• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Custom Ratios for Gearbox

The 250's have different primary gears. The gearbox ratios are identical for the full range. The primary gears for the 250/310 are the same. The 450 and 510's both have different primary gears. I was trying to convey that the 610's gearbox was much better suited to longer trips (my opinion). That is why I have two bikes. And yes I've ridden all of them.
 
Husky changed the primary gear ratio (crankshaft to clutch) from 64/21 to 63/23 in 2006 on the bigger bikes.

Not sure if this is accurate for a 2011 TE250

Primary: (17/54) 3.176

..................................................................... 1st 2.142 (30/14)
..................................................................... 2nd 1.750 (28/16)
..................................................................... 3rd 1.450 (29/20)
..................................................................... 4th 1.227 (27/22)
..................................................................... 5th 1.041 (25/24)
..................................................................... 6th 0.884 (22/27)


Secondary drive sprockets .....
3.076 (13/40)
 
Made it to Las Vegas. Quite a few overheats over the 400 miles. Bike is getting trailered home now.

What happens when it overheats? Something isn't right with your 510 and I don't think the gearing is causing the problem you are experiencing. .
 
Since you have never been down the Deadhorse trail in WI I'll forgive your ignorance. Logs..LOL... try 1.5' diameter boulders hidden under a few feet of muddy water along with 1' deep ruts that you can not see for 50 miles. Take a trip out to WI so I've got someone to ride with down this trial. Don't know many if any that will attempt it on anything other than a big tired quad. Maybe you missed my previous posts but I don't like the 15/45 because it kills power and acceleration above 75 mph. I tested it out on a 600 mile ride one weekend and haven't used it since.

IMG_1460.jpg






maybe a little no track would be better?

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Relax man......It may come across as ignorance, but lot's of places have trails like that(not trying to discount here). We certainly have more than our share in this part of the world & I've certainly spent my fair share of time on them. Their tough in their own way. Other types are tough in other ways.
Anyways, back to regularly scheduled programming...........
 
I never suggested gearing to be the problem to our overheating. There's no relation. We're getting off track to this thread. I'll highlight, so that we can then continue with gearing :

We now have the HUGE Safari tank (about 4.5 gallons / 16-17 litres) which really cuts back on the air flow through the radiators. So, we installed the Fluidyne radiators and high volume water pump. The overheating that we are experiencing is all low speed in brutal desert heat (slow through rocks and sand).

I don't yet have diagnostic or data logging capability on the bike to give hard numbers, but intend to do that. I will probably next get the oil cooler functioning, and add a fan to the left radiator (two fans total), use the 190 degree switching discussed elsewhere in the forum, and put a "cowling" (I think it's called a shroud in automobile speak) around the backside of the radiator to the fans for maximum air / heat extraction.

Finally, we're going to switch out the Cool Aide coolant for the Evans 360F boiling point fluid (at atmospheric pressure). If this doesn't get us where I want to be when we start testing in 120F heat this summer, we'll put on the "Autotune" fuel computer and make sure we've got a plenty rich mixture for cooling.

Now, again, my gearing concerns are the same as MANY other North American riders (and probably Aussie's too) would prefer on a Husky, and that is a wider ratio gear box, or a 7th gear (which I don't think is even a remote possibility).
 
You never have mentioned what gearing you are running during your tests yet and if you have tested your top speed on dirt? What type of fuel are you running? octane rating? ethanol? How are you navigating your test rides without GPS?

I've found with the 15/47 combo I could just about cruise at 70 mph, dependent on rear tire diameter, with the engine turning 6K RPM. It is at this RPM that the engine is just starting to really build on horsepower and torque. I consider anything under 6K RPM as very safe and not impacting the durability of the engine for long term use as I have experienced with mine at 8K miles and yet to need a valve lash adjustment. With the 15/47 you only sacrafice a bit over 1 mph crawl speed over the stock 13/47 gearing however you will loose acceleration.

I would not hesitate to run 1000 miles on a fresh engine build with 15/47 gearing running allot of WOT without any worry of durability issues. That is assuming you are running "good" fuel, accurate fuel metering and fresh cleaned air filters with proper oiling and grease seal.
 
You never have mentioned what gearing you are running during your tests yet and if you have tested your top speed on dirt? What type of fuel are you running? octane rating? ethanol? How are you navigating your test rides without GPS?


Stock gearing, 13/47. We're not doing any high speed stuff now. Running pump premium, and will do two things next. Probably lower the compression slightly, and up the fuel to VP something mega octane.

No GPS.


I've found with the 15/47 combo I could just about cruise at 70 mph, dependent on rear tire diameter, with the engine turning 6K RPM. It is at this RPM that the engine is just starting to really build on horsepower and torque. I consider anything under 6K RPM as very safe and not impacting the durability of the engine for long term use


We obviously have no choice, currently, other than 15/4x gearing combo for the actual event. I'm not counting on a resolution to gearing.


I would not hesitate to run 1000 miles on a fresh engine build with 15/47 gearing running allot of WOT without any worry of durability issues. That is assuming you are running "good" fuel, accurate fuel metering and fresh cleaned air filters with proper oiling and grease seal.


In addition, we'll be running the SMR counter balance (with welded gear). We'll still have to make sure that we've countered the Safari tanks issues with cooling.
 
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