• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Curious who has the most miles so far!

The coolant smells the same as in the jug it came in....I just tested lucky me on that. One more thing off the big checklist
 
I wonder if a cooler plug would help with pre ignition? NGK makes a cooler plug part number 4706 mar10a-j. It is two steps cooler listed in the temp chart. They only make our plugs in two temps a 9 and 10. Both are listed for Ducati's. I might call their tech department and see what they say.
 
tweber- So Ogre-fl and I removed spark plugs noticed they were out of spec mine were .001 out of the max tolerance on one side of both plugs the other side with in tolerance. Since neither one of us had the new spark plugs we put them back in and did a ecu reset. Seemed to solve the problem. Maybe coil or boot not tight. I did use anti seize and electric silicon grease on the boot. Doubt that changed any thine either. Does confirm that the spark plugs might need to be changed before 10k miles since the double ground plugs are hard to adjust. You are supposed to change when out of spec. I think ogre-fl was able to adjust his? My plug looked exactly the same as the one mag posted.

Baddrapp might be onto some thing with the cooler plug. Maybe less warpage of the ground?
 
Riding Again said:
tweber- So Ogre-fl and I removed spark plugs noticed they were out of spec mine were .001 out of the max tolerance on one side of both plugs the other side with in tolerance. Since neither one of us had the new spark plugs we put them back in and did a ecu reset. Seemed to solve the problem. Maybe coil or boot not tight. I did use anti seize and electric silicon grease on the boot. Doubt that changed any thine either. Does confirm that the spark plugs might need to be changed before 10k miles since the double ground plugs are hard to adjust. You are supposed to change when out of spec. I think ogre-fl was able to adjust his? My plug looked exactly the same as the one mag posted.

Baddrapp might be onto some thing with the cooler plug. Maybe less warpage of the ground?
Click to expand...


Out of curiosity, and science... Did you mark each plug and get them back in the same hole?

I ask, because I am curious as to the indexing. Swapping plugs may have changed the position of the grounds. When you get the new plugs and change them, can you mark the old ones before you take em out? By marking, just get a sharpie, and make a line on the outboard side of each plug. Then when they are out, notice where the wire ground of the electrode is facing on the center and outboard plugs.

You mentioned one side on each was burned a bit more, which side in reference to engine position? Was the burned side of both plugs facing the same direction? Should we go to a single ground electrode? Obviously, the spark is only jumping to one side. WHY?

I'm waiting on my new plugs, I will run the mar9a-j because my plug color looks perfect. I found some copper washers at AutoZone that I can use to index the plugs. Million Dollar stumble question is, which way to index. Wire ground toward the intake or open side to intake?
 
Riding Again said:
tweber- So Ogre-fl and I removed spark plugs noticed they were out of spec mine were .001 out of the max tolerance on one side of both plugs the other side with in tolerance. Since neither one of us had the new spark plugs we put them back in and did a ecu reset. Seemed to solve the problem. Maybe coil or boot not tight. I did use anti seize and electric silicon grease on the boot. Doubt that changed any thine either. Does confirm that the spark plugs might need to be changed before 10k miles since the double ground plugs are hard to adjust. You are supposed to change when out of spec. I think ogre-fl was able to adjust his? My plug looked exactly the same as the one mag posted.

Baddrapp might be onto some thing with the cooler plug. Maybe less warpage of the ground?
Click to expand...
Thanks alot....will get new in there as soon as possible.
 
I find it interesting almost all of the new Ducati's use the cooler plug except for the multistrada uses our plug. I wonder if ducati had anything to do with engineering of our heads?
 
I did put the plugs back in the same spots they came out of. I did not check the positioning of the plug to see which side was out of tolerance. Although it does not look like they are burned. It looks like the heat warps them. Both sides had same amount of materiel just one side further from the post. Same thing Ogre_FL found
 
If they look like the heat is warping the electrodes we can go to the mar10. On NGK heat chart it has 9, 9.5, and 10. They only make the 9 and 10 with the current style dual electrode plug. On NGK chart they list these plugs as low on the durability. It recommends life of 0-30000 miles.
 
22.000KM . much more vibrations, but not worry. i did not change sparks still. I come to think it is a adjust valves problem. still 16th sprocket.
very worried about iddel stall.
 
