Dead Spot About 3000 RPM Under Light Load

[Leo Fisher]

After taking the time to let the bike warm up to temperature before getting on it - the MOSS readjustment appears to have helped. At least the bike isn't wanting to die. Time will tell. Just thinking if the warranty would still be in force with all the little mods, spoofers, temp readjustment items etc?

 

[MadDogTR]

"Just thinking if the warranty would still be in force with all the little mods, spoofers, temp readjustment items etc?"

The only time a new vehicle warranty can be voided is if an aftermarket part has been installed and it can be proven that it is responsible for a warranty claim. However, a vehicle manufacturer or dealership cannot void a warranty simply because an an aftermarket equipment has been installed on a vehicle.

In other words, if your frame cracks, it can't be blamed on your spoofer and the warranty must be honored. If your engine blows up, the dealer or manufacturer would have to PROVE that it was the fault of the spoofer in order to deny the claim.

See: Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act

 

[NorthnTerraTory]

That plug in thing with a wire off it in the exhaust pipe under your left shin. It's particularly obvious on this particular bike.

Well I don't have to disconnect the Lambda sensor now. My dog did it for me!



Not a happy camper!

 

[bluegopher]

Holy crap! Bad dog! Looks like Fido is a little jealous of his master's toys. Time to give Seat Concepts a call. Sorry about your luck.

 

[NorthnTerraTory]

Holy crap! Bad dog! Looks like Fido is a little jealous of his master's toys. Time to give Seat Concepts a call. Sorry about your luck.

Yeah, been looking at a higher seat. Do they do a complete seat or just the inner. Would I have to get it covered somewhere else?

 

[bluegopher]

Yeah, been looking at a higher seat. Do they do a complete seat or just the inner. Would I have to get it covered somewhere else?

I believe you can send them your entire seat and they'll do the entire job for something like $20 extra. I forget the exact cost. Or you can just order the foam and take care of it yourself. HighFive did a great write up on his seat replacement. I think it may be over on the ADV site though. Check it out.

 

[NorthnTerraTory]

I believe you can send them your entire seat and they'll do the entire job for something like $20 extra. I forget the exact cost. Or you can just order the foam and take care of it yourself. HighFive did a great write up on his seat replacement. I think it may be over on the ADV site though. Check it out.

Yeah, I've seen that, but he used the original material and as you can see, mines been butchered.

 

[Wolftrax]

Yeah, been looking at a higher seat. Do they do a complete seat or just the inner. Would I have to get it covered somewhere else?

SC sends you new foam and the cover. Installation is a snap if you have a power stapler.

 

[NorthnTerraTory]

SC sends you new foam and the cover. Installation is a snap if you have a power stapler.

Thanks mate, I just had a look at their website. I think f or the cost of sending them my seat from oz, I could buy a stapler anyway. I will order one tonight I think.

 

[mag00]

Well I don't have to disconnect the Lambda sensor now. My dog did it for me!

View attachment 32534 View attachment 32535

Not a happy camper!

Wowsa, sorry to see that. Next time take Fluffy with Heal fast


PS. Don't think that is covered under warranty.

 

[nev..]

Thanks mate, I just had a look at their website. I think f or the cost of sending them my seat from oz, I could buy a stapler anyway. I will order one tonight I think.

You can probably find an upholsterer who already has the equipment who could do the job for you for less than the cost of a stapler you might not have any other use for.

 

[Scutler]

Just to preface this; I have experienced this "dead spot" and sputtering off idle. I have no spoofers or have had the MOSS update. I did delete the smog cannister.

Well, big smile on my face this morning. I ran the Terra's battery dead the other day when I left the key in the on position (yeah I'm an idiot lol). It took two days to charge the battery completely. This morning I connected the now charged battery and let the bike run for about 20 minutes (did not touch the throttle). On the way to work today I noticed a big improvement. No "dead spot" or off-idle sputtering on my 15 minute commute. The temperature this morning was about 32 degrees F.

If the bike changes its characteristics I'll update you guys.

 

[maecki]

This morning I connected the now charged battery and let the bike run for about 20 minutes (did not touch the throttle). On the way to work today I noticed a big improvement. No "dead spot" or off-idle sputtering on my 15 minute commute. The temperature this morning was about 32 degrees F.

Sounds like a spark of hope for me.
I have the same problem with my Terra from the moment temperatures here in Germany have dropped to autumnal 50-60 degree F.

Doesn't seam to like starting as before in summer and dies often when opening the throttle after idling. I find this quite dangerous since it happened more than once after pulling out to the main road. No fun being left standing whithin heavy traffic.

So I will try giving her a real warm up as you did, perhaps it gives me a hint where to further search for this fault. The last two weeks I mostly used her for commutimg, didn't get her warm since its only about 15 KM...

