• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Dead Strada

bikesparky said:
Dielectric grease is indeed and insulator, and it's not a contact but a connector.
The pins still make contact regardless of the grease. The function of the grease is to stop moisture getting in and prevent contact in between pins due to the moisture.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks bikesparky. I misunderstood what you had written. All good now.:thumbsup:
 
bikesparky said:
Dielectric grease is indeed and insulator, and it's not a contact but a connector.
The pins still make contact regardless of the grease. The function of the grease is to stop moisture getting in and prevent contact in between pins due to the moisture.
Click to expand...


WD 40 works for me !
 
bikesparky said:
Take appart every electrical connector, especially the ones to and from ecu, tps, ans clean with contact cleaner.
If you find "green" ones use some find sand paper or a small brass wire brush to clean.
Dry out with compressed air and lube with dielectric grease.
Click to expand...


sussurf said:
TR's will run on 1 plug, but very poorly, hot or cold.
Guess how I know?
It sounds unlikely as you have checked already but make doubly sure the coil connectors are well & truly home over the plugs & at the clip-on connector.
Click to expand...


Mark_H said:
WD 40 works for me !
Click to expand...


Thanks for all the replies and ideas, guys :cheers:
The shop guys got a bit desperate and wanted the bike out of the place and gone...the former AUS importer's Nat. Service/ Warranty Manager also wanted to get rid of the issue as they are handing over the whole TR-headache to KTM-Australia in a couple of weeks....so they followed a couple of my hunches related to the issue of running fine as long as on choke/ cold settings...but falling over when switching across to warm/ normal settings.

The GREAT news: the bike is running fine!!
The bad news: I still don't know EXACTLY what the issue was.

They cleaned the stepper motor, which didn't have much crud on it....and they replaced the CO2 sensor (lambda sensor) at the same time. The bike hasn't missed a beat since!!!:applause:
Which one of the 2 did the trick?? No idea, but I'm fairly certain of the CO2 sensor.
The sensor is also the easier of the 2 to get to and swap over quickly (if another suitable sensor can be sourced).
No doubt it would have shown up right away IF the bike could've been hooked up to an OSS session....which will still be pie-in-the-sky-stuff for some time to come until some dealers adopt the full KTM diagnostics.

The current sensor used is from a Husky 449/511, cut and spliced into the wiring.
Somehow the idle is more solid and stable than it ever was.
Haven't ridden the bike beyond taking it around the block yet.

Geeza also posted me an OEM sensor which I'll hang onto for a week or 2, just to make sure.
A HUGE thanks, mate...and great to see the few and far-flung Aussie owners sticking together, helping eachother to keep their bikes going.
I'm sure that'll become the primary resource for everyone involved pretty soon....and I'd love to invite the Kiwis/ Malaysians/ West-Coast-Yanks and anyone else in the Asia/ Pacific "neighbourhood" to join in. In order to keep those bikes running we'll need each other, no question!

Thanks to all for looking into this thread, at this stage it looks like a Happy Ending!
Hope it'll be all ride-reports and pics from hereon in....:cheers:
 
Great news!

It could be worthwhile for anyone having similar issues to either replace the sensor or try the O2 sensor eliminator plug as supplied with a Powercommander.
They are easy to make with a few resistors.
 
bikesparky said:
Great news!

It could be worthwhile for anyone having similar issues to either replace the sensor or try the O2 sensor eliminator plug as supplied with a Powercommander.
They are easy to make with a few resistors.
Click to expand...


From what I know (could be wrong) this ONLY works together with a PC, not as a standalone.
ECU doesn't work well with constant input values.
 
glitch_oz said:
From what I know (could be wrong) this ONLY works together with a PC, not as a standalone.
ECU doesn't work well with constant input values.
Click to expand...

You could be right. Some do and some don't. I know certain kawasakis have the same controle system. When the ECU detect a constant value from the O2 sensor it trows up a fault code.
On the other hand, Italian Huskies, KTM and others no problem.
 
bikesparky said:
Can I suggest something that might fix your issues. It is a bit of work but could be well worth doing.
Take the seat, tank etc off as if you do a normal service.
Take appart every electrical connector, especially the ones to and from ecu, tps, ans clean with contact cleaner.
If you find "green" ones use some find sand paper or a small brass wire brush to clean.
Dry out with compressed air and lube with dielectric grease.

I done a few bikes recently with issues that nobody could diagnose and all it needed was this.
If your bike packs out after a good wash or ride in the rain, you can almost put money on it that one of these connectors has moisture in it.

The ecu relies on low voltage signals to work and the tiniest amount of water will stuff it up, take my word for it!
Click to expand...

I prefer Lanolin, can be sprayed on, it's "wicking" properties it ensures that all joints are improved
 
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