no loctite on them at all. I did notice the other day that the bike was vibrating a lot more than normal and so I checked the engine mounting bolts and they to were way loose. I'm guessing this isn't part of quality control inspections.
 
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