10,000km (yes, not many yet!), had the MOSS reflash from new, but still went for a Booster Plug, which has seen zero stalls immediately since install. That is 9000 trouble free kilometres. I have the Uni Filter indtead of the oem paper, plus a oiled foam prefilter in the 'snorkle' as I serm to ride a lot ofvdustyvtrsils in summer ... welcome to Australia. Happy motor isnt seeing the dust my lungs do!!!
I hope to do an average 10000 per year, so hope to have my Terra for another 20 years!
 
Thought I'd bump this one up again for a timely sit rep on how many miles / kms we've done on our TRs and any significant issues experienced. I know many around here have several tens of thousands of miles / kms with generally few problems. It appears that the upgraded Rotax is proving to be a durable and reliable engine. My bike is only a few months old so no significant mileage to report. So over to you...
 
I just currently hit 14k miles. No significant problems other than bad chain and chasing out some extra vibes. Also changed out to a cooler spark plug MAR10A-J. Maintenance wise changed oil about 6 times. Front tire just this weekend. Rear tire twice. Replaced front wheel bearings just to ensure no problems later and when I get this second rear replaced shortly will do the rear wheel bearings. Have the 3d air filter mod and will replace when I get the valves adjusted.
 
mag00 said:
I made the mistake of buying bosch plus 4 plugs once, never again. They were warranteed and still would not replace them. Less than 1000 miles and dead.

I found a place that has the NGK for $14. I have not done business with them, so check em out good.

Spark plugs on sale @ http://ca-cycleworks.com/ngk-mar9a-j-spark-plug
I was looking for a cross reference to something else, just in case the ngk don't like the Terra High comp. Wonder what the beemer guys are using in the dual plug 650.
Click to expand...


Purchased this NGK-mar9a plug from ca-cycleworks, prompt delivery, no problems. I have 4650 +- bone stock, no problems so far, 2 new mitas 07 tires
 
10,000 miles so far. I have replaced the chain and the right rear wheel seal in the cush hub assembly. The chain was my own fault for washing the bike and putting it away without lubing it when it dried. Then I brought it outside to make some room in the shop to work on a couple days that it had rained. That sealed its fate and locked up a couple links. I lost the seal due to a lot of mud riding. It is a very solid bike. I had a 2007 GS650 that I bought brand new and went through 2 fork seals and a water pump before 10K. This bike was a massive upgrade from the GS. I have done no engine modifications. Nada, nothing, and the bike runs great. I run 91 octane fuel. When I ran 93 octane on a recent Idaho trip, the bike had massive preignition. I ran 3 tanks of 93 octane and as soon as I went back to 91 when I left the state, it ran perfect again.

I should mention that I only use this bike for adventure trips. I don't do any running around or commuting on it. When it leaves the garage it is fully loaded, goes a very long ways and gets beat on pretty good.
 
That is interesting on the 91 octane. Do you have ethanol in the gas you use? I use 93 with 10% ethanol. All you can get here in Florida. You can get non ethanol for boats though but not higher grades just 87.
 
17,000 klm so far and burns no oil. New chain. New standard plugs at 11,000 virtually fixed the stalling problem. All the rest has been routine. The TR is a great way to commute and have fun also, the more you use it the more you save $ on running a car. (stating the obvious)
Reinstalled the booster plug for summer riding, at a cost of some performance. Did the pod mod, another performance hit!... No more power wheelies :(But all good tho:)
Here in OZ, it's hard to find a high octane ethanol blend. With low grade ethanol fuel the terra runs like a hairy goat, occasionally back firing into the air box. So its best left for the tin tops.
 
Did you use the PVC elbow or the Silicone elbow in the POD mod install. The PVC elbow restricts airflow and that could affect performance.
 
I used the silicone elbow 57mm/2.25", two in fact after botching the first one!

I guess a performance hit was to be expected, pull the trigger and the first few gulps of free air are now gone, or like going from an 8 litre air box to a pod. Still, I'm not sorry for doing this mod, at least now I dont start stressing every time I ride into a dust cloud. "for petes sake"

Thanks Dave re: video &

Thanks Charlie re: thread index
 
I was at a rally yesterday chatting to davorallyfan from ADVrider (not on cafehusky so I'll answer for him) who has about 30,000km (18,000 miles) on his Terra with no issues to date. Mine clicked over 16,000km (10,000 miles) with no problems after the original ECU was replaced when the bike was still brand new.
 
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