Diagnosis help - 2010 TE 510

[Mr Sleazy]

Hey Cafe'ers:

I have a 2010 510 with about 3000 km, bought new back in June.

Has been a good bike, but with some quirks lately. Would like help with diagnosis here.

Rode bike Vancouver to Whistler on hwy last week on Wed, bike quit completely on highway. Stalled at side of road, could hear no pump cycle when key turned. Turned over fine, lots of batt power, wouldn't start or even cough.

Bike still under warranty, so called BCAA (same as AAA) towed home, took to dealer, warranty service next day. Dealer diagnosis - loose connection on fuel pump, re-connected, good to go. Bike starts fine and runs well.

Took the bike out on Thursday evening. After 30 mins of riding, bike is warmed up and following symptoms:

1. Fail code on dash when turned off and re-started.
2. Running fairly hot. Not boiling but warmer than would be expected.
3. Loses power intermittently from 50% to 0% throttle. Wide open is fine, idle is fine, but throttle from 1 to 50% (approx) and it dies (doesn't quite stall but almost) then after a couple seconds surges full on.
4. When bike is shut down and allowed to cool, starts and runs fine with no fail code.

Next day, out for another ride with same symptoms as above, PLUS the following:

1. Riding at steady throttle on the hwy, bike loses power then surges back. If I crack the throttle WFO it goes fine, or cut it to engine brake, goes fine, then after a minute or 2 same symptom returns.
2. Fail code on dash.

Bike still under warranty so no worries there, I am booked in for the dealer to work it over and so far they have been OK if a little slow to check out the bike. Bike is pretty close to unrideable right now, and dangerous in traffic because of the sudden loss of power.

My theory is a faulty fuel pump. These are same symptoms I had with clogged petcock on last bike. I know it could also be an issue with FI tuning, but why would that suddenly appear, and come on intermittently?

What do you think? Would like to try to steer the dealer techs in the right direction, they are fine but not as motivated as me to see this thing running perfect.

Oh it also developed a leak in right rad, replaced under warranty...

Finicky little redhead.

 

[craigs449]

I agree, the fuel pump sounds f=ed up...

 

[Jrmobb]

IS the bike in stock forum or did you install the power up kit?

Power up kit is needed badly, stock forum the bike is very lean and choked up

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

If its showing the fail code- newtral light blinking, hooking up to Ibeat will solve the mystery fairly quickly. Could be the coolant temp sensor. Also, the way its running sounds like a mixture problem which could be: Ibeat settings, air leak at intake manifold, or the high idle knob is being left out while riding (easy to forget).

 

[Mr Sleazy]

jrmobb -

no power up, however exhaust was uncorked, throttle stop removed, exhaust sensor removed, and FI retuned (all by dealer)

I don't want the full power up yet, I like fuel economy and it voids my warranty, which is 2 years!!! here in Canada.

HUSKYnXJnWI:

def no high idle knob! It would be nice if it were that simple...

Thanks for the replies.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

jrmobb -

no power up, however exhaust was uncorked, throttle stop removed, exhaust sensor removed, and FI retuned (all by dealer)

I don't want the full power up yet, I like fuel economy and it voids my warranty, which is 2 years!!! here in Canada.

HUSKYnXJnWI:

def no high idle knob! It would be nice if it were that simple...

Thanks for the replies.

Since you did everything in terms of power up mode by "opening it up" accept for taking out the O2 sensor and replacing with "power up resister plug" your bike is running very lean. That explains why its surging , having some running isses, and getting a little hotter than it should.

But this should not cause a failure code. (newtral light blinking for no reason) If you are getting a fail code then hooking up to Ibeat will give you a diagnosis.

 

[Klas]

Hello

Did you remove the catalysator? And just changed Noicekiller/DB killer?



If it is still there, it will run very hot.

Best Regards Klas

 

[Mr Sleazy]

HUSKYnXJnWI:

So the iBeat that the dealer will hook it up to will say the source of the failure? OK that helps, hopefully its that easy.

Klas -

Cat removed about 2 months ago, dbkiller installed 1 month ago.

 

[paul-essex]

i have just pick up a new 2010 510 and I got a problem strait away running bad then ok stalling ect ect ect so I investigated and found the problem to be the wire loom rubbed though on the top of the trotal body thay have changed the loom wrap from a hard plastic to weeker tape

 

[Mr Sleazy]

Update

Diagnosis complete, problem solved.

It was the jumper that goes in place of the lead to the oxy sensor on the pipe. This had a loose connection, so that the bike (when warm) thought the oxy sensor was still in place.

Soldered connection problem solved.

 

[danbartol]

So in essence you have done the full power-up on the bike?!?!?

 

[Mr Sleazy]

So in essence you have done the full power-up on the bike?!?!?

Sort of.....

Here is what was done.

1. Remove o2 sensor and jumper the o2 plug
2. Remove cannister and smog stuff
3. Remove throttle stop
4. Adjust EFI mapping
5. Remove cat from muffler.

All done (except cat removal) by dealer before purchase. Our canadian bikes have a 2 year warranty which is very cool, and I don't want to risk messing with that..... My understanding is that the bike is not currently in "race mode" as far as mapping goes.

I understand the official "Power up" comes with a pipe and a new ECU? I don't need that, bike is now fine as is, except it really likes to slurp fuel.....

I would like to try out the map switch at some point next spring, hoping the sel2 map will give a bit better fuel economy. My rides are often long distance and an extra km or 2 per litre will really help. Aqualine tank is ordered, but keeps getting pushed back by delays....

 

[ScottyR]

Your bike is officially powered up. The second you plug the jumper into the wiring harness it tells the ECU to go to competition mode. The ECU stores the code in it and it cant be taken out.

Your warranty is still good, but you now need to follow the service schedule for "race use" in order for the warranty to be valid.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

If you put in the o2 brass plug instead of the o2 sensor in the exhaust and installed the resister plug into the harness- you are in Powerup mode in regards to : warantee issues. I am confused by your description if the cat is in or out.

There is a separate ECU and PIPE that "can' be purchased- BUT that is not the "official" power up mode or kit that is the factory hardparts kit.

Sounds like you are in power up mode`?. You did not list putting the air filter cage in inplace of the canister restrictor. You also did not list taking out the throttle stop. I assume you did those and just didn't list them. But if you didn't there's alot more to explore in terms of power available.

 

[Mr Sleazy]

OK thanks for the info.

Cat is out of the exhaust. Just based on pure weight thats a good thing to do that thing is a brick.

Throttle stop is removed as well.

If I don't seem as informed about this stuff as I should its because the power up mods were done by the dealership before purchase, I haven't bothered with any power mods except for the cat removal.

Will make sure to keep up with maintenance to still have the warranty in place. Kind of nice that dealing with bike problems is someone else's responsibility.....

Only other "performance" mod I did was a Rekluse Pro and left hand brake, that kicks ash. Rest of the bike mods are protection stuff like skid, radguards handguards etc.