Maecki

 

[nev..]

Sounds like a spark of hope for me.
I have the same problem with my Terra from the moment temperatures here in Germany have dropped to autumnal 50-60 degree F.

Doesn't seam to like starting as before in summer and dies often when opening the throttle after idling. I find this quite dangerous since it happened more than once after pulling out to the main road. No fun being left standing whithin heavy traffic.

Maecki,

The stalling issue you describe can be fixed by installing one of the available booster plugs which are available commercially or can be made yourself if you have the time and patience. Search through the forum looking for threads discussing these plugs and you will find the solution you seek. eg http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/booster-plug.29060/

 

[maecki]

Maecki,

The stalling issue you describe can be fixed by installing one of the available booster plugs which are available commercially or can be made yourself if you have the time and patience. Search through the forum looking for threads discussing these plugs and you will find the solution you seek. eg http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/booster-plug.29060/

Thanks nev...,

But I already knew about these.
Made an appointement with my dealer for next week, I' ll see what he has to say about the issue.
If he is as clueless as I fear, I will probably look for a bp...

Maecki

 

[Scutler]

Just to preface this; I have experienced this "dead spot" and sputtering off idle. I have no spoofers or have had the MOSS update. I did delete the smog cannister.

Well, big smile on my face this morning. I ran the Terra's battery dead the other day when I left the key in the on position (yeah I'm an idiot lol). It took two days to charge the battery completely. This morning I connected the now charged battery and let the bike run for about 20 minutes (did not touch the throttle). On the way to work today I noticed a big improvement. No "dead spot" or off-idle sputtering on my 15 minute commute. The temperature this morning was about 32 degrees F.

If the bike changes its characteristics I'll update you guys.

It has been a week since my last post here. The bike is running better and I have not had the "dead spot" appear since. My battery was depleted which gave me the opportunity to reset my ECU. I would recommend to anyone with a "dead spot" or stalling issues who do not have a spoofer to give this a try atleast. If the "dead spot" shows up again I'll just reset the ECU by unhooking the battery overnight and letting it run for atleast 10 minutes without touching the throttle after hooking it up to the battery again.

I thought I'd share my results. Who knows it may just be a fluke

 

[spiderman]

I had a similar experience. When it started running bad I unhooked the battery for about 2 minutes then reconnected. It ran great for about a week or two then started doing the old stuff again. I wasn't able to duplicate it a second time but I only unhooked it briefly. This evening I disconnected and will let it sit for overnight at least. I'll see if this makes a difference. Thanks Scutler for your input.

 

[spiderman]

OK, that officially didn't work for me. I let it sit overnight disconnected then tried it again. Still running bad at 3k or so. For what it's worth, my bike was Mossed on delivery and I installed a Wuka about 4 months ago.

 

[Scutler]

OK, that officially didn't work for me. I let it sit overnight disconnected then tried it again. Still running bad at 3k or so. For what it's worth, my bike was Mossed on delivery and I installed a Wuka about 4 months ago.

Seems like spoofers are the solution for now. Thanks for sharing.

 

[PaulC]

I guess I will learn about the function of the o2 sensor.

Sensor output ranges from 0.2 volts (lean) to 0.8 volts (rich). A perfectly balanced or "stoichiometric" fuel mixture of 14.7 parts of air to 1 part of fuel gives an average reading of around 0.45 volts.

Observing the sensor’s waveform on a scope is a good way to see whether or not it is slowing down with age. If the sensor becomes sluggish, it can create hesitation problems during sudden acceleration. http://www.picoauto.com/applications/lambda-sensor.html

Seems like looking into the sensor mod, might provide a better solution.

My dyno run shows my bike going rich at just under 5k rpm. If I spoof to get rich on low, it will get richer on the higher rpm also.

If we replace the sensor to one with a narrow band, I think the lean low, and fat high could be remedied.

For argument, let's use the voltage curve above as the stock TR650 specs. If a lean is .2 volts, and fat is .8 volts, we might get a remedy with a .3-.7 volt range sensor. Fattening up the low end, and leaning the top end.

Since this is my first look into this, more information and discussion could benefit the TR owners.

My dyno guy said if I lean out my bike, I can gain 4-5 hp on the top. And get better mileage.

I also read about two different types of sensors, titania and zirconia, and have no idea why or what the difference is.

Any reasons why or why not this would work?

Thanks for sharing this information on the picoauto website
The article goes on to suggest possible causes for the lambda to get sluggish and also fail. For example using the wrong silicones!! or high mileage engines that burn oil
I don't think spoofing will accelerate/cause this?? may be. Ethanol?
A .3-.7 volt range makes sense
Very interesting